RB Concept Engine Thread
 

Hi guys

as many of you may or may not know RB Concept went through a transition as the end of last year and the first part of this year. We have been up and running here in the USA since the first of February and have been doing our best to get back in touch with all of our dealers that lost touch with us during our transition period.

My name is Kevin Wiese and i work for RB Products France handling their tech support and aftersales support here in the USA. I wanted to let people know that if there are ever any technical questions anyone would like answered i will do my best to help anyone out that needs support for our products.

While our forum at www.rbproducts.com is the best place to find FAQ and support, i understand that there are alot of people that are diehard supporters and followers of RCTECH.NET and i wanted to make sure that owners of our enginer and products know we are here to do our best backing our product.

I offer my help to those that are interested, but i would like to make it clear that i am not on here to be bashed if someone has a problem with a product of ours. There are channels for people to take if they encounter a problem with a product of ours so please keep this forum a place to ask questions. I am in daily contact with our headquarters in France and speak with Rody on a daily basis so if there is a technical question you have feel free to ask and if i do not know the answer i will ask the source for their thoughts or ideas.

Again, thank you to all of our followers and supporters

RB Inc

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Hi Kevin glad to hear we have a place to go for tech questions with the RB line.I am a die hard Rb guy for about the last 4 years after a good friend of mine Billy Bowerman introduced them to me so good luck getting things on track.

I read that the Xenon R uses the AAC piston/sleeve technology and all of the other RB engines are still ABC. Why is this and how does it affect the longevity of the piston/sleeve fit?

hello ESWLFSE

the xenonr is an AAC engine, it is the only engine in our program that uses the aluminum sleeve, all the other engines use ABC sleeve sets.

the life of the AAC xenonr motor greatly depends on how they are broken in and taken care of during their life.

the reason for the AAC design of the xenonr is power, when the engine is up to operating temp the internals are very free moving.

of all the onroad engines we offer, the xenonr is the fastest in our program, even compared to our modified RODY tuned 01006_RC. The C6RC is undoubtedly a fast engine but doesnt have the same acceleration or top speed as the xenonr

what one needs to be very careful with on the xenonr's is the operating temps, if you overheat the engine more than a few times its likely you can loose the pinch of the engine.

ABC engines are more forgiving when it comes to being overheated a time or two so for the less experienced tuner we recommend the C6RC, its plenty fast for 95% of drivers out there, but for the 5% that are looking for the ultimate weapon in their arsenal the XenonR is the way to go, take your time with its break in and make sure to preheat the engine for a few minutes before putting it on the track, but when its tuned and ready it will be a rocket ship.

the reason we have the AAC engine in the line up is beause people kept asking for something faster and faster. The XenonR uses the latest technology and materials to provide that at a reasonable cost compared to many of the other high end on road engines out there on the market

RB Inc

Dropping by to say what's up..


Chris

thank you,good to know there are guys that are willing to help. looking forward to a great relationship with RB

I just need to say it, the RB C6BB is damn kick ass!!! I should buy the C6BB7T now...

...........is an AAC engine plated with Nikasil like in 2-stroke motocross engines?........or????????

In your line of 21 offroad engines what would be the best for a truggy

hello taylorm

none of the engines in our program are nikasil plated, i spoke with the factory this morning and the liners are hard chromed and the pistons are either billet aluminum or cast aluminum but there is no coating on any part of the pistons.

hope that helps

thanks

kevin @ RB USA

hello iceman76

deciding on a truggy motor can be a toughie, i really need more info on the kind of truggy you are running, where you live, what kind of fuel you run, how big are the tracks where you live, do you want to play or race?

all of these things are importaint when it comes to choosing a motor for your kit, give me more info and i will give you a better answer

thanks

kevin @ RB USA

Kevin,

is the Xenon R still available? I can't find any retailers that have any. If it is available, what is the best pipe/manifold combo?

Thanks,
Steve

Steve you have PM

hi bsmooth....aka steve

the XenonR's are still available and will be for a long time to come, Uriah Murnan is one of the biggest buyers of that particular engine.

the guys at amain hobbies have started to buy these as well, they are looking to get involved with the onroad scene more heavily next year.

if you need to find the engines simply send me an email at [email protected] and i will put you in touch with someone that has them in stock.

thanks again

kevin @ RB USA

hi steve,

forgot about the best pipe manifold combo for it:

it all depends on the track you are runnng on, we have used the E1352_022013p setup and its worked extremely well, the mileage was awesome and the sound killer

we have also tested extensively with mark sweeney, one of our team drivers, and found the e1351_052018 pipe manifold combo to work really well also, usually provided beter bottom end but less top speed.

the 2018 pipe set can be used with our 04P, 05P and or 06P manifolds, these are all conical manifolds and the numbers represent lengths, the smaller the number the shorter the manifold and the lager the number the longer the manifold. Its importaint to have all of the manifolds if you want the best possible chance to find the right combination.

hope that helps

thanks

kevin @ RB USA

dremel boy
what are some of the things that we should be aware about with the xenon r compared to typical abc engines and how should this engine be broken in.

It does help.
Thanks Kevin

dremelboy,

I was with CRF last season, bunch of reasons force me to make a switch to another engine brand.
More than a half of our buggy guys use RB, no one has been seen in nitro sedan class though...
Could you please give a basic explanation on differences between?

- R3
- V12series
- C12series
and
- MATRIXseries

What would be the best choice if looking for:
- Cheapest price?
- Best price / performance?
- Best performance?

Br,
J.

Hello FITO

the XenonR is different than any engine you will ever run. I receive a lot of calls from people that have problems with the xenonr's because they are trying to tune them and break them in like ABC engines.

An AAC (aluminum sleeve, aluminum piston, hard chromed sleeve) motor requires a more patient and careful break in and warm up period prior to putting them on the track.

There are different theories on how to break these things in but the best thing anyone can do for themselves when going to start these engines for the first time is to have a heat gun or blow drier and preheat the motor for a short period of time to help the internal components expand evenly and relieve some of that initial pinch. The AAC motors have more taper at the top of the liner, preheating helps to relieve some of that initial pinch that will cause frequent TDC lockups

The instructions supplied with the engine are a good starting point and our website in france has great help as well, here are a few bsic links on the site that are helpful to have

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...20the%20engine
http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php?part=Support&L=En

I always suggest mounting the engine in the car and breaking it in on the chassis, i think break in benches are fine for the very experienced but its too easy to loose a finger if not properly trained or experienced with the prop method.

The first few tanks are critical to the life of the piston and sleeve, make sure to preheat, for the first tank start the engine up and let it sit and idle through an entire tank, in some cases you will need to raise the idle speed and or lean the bottom end needle a bit, this is normal so no need to woory if it needs to be adjusted.

For the next few tanks the car should be driven on the track at varying speeds, 1/4 throttle 1/2 throttle 1/8th throttle, varying the RPM's for all of the internal parts to begin cycling and seating properly. Realistically it will probably take 1/2 a gallon of fuel of varying the engine through a range of cycles, and by this i mean 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 throttle cycles, before things have seated properly. Its very importaint to keep an eye on the rear main bearings of the engine, because they are subjected to contact with nitro all the time, if you have bad fuel or improperly stored fuel it can dramatically lessen the life of your bearings so keep a very close eye out for the feel of the bearing. You should disasssmble and inspect the engine after each race day and if you hear any strange noises immidetly stop running the engine and tear it down for inspection to make sure all inside is working properly.

For that 1/2 gallon of fuel that you have used the engine and cycled it be sure there is no left over nitro fuel inside the motor if at all possible after you are done, either disassamble the engine after the end of a race day and wipe everything down or run the engine out of fuel, doing this allows the majority of left over or unburnt nitro to burn off while the engine is still warm

I have personally seen many of the XenonR's with 3-5 gallons of fuel through them before they start loosing life, but these were very carefully cared for engines. I have also seen some of the engines go after just 1 weekend because of poor maintenance and improper break in and lack of tuning experience with AAC based engines. There is no way to give you a life expectancy but i can tell you that if you do things properly and ask questions first before assuming you know what you are doing it can save you alot of time and headaches.

After that 1/2 gallon of fuel thats been run through the engine, the engine is more than likely ready to start leaning out more and more until you have the power you desire. The clutch setup on the XenonR is extremely critical and so is the pipe and manifold selection so be careful there too, but when you get a XenonR thats been run in properly, has the right pipe and manifold and clutch setup, you have in your hands one of the fastest most dangerous engines available.

Hope that helps and ust ask questions if you got them, we are here to help as best we can

regards

kevin @ RB USA

:nod::nod:

I would also like to add , that motor temp while breaking it in is very important

do not go over 200 or under 170 while breaking it in get it up to temp

then cycle it to 195 - 200 at no more then 3/4 throtle make sure to let the

motor cool down to room temp between runs . I always pre heat and

also I do not tune the motor until it is up to temp if you put the car down

on the track for the first time on race day and it is super fast right off

then it is most likey too lean to begin with ( richin it )

for those that do not know michael 1

his name is michael shing and is a "B" team driver of ours, he has had extensive experience with the xenonr motors and i have seen many of his own personal engines exceed the 3-5 gallon mark

he has spent much of his time and energy on learning the xenonr's and what makes them work and work well so many of his tips can be very useful.

thank you

kevin @ RB USA

hello janisk

to answer your questions

"dremelboy,

I was with CRF last season, bunch of reasons force me to make a switch to another engine brand.
More than a half of our buggy guys use RB, no one has been seen in nitro sedan class though...
Could you please give a basic explanation on differences between?

- R3
- V12series
- C12series
and
- MATRIXseries

What would be the best choice if looking for:
- Cheapest price?
- Best price / performance?
- Best performance?


our engines are used extensively in offroad and have won many world and national championships.

the sedan market is a very different game compared to offroad, while we would like to see more of a presence of our engines in 1/10th sedan all we can do is continue to offer a very good engine thats very capable of winning races if the engines are given a chance.

many of the guys that run sedan are either sponsored or get stuff from the sponsored guys. we do not have teams like many of the other manufacturers out there and i think this hurts us in a way.

for the engines

the C12 and the V12 engines that we have in our lineup currently are slowly being phased out. When all remaining C12 and V12 engines left in stock run out we will not produce any more, the replacement parts will be available for a long time to come however.

The push these days is the R3 motor, RODY and the guys in Europe have done extensive testing with it and according to him and the guys on the team in france the R3 is a better all around motor compared to anything we offered in the program in the past.

The R3 is actually a long stroke engine and not a short stroke engine like many of the engines in the past have been, there have been some complaints from people on the phones and the forums that the engines are not as fast as the novarossi 12 plus3ct's and a few others, but then again our R3 doesnt cost almost $500.00 street price. The goal is to provide engines to the masses at realistic prices that offer excellent performance, mileage, and parts availability.

I have seen and tested the R3 motor with both the E1751_195401 and the e1752_2611 speedline pipe of ours and each pipe manifold combo offered fuel mileage and power advantages under different track conditions and circumstances.

the internals of the engine are high end, piston is billet cnc macheined, the underside of the combustion chamber has the oring that is designed to cut down on vibration that can affect glowplug life and sleeve and piston life. The biggest secret of the R3 is the crankshaft, it uses the biturbo design thats been so famous in our .21 size engines.

one of the nicest things about this engine, and many of the other ones in our program, is that we offer it in package form with matching pipe and manifold sets, and at a cost less than an engine by itself from some of our competitors.

with the E1751_195401 pipe set has the advantage of different length manifolds being able to be used with it.

check this link out
http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...xieme=composer

this is one of the many projects the factory has been working on to help people with selecting what pipes and manifolds to use.

well i hope this bit of info helps and if you have more questions ask away

thank you

kevin @ RB USA

Kevin,

Why are the C12's being phased out? :cry::cry: They are a popular engine here in Australia and to be at the right end of the field you MUST being running a C12 otherwise you're wasting your time.

The R3's seem to have a lot of top end, however the bottom seems to suffer.

Don't get me wrong I love the RB range and have 2 x C12, 1 x V12 and 1 x Matrix. :D

dremelboy,

Thank you for a grate explanation,
It was very useful, seems that R3 is going to fill up empty space of my chassis engine mount : D

Br,
J.

hello CDS70

please dont get me wrong, both the C12 and the V12 engines are very good engines and will continue to be for many people, but as a manufacturer we need to offer our line thats competitive with our competitions engines.

the sales of the side exhaust C12 engines is almost zero, i can tell you that this year here in the USA we have sold very very few of these, but then again there really isnt a big class for use of these engines.

for the v12, it has been the workhorse .12 in our line up for a number of years now, but as with any engine, it was time for a facelift and so came the birth of the R3.

the numbers of C12's and V12's left in the inventory is still a good number but i think people should know that eventually the engines will be discontinued and phased out.

we have always tried to do our best to support any engine of ours that we have produced,so the replacement parts should be available for quite a while but the reality is that eventually you should pick up another motor if you are looking for motors to replace your older ones.

if you are in need of parts or the engines themselves, www.amainhobbies.com has always done a great job of stocking these and many of their replacement parts

hope that helps

regards

kevin @ RB USA

hello CDS70

please dont get me wrong, both the C12 and the V12 engines are very good engines and will continue to be for many people, but as a manufacturer we need to offer our line thats competitive with our competitions engines.

the sales of the side exhaust C12 engines is almost zero, i can tell you that this year here in the USA we have sold very very few of these, but then again there really isnt a big class for use of these engines.

for the v12, it has been the workhorse .12 in our line up for a number of years now, but as with any engine, it was time for a facelift and so came the birth of the R3.

the numbers of C12's and V12's left in the inventory is still a good number but i think people should know that eventually the engines will be discontinued and phased out.

we have always tried to do our best to support any engine of ours that we have produced,so the replacement parts should be available for quite a while but the reality is that eventually you should pick up another motor if you are looking for motors to replace your older ones.

if you are in need of parts or the engines themselves, www.amainhobbies.com has always done a great job of stocking these and many of their replacement parts

hope that helps

regards

kevin @ RB USA

WUZZZZZZ UPPPPPPPPPP !

Happy Holidays Kevin to you and your family. Call me.

dremelboy
can nitro cleaner be use to clean the engines after use.
when you say the engines lasted 3 to 5 gallons is that changing the conrod every gallon or two,and changing the piston and sleeve or the engine its self before changing anything to it.how often should we change the conrod piston and sleeve.
in on track performance what does the xenon lack compraed to the xenon r, what do i lose
thanks

dremelboy
can nitro cleaner be use to clean the engines after use.
when you say the engines lasted 3 to 5 gallons is that changing the conrod every gallon or two,and changing the piston and sleeve or the engine its self before changing anything to it.how often should we change the conrod piston and sleeve.
in on track performance what does the xenon lack compraed to the xenon r, what do i lose
thanks

QUOTE DREMELBOY: but then again our R3 doesnt cost almost $500.00 street price. The goal is to provide engines to the masses at realistic prices that offer excellent performance, mileage, and parts availability.

DREMELBOY, then why is your R3 going at most shop priced at $359. when the old V12 was only $259.00 why the price increase?

You are talking way before the euro started stomping our american dollar into the ground. We are doing our best to keep cost low, but some things are out of our hands. Plus we have only had a couple of price increases compared to many other manufacturers. We can only absorb it so long.

Jamie, I totally understand, I am just quoting what your sales rep is posting about pricing. The other engine companies are still cheeper than yours and they come from euro. Nova, Werks, Sirio, Ninja, JLR, REX, TOP, MAX and those prices are still lower than RB. I have run RB since RB started. .

hello YLLIB

here is just an example of what i was referring to


http://ashfordhobby.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=6

while this is just 1 example, look at the cost of the competitive race .12 engines.

robert at ashford has fantastic pricing and is very competitive with the market and i am not bashing him here by choosing his site for the prices, but i want you to see that .12 prices for good competitive engines is near $500.00 these days.

the issue with the EURO is one thats not going to change any time soon, the higher the EURO goes the higher the cost of the engines will go as well, we do our best to absorb as much as we can but at some point and time we need to pass some of the increased costs along.

hope that helps

regards

kevin @ RB USA

Here is a link I can show more that have them at this price or a little more.

http://www.speedworldraceway.com/Sto...ShowLarge=True


Where are my plugs dremelboy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you dork

i should of known it was you, wait till i see you on the track buddy, can you say FOOOOOORE :)

see ya soon dude

kevin

Beware of the "Bante Rooster"!!!:spidey:

Kevin , Hope things are well for you. and Happy Holidays, are you going to try to come down for a few race's next year? we do miss you being around.

Chris Smith

P.S. whom should I get in touch with to get RB product in bay area.?
or can I be a team driver :p:lol::sneaky:

Euro vs Dollar
 

RB's have always been great engines. I've enjoyed running many of them!! Many distributors here in the USA are running into the price issue when dealing with the devaluation of our US dollar, and it's difficult for them to swallow the price increases(no fault of there own).

In the past year, the EURO has increased in value by almost 11%. That means here in the USA when we buy EURO related products they will cost 11% more. Nice of our gov't to devalue our currency.

In other words...........this year with the current value of the EURO....... a product from Europe that cost $400.00 a year ago.........will now cost $444.00. That's just a rough example.

Sorry.......didn't want to derail the RB thread.............but people need to know why prices have been effected.