Go-Tech Engines Thread
#1352
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 430
I was at CRCRC this past weekend, and i started off running really well with the 7 port, awesome power. But by the third of fourth run, i could only get it to run for 2 minutes, kind of like low compression. at first, i thought we had missed the tune, but it kept happening. running super rich but turning 230. I thought the clutch went bad, so new springs and shoes. I ran again no better. I changed fuel tanks, lines, sealed the engine, and changed all the pipe gaskets and nothing. My last ditch effort i replaced the carb, and it was like a light switch other than not a good tune. I was happy with the engine speed wise, but dissapointed in the carb. the serial number was like 000000174. anything to worry about, or do i need to get a carb?
#1353
Pressure test the carb you may find where it was leaking. it could have been a torn carb boot. or leaking at the seam. Let us know what you find.
I think the 053 is a good match for the 7port, it sounds to me like you would be able to get quite a bit more mileage out of the 053 with a little more work setting up the tune and clutch then the JP-3.
I think the 053 is a good match for the 7port, it sounds to me like you would be able to get quite a bit more mileage out of the 053 with a little more work setting up the tune and clutch then the JP-3.
#1357
I initially ran a JP-3 on my 5 Port and it was "ok", nothing startling. I changed to an 086 Dynamite after reading the posts here and what a difference. I would recommend the 086 for the 5 Port in a buggy and also in a truggy for most tracks. If you run a really tight track with good grip then use the Dynamite 053 on the 5 Port (truggy only), it's a real stump puller combination. If the track surface goes away you might need to tame the clutch a little or go back to the 086.
I believe the 2047 is great on the 5 Port also, but value for money the Dynamite pipes are hard to beat
I believe the 2047 is great on the 5 Port also, but value for money the Dynamite pipes are hard to beat
#1358
To pressure test the carb. remove the carb from the engine and clean it up, Get some fresh fuel tubing about 6" and a dish of water. Put the fuel line on the fuel nipple. Dunk the carb into the water with your index finger and thumb covering the openings, and blow into the fuel line. You should see your throttle body pushing out and if you see any airbubbles then you know you have a leak.
#1360
#1361
I RAN A 3 PORT IN MY TRUGGY LAST WEEKEND AND IT RAN GREAT FOIR THAT TIGHT TRACK I WAS ON AND WAS A SPORT 3 PORT WITH TURBO BUTTON AND 5 PORT CARB . TOOK 7TH IN A MAIN NOT BAD FOR ME I WOULD RECOMEND A 5 PORT IN TRUGGY PLENTY OF POWER ALL OVER
#1362
To pressure test the carb. remove the carb from the engine and clean it up, Get some fresh fuel tubing about 6" and a dish of water. Put the fuel line on the fuel nipple. Dunk the carb into the water with your index finger and thumb covering the openings, and blow into the fuel line. You should see your throttle body pushing out and if you see any airbubbles then you know you have a leak.
Believe it or not but a carb can still pass this pressure test yet still have an air leak when installed on the motor.....It seems the metals in the carb can expand when it gets heat soaked and cause a air leak that will only appear when the carb is up to engine operating temps... The motor will tune and act perfectly for approximately 1 tank of fuel, after that a phantom airleak will apear as the metals in the crab get heat soaked.......
If in doupt seal the carb, testing for airleaks when the carb is cold will only tell part of the story....as the tolerances int he carb changes quite a bit as it gets up to operating temps....I have had several engines that were airtight when cold, but started leaking once they got hot... Always the same place, the seem between the metal end cap and the composite carb body
#1363
Believe it or not but a carb can still pass this pressure test yet still have an air leak when installed on the motor.....It seems the metals in the carb can expand when it gets heat soaked and cause a air leak that will only appear when the carb is up to engine operating temps... The motor will tune and act perfectly for approximately 1 tank of fuel, after that a phantom airleak will apear as the metals in the crab get heat soaked.......
If in doupt seal the carb, testing for airleaks when the carb is cold will only tell part of the story....as the tolerances int he carb changes quite a bit as it gets up to operating temps....I have had several engines that were airtight when cold, but started leaking once they got hot... Always the same place, the seem between the metal end cap and the composite carb body
If in doupt seal the carb, testing for airleaks when the carb is cold will only tell part of the story....as the tolerances int he carb changes quite a bit as it gets up to operating temps....I have had several engines that were airtight when cold, but started leaking once they got hot... Always the same place, the seem between the metal end cap and the composite carb body
#1364
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 430
i think thats where its coming from, but either my pit man sucks, or its leaking a pretty good amount of fuel.... th engine would be covreed by the end of a run... i really would like to figure it out, id hate to put this engine on the shelf as a dud
#1365
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 56
does anyone have a dino graph of the 5 or 7 port? my picco p7r evo is pissing me off that it wont stay running and i cant seem to find parts for it and if i could even afford them, so i have heard nothing but good things from go tech so might get one now that i need one. i run at realy small tracks and on a rare occasion a huge one.



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