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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

MAGPIE-121 09-19-2010 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by Do-Over (Post 7960461)
Well.... I just sold my YFZ 450 today. I got enough to pay it off, pay next months rent, and I'll have about 250 left. I have a 2013, 086 and my RTR pipe. I want to get an engine and bump box but I know I'll need a pipe was just hoping I could put it off for what I got for a couple weeks so I could get the box.... The AE comes with a POS drill start. I know 250 isn't quite enough but was hoping I could get close to that number and give the Go's a try. My other option is to get a motor that runs with the 2013 or 086.... know what I'm sayin....:(

from what you've got the 086 is your best pipe for a GO.
what brand 086 do u have ?

Do-Over 09-19-2010 07:26 PM

Dynamite... I didn't think it mattered if the numbers were the same... does it?

inferno13 09-19-2010 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by deadmancourt (Post 7960481)
the 086 is a great pipe! i hear alot of people are running those on the 5R!

i run a 053 on a small tight track and a 086 on larger track with big long straights

grizz1 09-19-2010 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by sriley (Post 7960136)
That is pretty much what was happening. I would go down the front stretch and the do a 180* turn then get on it for the big triple. When it was in the air I could hear the engine rev up.

Thanks guys.

That holding of the revs while jumping is indicative of the idle gap being too wide. That will mean the bottom end is too rich, and correspondingly the top is too lean, which is why you will be having lean bog trouble below half a tank, unless of course you have a split in the tank seam or something similar.

Go back to stock settings and tune as per instructions on our web site to ensure the idle gap is correct before you do anything else.

deadmancourt 09-19-2010 07:40 PM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7960635)
That holding of the revs while jumping is indicative of the idle gap being too wide. That will mean the bottom end is too rich, and correspondingly the top is too lean, which is why you will be having lean bog trouble below half a tank.

Go back to stock settings and tune as per instructions on our web site to ensure the idle gap is correct before you do anything else.

+1...always refer to their website or Massive Mods website!...they know their GOs...:ha:

Do-Over 09-19-2010 07:50 PM

Sriley... If you haven't heard yet AE's tanks are notorious for leaking even brand new mine did brand new first time I fired the engine up. I switched to a D8T tank. Only 11 bucks on A-Main and they have a clunk in them. Can't beat that deal. Just use a servo horn to bridge the gap on the front mount. I've seen at least 5 leaky AE tanks in the 6 months I've been racing...

Flanno 09-20-2010 06:21 AM


Originally Posted by Do-Over (Post 7960399)
Has anyone tried a 2013 on a 5R?

Yes and I loved it, tho its not an approved pipe here in OZ for sanctioned events any more.

!5min / tank @ 2009 Aus Truggy Nats in a MBX5T :D

Flanno 09-20-2010 06:25 AM

I hope to get that woman off this forum, she keeps on returning :lol:

It's time she done some exersize, crossed those legs and possibly get a B..b job :sneaky:

Flanno 09-20-2010 06:34 AM


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7960635)
That holding of the revs while jumping is indicative of the idle gap being too wide. That will mean the bottom end is too rich, and correspondingly the top is too lean, which is why you will be having lean bog trouble below half a tank, unless of course you have a split in the tank seam or something similar.

Go back to stock settings and tune as per instructions on our web site to ensure the idle gap is correct before you do anything else.

See previous post :D 11903

Ruune 09-20-2010 07:16 AM

I just wanted to take the time and congratulate Ryan Lopez and Cole Ogden on first and second place finishes in the Georgia Championship Series. The show was between Ryan and Cole for the TQ spot, with Ryan eventually winning TQ and 1st place.

Also, I would like to congratulate Daniel Ornelas for placing 2nd in buggy at the RC Pro Texas State Series last weekend.

Great job guys!

Tabushi 09-20-2010 08:11 AM

Just to share with you. I just came from the track testing the new VP PRO RS-3 Truggy pipe ... i installed on my D8T Truggy over a GO Engines GX5R .21 engine.

WOW, very pleased with the performance, but specially with the runtime. I always got about 9 1/2 and 10 minutes out of this engine on same track using 7mm insert, today after some engine tuning and changing the pipe, i ended on 7mm insert too but geting between 12 1/2 and 13 minutes with lot of consistency.


cya !!

CHOAS 09-20-2010 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by sriley (Post 7959914)
Okay guys I need a bit of direction here. I have the GX-5R and have a little tuning problem. When I run it for thr first 5 minutes or so she runs great. After that when I let off the gas it revs real bad for about 5 seconds. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

Hey Sriley, I was having the runs great until half tank then lean bog and idle issues and I was stumped.(My Go 3R ). High speed was to lean,low speed to fat,idle gap open to far. This is the place to look for good info on the Go for sure.I

I was all wrapped up in my stupid Revo yesterday and did not get a chance to see how you finished.I did watch most of the Amain but did not see the end. Some how I did not finish a single qualifier in S Buggy or MT yet pulled out the win in both in the mains.I think I should play the lottery this week:smile:

jwm2 09-20-2010 08:38 AM

Imo if you go back to stock settings you'll be richening both low and high speed needles and be even further from where you want to be. You probably aren't too far off from the sweet spot, but you will need to set the idle gap first to .8mm. After that fatten up the hsn just a little and lean the bottom end. Of course only do this after it has been properly warmed up. Then lean out the lsn an hour at a time until you get the proper throttle and idle response. Then work on the hsn until you don't get any lean bog and have plenty of good smoke. It'll take you 2-3 tanks or more to get it just right, but when you do you'll know it. The hsn is very sensitive on my go engines, alot more so than the lsn. 1/2 hour turn makes a huge difference between rich and lean settings.

deadmancourt 09-20-2010 09:29 AM


Originally Posted by jwm2 (Post 7962679)
Imo if you go back to stock settings you'll be richening both low and high speed needles and be even further from where you want to be. You probably aren't too far off from the sweet spot, but you will need to set the idle gap first to .8mm. After that fatten up the hsn just a little and lean the bottom end. Of course only do this after it has been properly warmed up. Then lean out the lsn an hour at a time until you get the proper throttle and idle response. Then work on the hsn until you don't get any lean bog and have plenty of good smoke. It'll take you 2-3 tanks or more to get it just right, but when you do you'll know it. The hsn is very sensitive on my go engines, alot more so than the lsn. 1/2 hour turn makes a huge difference between rich and lean settings.

actually you want the idle gap to be .7mm....

jwm2 09-20-2010 10:08 AM

Yeah i had .7 down at first, but ended up putting .8 because i wasn't 100% sure and .8 seemed like a nice round number.


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