We recommend not to idle on the box. This is probably the worst thing to do to an engine. No offense to your friend.

Reason for my opinion is that because of the nature of tapered sleeve ringless engines, they need to be hot in order to function properly. The internals are designed to expand with heat to create an operational piston and sleeve fit. idling on the box will not give you the heat required to get to this temp. Unless you can keep the engine at a constant 130 deg c .

if you pre heat the head constantly like this it goes against what the engine is designed to do and that is to radiate heat .. the heat source should come from the combustion process not from the outside in.

Best way to get heat into an engine is to run it on the ground. Load creates heat , it also draws more fuel and lubrication at a correct tune which engines like. And you are varying the rpm which is what an engine needs especially during run in.

Also forgot to ask, what is considered a decent running temperature for the MG66?

Wow - that's some extremes in temp you got there. On 25% I would run an O'Donnell 97T (med) plug over summer, and the O'Donnell 77T (hot) over winter. If it's real cold maybe even an OS P3 (ultra hot). Gives you an idea anyway :cool:
Running temp - anyone's guess. Every motor is different, plus different fuels, pipes, ambient conditions will all make a difference. Don't worry about the temp. If it's going hard with good exhaust smoke right through the range it's a happy little motor. If your concerned at all just use the spit test on the heat sink, it's as accurate as any temp gauge you will find and far more consistant.

He uses the comp. Heater motor stays around 200 the whole time it's running.

The Odonnel medium in my 7 port

OS p5 or rb 5t in my MG66

OS p6 or rb 6t in my 5 port

Hey Boxhead , Dont worry about the temps .. the engine will tell you if its over heating , it wont usually idle after a hard run if its too hot.

have you havd a look at the MM tech tips ? some good info in there re the engine and its recommended running procedures .

http://www.massivemods.com.au/index.php?cPath=14

Cheers MM

PS hows the full scale racing ? built any new cars lately ?

For the MG66 are these the 2 options your reffering too?

http://www.nbhc.com.au/item_detail.aspx?id=5254


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...low-Plug-Hot-1

Hi there Mark, forgive my ignorance, I did not even think to look at your site regarding glow plugs.
Is this the right one?
http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=213

I do have that setup and tuning guide saved into my laptop, and did my own tuning (after some tips from guys at the track) and am now very happy with the way the MG66 works.
This is the first time I have ever tried to do my own tuning on a nitro engine, I am more used to the 1:1 scale :)

Here is a picture from me in my toy racing at Winton a few weeks ago.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d..._1280x768_.JPG

Hmm - Nice Shelby Cobra boxhead :nod: That must be a real buzz :D

yep, thats the ones I run.

got my mg66!!! Looks real sweet. My effortless clutch finally also came... Will hook it up soon.

Hey BoxHead

i was up at 6 am this morning to catch the Carroll Shelby special on the Shelby Cobra Concept, a 6.4 L V10 in a car that weighs under 1400 kg ... thats gotta be worth bringing a spare set of undies ! ... It was an awesome Docco ! What a buzz that must be to drive a piece of racing history !

Lopez and I and other Go drivers will be at the first round of the Pro series south. Anybody that is running Go Motors and need any help at all please come over and ask.

Good luck!!

Rex

Thanks Grizz, can be very exciting and very scarey within the blink of an eye.
The motor is near stock (only computer tuneing and the open side pipes) and it is just shy of 370hp at the back wheels, but in a car that weighs 1100kg it is a handful when you squirt the pedal at the wrong time.
I have been speed trap clocked at 246kph (in 4th gear) on the main straight at Wakefield park. It runs a 6 speed box.