what carb? long lsn or short. if short i can give you a easy tip :)

short needle, i need all the tips i can get:nod:

any tips?

I would replace the high and low speed o-rings with the new nitrile ones. Yes a Nova carb will fit.

Rex

are u getting any leakage around your carby boot on the slide ? a pin hole will do it !
i & others have found this after going through what u have !
as rex said replace your needle seals with the nitrile ones & your carby crankcase seals aswell
some fuels will gum up if left in the carby for to long, so while you are replacing the needle seals give the carby a good clean out too
what are your exhaust seals like, if old replace them
hope something helps here

ah ok,so your saying that GO engines has a life span of only 2-3 gallons?

I never said that. I just bought a used engine for cheap and decided to have it repinched and cleaned up. It ran perfectly fine, but i know there was more than 3 gallons run with it, the ebay listing said 2 1/2 gallons but judging by the residue and pinch i'd say a good 7-8+ gallons had been run through it. Oh well, great engines btw i love my 3 port go engine, it has tons of power!

the life span of any motor is determined by breakin method, quality of the fuel used, end of day procedure - whether you leave the piston at TDC during cool down etc, etc........

was you motor hot or cold when you turned the motor over ?

Quite right :nod: A well maintained and tuned GX motor should reach the 10 gallon mark without to much trouble. I know of some GO engines that have done 60 plus litres (that's just over 13 gallons) and still running strong. It all comes down to TLC and a good tune.

^ +1 :nod:

im not using the gx series,i followed breakin method on grizz's website,then after i finished the breakin procedure,i replaced the conrod with a new one and change my main bearing into a novarossi's,im only worried about is when im turning it the flywheel by hand easily,temps im running is 250-270.

FYI: I take good care of my engines too.im not new to nitro.

what was the temp of the motor when u turned it over by hand ? if hot then just enjoy the motor :cool:
& have u removed the run-in shim ? or didn't use it ?
we're all just trying to help so u can enjoy your motor :nod:

i turned the engine when its cold, im using .4mm shims,the engine still makes lots of crazy power.

set you lsn stock. hsn...

start her up on the box... let her warm for a few revs... now... richen it out just continously turning out untill it will almost die when at WOT. hold wot.
now turn in your needle continously untill it just screams on the box. chuck her on the ground and go for some high speed runs on the longest strait on a track or 30-60metres and adjust hsn in hours untill you get thin smoke with nice speed.

lsn. kill it.. let her cool to room temp... fire her bak up let her warm up for a 1min!! only 1 min... now without radio on use the linkage and slowly pull it out up to full throttle (dont death rev it(go to full for less then half a second)
it should be rather boggy between 0-50% throttle lean it at an hour at a time untill it cleanly goes up. then go 1/2 an hour more on lsn now turn on radio gear make sure she not too hot if so let her cool then restart an warm. for 1 min

slam the gas wheels should go ape. and make sure when you let go off the gas she drops strait to idle if not she will require a little more adjustments on lsn. youll notice what it needs by hearing it.

that will give you a normal tune which you can use on 95% of days

works wonders on my little red head 3 port she sits at 250F and never moves

A good test is to hold the motor by the flywheel when it is cold, and let it flop onto it's side.
If it will hold it's own weight on compression when you gently bounce it like this all is well. If it slowly turns over and flops upside down then it is worn for whatever reason and is down on compression.