Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7718867)

Quite right :nod: A well maintained and tuned GX motor should reach the 10 gallon mark without to much trouble. I know of some GO engines that have done 60 plus litres (that's just over 13 gallons) and still running strong. It all comes down to TLC and a good tune.

Originally Posted by 808gx7r (Post 7719302)

set you lsn stock. hsn...

start her up on the box... let her warm for a few revs... now... richen it out just continously turning out untill it will almost die when at WOT. hold wot.
now turn in your needle continously untill it just screams on the box. chuck her on the ground and go for some high speed runs on the longest strait on a track or 30-60metres and adjust hsn in hours untill you get thin smoke with nice speed.

lsn. kill it.. let her cool to room temp... fire her bak up let her warm up for a 1min!! only 1 min... now without radio on use the linkage and slowly pull it out up to full throttle (dont death rev it(go to full for less then half a second)
it should be rather boggy between 0-50% throttle lean it at an hour at a time untill it cleanly goes up. then go 1/2 an hour more on lsn now turn on radio gear make sure she not too hot if so let her cool then restart an warm. for 1 min

slam the gas wheels should go ape. and make sure when you let go off the gas she drops strait to idle if not she will require a little more adjustments on lsn. youll notice what it needs by hearing it.

that will give you a normal tune which you can use on 95% of days

works wonders on my little red head 3 port she sits at 250F and never moves

Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 7722356)

well, i messed with it today, i threw a nova carb on and seemed to be alot better, but want to fix the GO carb, i dont like running differnt brands on one engine, i did get a fairly good tune, i dont use temp gun to tune engine, i do it by feel and listening. i use tmp gun to check temp after done running, temp was 232 deg so no worries there, going to pull GO carb apart shortly and give a good cleaning and inspect o-rings, thanks all for the reply's and tips......................to be continued...............

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7722249)

I don't like the idea of tuning the low speed (or high speed) when the motor is cold as you suggest. Only warming for 1 min then tuning will give you a mediocre tune at best when you reach full operating temps.
ALWAYS fine tune your motor when it is hot, after running a tank through at least. It takes time for the chassis to fully saturate and act as an efficient heat sink. If the crankcase temperatures are not in the normal operating range, the fuel will not be vapourising as efficienty. If race tuned under these conditions, once the the crankcase is hotter, the fuel will vapourise much more efficiently totally changing the tune. Get a basline tune on the box to get the motor running certainly, but don't tune for racing or normal running until you have the motor up to temperature and the chassis saturated.
And throw that temp gauge away too Nick :nod:

Originally Posted by 808gx7r (Post 7724329)

oh i cant i own 3... :)
i dont use them on the gx engines.
i do use it on my short needle go engines to tell if up to temp... hence why i said what i did above. i dont tune it too temp i just tuned her an check it if smells hot when i bring her in

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7724411)

:confused: OK, whatever works for you :)

Originally Posted by 808gx7r (Post 7724445)

what i ment to say is if she smells really hot i will temp her just to be sure.

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7724529)

If your tuning the motor (lsn or hsn) on the box, or before it's not fully warmed up, it probably will come in a little hot after a while (and I don't mean Megan Fox :)) because it will have leaned out as the motors temp reaches it's normal running range (whatever that may be).
Motors are always a little blubbery when cold, then come right as they run up to temp. If you lean it when it is cold so it sounds right, it will be too lean after half a tank or so. What I am trying to say is - don't tune your motor until it is fully warmed up and the chassis has saturated with heat. But hey, if your system is working for you then that's cool (or hot perhaps :p).

Originally Posted by jwm2 (Post 7725778)

How hard would it be to change from long needle to a short needle on the carb? Is it as simple as removing the long needle and replacing it with a short needle? Also which short needle will work for the go engine .21's? Any help is appreciated.

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 7726294)

Yep, it's that simple. GO make a short needle for their carb. Some countries import the motors with the short needle (USA) while most other importers opt for the original long needle. If you are in the US just order an LSN off one of the distributors - it will be a short needle. If outside the US contact your local distributor and ask for a 21-2003-A which is the short needle replacement.
You could also just cut down your long needle from 1.6" to 1.42" with a rounded end. It will work fine. Your carb will then tune like a Nova or any other carb. Ask back here for base settings if you change needles.