Rex mentioned, a couple weeks ago, that there
may be some MG66 engines on the way and I
told him that I was interested. I tried to order
one from MM awhile back, but they wanted to
play the Paypud game only, so I said forget it.
I need to get my hands on a few 2072 pipe sets
also.

if you guys love the the GoTech engines you guys will certainly want to get your hands on a mg66 there the bomb man :D

Just got the go 7pt 21 engine combo, Manual says turn out hsn 1 1/2 turns, they are both currently out of the box at flush, It does not mention fitting a shim although on is supplied, thought this was if running 30%, question is do i start by leaving needles flush or winding out as per manual, does it definately need the shim fitting for running in?
Hope you can advise.

If the needles are flush, the only needles I would be touching are the LSN and Idle gap screw to help preventing it stale durring run in, do not rev it too hard for the first ltr and keep the temps up.
The extra shim is for 30% fuel tho if you like you can put it in for break in to take strain off the starter box, also heat a cold engine with a hair drier or heat gun for initial start up.
I'm sure someone else can elaborate on this.

Trey,

i would like to try them!

ok guys... please have your shops contact me and let me know how many they need to order. That way I can have an idea as to how many to stock and how many of the parts that are specific to those motors to inventory.

When I stock items, I want to make sure that I can have replacement parts available. I also want to make sure that the demand is there. So far, I've really only heard from Rex...

The shim helps during break in. Also, make sure that you preheat the motor to a min of 190 degrees fahreneheit, at the cylinder. I usually heat mine to at least 200 degrees.

Same thing for me. And yesterday, i have replace the long low speed needle for the short one.
Wayyyy more easy to tune and no more flame out during break-in.

are you going to have an online web site where we can buy engines and parts? I pretty much am an amain guy unless I buy direct from massive mods. But since I love the go tec engine line,great price,reliability only draw back has been the service here in the states. So,yes I am interested in the mg66 and every other part that I need for the gen 5.5 engines. I have one 7 port that I am still on gallon 12. So these are very reliable if you break them in right. I would rec. carrying some massive mod run in oil. I have used that on every engine I have owned and all 5 of them are running strong. I will be a costumer of yours for a long time as long as the parts are there. Well in closing I wish you much success.:cool:

Leave the needles at flush.

Go to my web site at www.go-racing.co.nz and visit the Tech Tips page. There you will find a really good break in method and tuning tips for the GO GX series motors (and earlier pro Series motors as well). Cheers :cool:

thanks grizz1, thats a helpfull page you have there

Thanks for the help, I am on my way to your website now,
Got to admit the part about swapping the needles has thrown me though.

brilliant write up on tuning and running in, has answered my questions and I am now ready to run it in,

Thanks again

Trey or Rex,

will, or do either of you have the MRI run in oil?

Glad we could be of some help :)
Don't worry about the long / short needle thing. On the older Pro series carbs the long needle LSN carbs where a bit difficult to tune if you were new to the GO engines. A lot of people changed to the shorter LSN needle for a more traditional tuning style. The newer refined GX and MG66 carbs still use the long LSN, but are now easier to tune (sure seem to be anyway). Stick with and master the long LSN carb and you will be better off in the long run. The carbs are designed to run with these needles for a smooth power band and great fuel economy. Once you have the HSN set after initial tuning, it's easy. You really only have to tune with one needle intead of two, so in effect once your set up it's easier then a traditional carb.