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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

makaluch 08-29-2009 08:20 AM

Here's a teaser vid. It's more about the fuel than the engine though.

Massive Mods MG66 Dyno Run

Thanks for the tips Malik. 086 it is. Gotch...P3/4 turbo plug. I didn't realize it used a turbo plug. I've been outa the game for a few years and I'm gettin old...pardon the old shoes in my brain clutch. I rarely burn up plugs but I like to throw a new one in every gallon or so just for shits and giggles.

leapinglizard 08-29-2009 09:31 AM

i should move to AUS
 

Originally Posted by MassiveMods (Post 6271244)
Hey Gary ! real happy you are getting off on the MG66 . its interesting that you noticed that the engine has no power band really .. its really linear and is designed that way. What you can do with it is use softer springs and earlier engagement with the clutch , this will give you faster middle corner speed and smoother exit speed. The engine also makes power quickly so its still snappy yet predictable .

MASSSIVE !

man you guys are lucky,

when i get my hands on one of those MG66,we will be have something like a come to Jesus meeting with the Texas hobbiest all the non GO TECH believer will parish lol

leapinglizard 08-29-2009 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by malik (Post 6273660)
For the .25 6 port use the 086 its the recommended pipe other than a Go pipe, the OD97T or 77T is good or P3 or P4. The guy with the 3 port race, the ae2035 this pipe is similar to the 053 I run on my 3 port BUT mine is modded. I never will tell someone to put a JP pipe on a GO engine unless you dont care at all about runtimes. I am not going to disagree with anyone so I am going to say try them both. JP pipes are awesome pipes but for some reason they get shitty runtimes on Go's. I have tried the 1 2 and 3 and they ran well but I got like 3-4 mins of runtime with other pipes a midrange pipe isnt a bad choice for the 3 in stock form I know a GO now EB sponsored guy who used to run either the 2060 or 2050 on his 3 and swore by it and had many pipes to choose from.

hey are you driving a Caster buggy if so what makes you like it better than the other rides

mattwoodcraft 08-29-2009 01:01 PM


Originally Posted by malik (Post 6273660)
For the .25 6 port use the 086 its the recommended pipe other than a Go pipe, the OD97T or 77T is good or P3 or P4. The guy with the 3 port race, the ae2035 this pipe is similar to the 053 I run on my 3 port BUT mine is modded. I never will tell someone to put a JP pipe on a GO engine unless you dont care at all about runtimes. I am not going to disagree with anyone so I am going to say try them both. JP pipes are awesome pipes but for some reason they get shitty runtimes on Go's. I have tried the 1 2 and 3 and they ran well but I got like 3-4 mins of runtime with other pipes a midrange pipe isnt a bad choice for the 3 in stock form I know a GO now EB sponsored guy who used to run either the 2060 or 2050 on his 3 and swore by it and had many pipes to choose from.

i cant comment on all the JP pipes but i wouldnt completely rite them off we have a 7 port with a JP4 pipe and get 10 plus minut run times very easy with this pipe ,

Gizmatron 08-29-2009 03:04 PM


Originally Posted by MassiveMods (Post 6271244)
Hey Gary ! real happy you are getting off on the MG66 . its interesting that you noticed that the engine has no power band really .. its really linear and is designed that way. What you can do with it is use softer springs and earlier engagement with the clutch , this will give you faster middle corner speed and smoother exit speed. The engine also makes power quickly so its still snappy yet predictable .

MASSSIVE !

well the new servo arrived so took it to the track today..motor fires so instantly it just amazes me ..buggy was nice around the track but after a tankful to warm it up it started to make a grinding noise so I pitted to find the bearings where the centre driveshaft enters the rear gearbox had died again..3rd time in 2 weeks so I decided to take it apart ..anyway turns out when I broke a tooth on the small pinion 3 weeks ago it also buggered the teeth on the main diff pinion..I didn't notice this so just replaced the small gear..so now it's ground the teeth of that one again and it is the heat each time that is destroying the bearings..Replaced both pinions again and off to test the MG66 some more..DUH! look properly next time..

Oooooooooh feels like I got new buggy..seems I have been driving a front wheel drive buggy for a while..damn that back end must have been slipping for ages..anyway I'm running not only 3 alloy shoes with 1.0 mm springs which alone would be enough to bog the 7 port..but I also upped the main gearing from 13/46 to 14/46..motor pulls it easily and will happily lift the front wheels now I have some bloody drive to the rear.No wonder I couldn't leave people in my dust properly last weekend..DAMN!

this motor is the dog's nuts..!!! I'm approaching 3 liters and thinking of leaning just a touch for racing next weekend..havent even bothered to temp it as it runs so perfectly..was intending to use this for racing and keep the 7 port for club stuff and messing around but the MG66 is so much fun I can't see the 7 port ever leaving it's box except in an emergency..

grizz1 mate..wait till you geta couple of liters throug it..mines starting to loosen up a bit and really snarl properly..shit I can't wait to put the ceramics in it..Muahahahaha

grizz1 08-29-2009 04:10 PM

Hey Giz, Great to see you getting some fuel through the new motor.
Mate, I have to agree 100% with everything you say about the the MG66. Even though it's running awesome with the limited fuel we have put through, you just know by driving it and listening to it, that there is a lot more to come when it's fully bedded in. What amazed me most was the way in which it started up and ran straight out of the box !! It's hard to remember that you are running the motor in, as it just wants to get up and go after about the 4th tank. I did some "sort of race pace laps" with mine yesterday, still a tad rich and being careful not to pull too hard on the throttle (except for a couple of moments of weakness :p). For a brand new motor with 1.5 litres through it it was incredible. When Massive said to break it in with 5 or so tanks foiled, then throw it on the track, I thought he was joking. But it seems that is not too far off the mark.
I am still going to take it easy for at least another litre though, as I just can't get my head around driving a new motor that hard, especially after being used to the tighter Gen 4 and 5 motors. It just doesn't feel right ;)
Having said that, I am sure you could race it after a litre, as it has none of the tight, sluggish feel that most new motors have for a while. It just wants to play almost straight away :D
I am thinking I will have the same dilema as you Giz. My plan was to run my 5 Port and keep this motor for bigger events, but it's such a pleasure to drive I can see that plan going out the window. It's gonna be hard to go back to another motor, when you know this one is sitting there waiting to run. Maybe a second 66 run in and left in the box for big events would be the answer :eek: I can't believe I just said that. I hope my better half didn't get the vibes :D :cool:

malik 08-29-2009 05:51 PM

Like I said I only tested with the 1 2 and 3 so the 4 and 6 I cant comment on. And on the .25 6 port you may be right to tell you the truth they used to come with the standard button but they now offer a turbo for it not sure if it comes with the turbo now or not sorry about that. But if it has the standard head OS a3 and a5 I belive is what the guyd who run them used last year. I havent seen any this year and I use only .21's even when I ran truggy.

22Racer 08-29-2009 07:26 PM


Originally Posted by makaluch (Post 6271981)
I just bought a Go Tech .25 6-port motor for my 8ight-T 2.0. I'm doing some research on the best pipe and I'm seeing that the 2047 is this engine's match made in heaven. So, I have a few questions...
  • What pipe is a good alternative to the 2047?
  • Best button/shim setup for running 20% ?
  • Whats a good OS plug alternative to the recommended plugs?

I have a Losi RE11 (2050 copy) and a Dynamite 086. Unfortunately, we can only get Blue Thunder locally. It's fresh from the bashers usin it, but I don't completely trust the mix so I hold back on the perfect tune. We're just club level guys so I'd like a good balance between long life and performance. I'm an aggressive roll-on/roll-off guy so I prefer a smooth pull.

Any guidance and advice would be sweet. Thanks fellas!

Mark M.


086 pipe
remove one thin brass shim for 20%
all the .25's I've seen are std. plug, we use a Go #5 or a Odonnell 99os plugs are shorter size like an Os. I have used a longer plug with 2 washers.

Rex

herb99 08-29-2009 07:28 PM

The 0801 pipe is great on the .25 GO. I can get 9 mins easy with a 7mm carb insert in a truggy. That is with a standard head button.
I used the 3 head shims for the first gallon or 4 litres. After that just run 1 copper and 1 silver shim. Changed the rod after 8 litres. Motor has seen about 20 litres or 5 gallons of fuel and still has nice compression and holds a tune all day.

22Racer 08-29-2009 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by leapinglizard (Post 6274015)
man you guys are lucky,

when i get my hands on one of those MG66,we will be have something like a come to Jesus meeting with the Texas hobbiest all the non GO TECH believer will parish lol

Go team drivers are not supposed to use the Mg66 I was told.


I had a friend recently buy a 5 port, he has been running his Speed for a year and also has a Jx Ninja and a Jp B5. He was very impressed with the 5 port, on his motor I only slightly modded with a shim under the sleeve for timing and a epoxy ramped crank.


Rex

defcon13 08-29-2009 07:56 PM

well,
just to give some feedback about my go pro 5port. i'm now at the 1.5 gal on this engine and so far, its a dream to drive and tune. i was a bit sceptical about the tuning with a long lsn, but i found it very easy. the powerband is exactly what i was looking for, good bottom (not too much like a .28) and very good top end with the 086 pipe. only thing i didn't checked yet is runtimes. they seem good but i dont think that the 086 pipe is the best pipe for this.
i have changed the conrod at the 1 gal mark like some have suggested. i was a bit surprised to see that there was some slope of the conrod on the crank pin. i just hope it was caused by the breakin and that it wont be an issue during the rest of the life of the engine.
last thing to see is the lifespan of the engine. if it lives as long as some say (8-10 gal) i will be definitely sold to these engines!:nod:

bigmatt 08-29-2009 08:12 PM


Originally Posted by defcon13 (Post 6275636)
well,
just to give some feedback about my go pro 5port. i'm now at the 1.5 gal on this engine and so far, its a dream to drive and tune. i was a bit sceptical about the tuning with a long lsn, but i found it very easy. the powerband is exactly what i was looking for, good bottom (not too much like a .28) and very good top end with the 086 pipe. only thing i didn't checked yet is runtimes. they seem good but i dont think that the 086 pipe is the best pipe for this.
i have changed the conrod at the 1 gal mark like some have suggested. i was a bit surprised to see that there was some slope of the conrod on the crank pin. i just hope it was caused by the breakin and that it wont be an issue during the rest of the life of the engine.
last thing to see is the lifespan of the engine. if it lives as long as some say (8-10 gal) i will be definitely sold to these engines!:nod:

Is this the new gx 5 port? did the new con rod have the slop? Also did you put in the run in shim? Do the new gx line need a run in shim? 22 racer you seem up on the gx line chime in and let us know.

makaluch 08-29-2009 08:41 PM

22Racer - I see you're a GoTech engine dealer. I'm wondering if you also deal with parts.

Or, can you point me in the right direction for parts on that .25 6-port race...particularly carb restrictors and a conrod if I need it later. I bought the engine here, but they don't list parts for the .25.

22Racer 08-29-2009 09:13 PM

Yes I try to carry most parts, I am pretty sure I have one rod left and I do have restrictors.

Rex

grizz1 08-29-2009 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by defcon13 (Post 6275636)
well,
just to give some feedback about my go pro 5port. i'm now at the 1.5 gal on this engine and so far, its a dream to drive and tune. i was a bit sceptical about the tuning with a long lsn, but i found it very easy. the powerband is exactly what i was looking for, good bottom (not too much like a .28) and very good top end with the 086 pipe. only thing i didn't checked yet is runtimes. they seem good but i dont think that the 086 pipe is the best pipe for this.
i have changed the conrod at the 1 gal mark like some have suggested. i was a bit surprised to see that there was some slope of the conrod on the crank pin. i just hope it was caused by the breakin and that it wont be an issue during the rest of the life of the engine.
last thing to see is the lifespan of the engine. if it lives as long as some say (8-10 gal) i will be definitely sold to these engines!:nod:

If it's a Gen 5 model the slop in the big end of the rod will have been caused by the super tight pinch during run in. This really hammers the rod. That's why it's recommended to change the rod after the first gallon or two.
The new rod will be sweet, now that you have it loosened up.
The 086 is pretty good on the 5 Port, and economy is not bad. The best pipe for economy and performance on the 5 Port IMO is the GO 0801. The new 2072 goes really well, but I don't know how it compares economy wise yet to the 0801 on a stock motor.
Replace the bearings when necessary (or just before it's necessary) to keep everyrhing lined up inside correctly and the 5 Port will last very well. With regular maintainence you should see up to 10 gal or more.


Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 6275683)
Is this the new gx 5 port? did the new con rod have the slop? Also did you put in the run in shim? Do the new gx line need a run in shim? 22 racer you seem up on the gx line chime in and let us know.

Hi Matt. I spoke with Massive regarding the break in shim in the MG66, and he said not to bother with it. The new range of motors (MG66 and GX Series) are designed with less initial pinch, so the strain on the rod etc is greatly reduced. The 66 turned over on the starter box no problems without the break in shim, so the GX should be the same.


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