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Originally Posted by zonda
(Post 6268787)
yeh it does look awesome I have only just got my first ever go tech engine and i love it but im going to have to get one of these later on this year !
I noticed some people are not happy about the parts and engine availability in the US. Whats wrong with just ordering stuff direct from masive mods ? one more thing has any one on here got an MG66 and run it in yet?? whats it like? Tell me now :sneaky: LOL |
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Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 6270586)
I put about 3 liters through my MG66 last weekend and it's just fuckin awesome..no other word for it..no power band just grunt from start to finish..I was lifting the front wheels in the straights on grass track with it..once it's properly run in I have a set of ceramic bearings for it.not that it needs them I just have the urge to make it as mad as possible for next season...more testing this week was delayed by the death of my steering servo..new gear arrived only to find it was the motor pinion worn as well..which of course you can't buy so I had to bite the bullet and get a new 5955.£75..oh well the last one lasted 3 years hard abuse and it was secondhand when I got it..I'm at the track tomorrow doing some final work for the race next weekend so I'll be running a few more tanks through it then..i'll have a better report after that as it'll be easier to make comparisons on my home track..
Hey Gary ! real happy you are getting off on the MG66 . its interesting that you noticed that the engine has no power band really .. its really linear and is designed that way. What you can do with it is use softer springs and earlier engagement with the clutch , this will give you faster middle corner speed and smoother exit speed. The engine also makes power quickly so its still snappy yet predictable . MASSSIVE ! |
3 port died
My 3 port died, who has the gx- r5 in stock in the USA????????
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Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
(Post 6271399)
My 3 port died, who has the gx- r5 in stock in the USA????????
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I just bought a Go Tech .25 6-port motor for my 8ight-T 2.0. I'm doing some research on the best pipe and I'm seeing that the 2047 is this engine's match made in heaven. So, I have a few questions...
I have a Losi RE11 (2050 copy) and a Dynamite 086. Unfortunately, we can only get Blue Thunder locally. It's fresh from the bashers usin it, but I don't completely trust the mix so I hold back on the perfect tune. We're just club level guys so I'd like a good balance between long life and performance. I'm an aggressive roll-on/roll-off guy so I prefer a smooth pull. Any guidance and advice would be sweet. Thanks fellas! Mark M. |
out of JP-1, JP3, and TTR2035 whats the best pipe to go with go 3 port turbo plug?
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out of those pipes you listed i would use the jp3
the 2035 isnt a good pipe for these engines they better suited os based engines IMO:):) |
Originally Posted by makaluch
(Post 6271981)
I just bought a Go Tech .25 6-port motor for my 8ight-T 2.0. I'm doing some research on the best pipe and I'm seeing that the 2047 is this engine's match made in heaven. So, I have a few questions...
I have a Losi RE11 (2050 copy) and a Dynamite 086. Unfortunately, we can only get Blue Thunder locally. It's fresh from the bashers usin it, but I don't completely trust the mix so I hold back on the perfect tune. We're just club level guys so I'd like a good balance between long life and performance. I'm an aggressive roll-on/roll-off guy so I prefer a smooth pull. Any guidance and advice would be sweet. Thanks fellas! Mark M. |
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It looks like I had some bad luck with a 7 port I got in a trade. I had trouble with removing the bearings out and one of the fins on the top where the head button get's installed cracked off.
So now i need another crank case. If anyone has a gen 5 crank case they longer need and willing to sell pm me. I'm in Australia so would like to buy from here.. Thanks Jason. |
Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 6270586)
I put about 3 liters through my MG66 last weekend and it's just fuckin awesome..no other word for it..no power band just grunt from start to finish..I was lifting the front wheels in the straights on grass track with it
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
(Post 6271244)
Hey Gary ! real happy you are getting off on the MG66 . its interesting that you noticed that the engine has no power band really .. its really linear and is designed that way. What you can do with it is use softer springs and earlier engagement with the clutch , this will give you faster middle corner speed and smoother exit speed. The engine also makes power quickly so its still snappy yet predictable .
MASSSIVE ! I have been involved in breaking in two of these motors now, and I have to say it's a breeze. They start up first turn of the starter box, and idle like a 2 gallon old motor right from the start. This motors ability to run so strong and steady straight out of the box is one of it's many great features. I ran 7 tanks through mine running a little rich with the head foiled, bringing the revs up a little more each tank. I was going to keep running it like this for a few more tanks, but it seemed like it wanted to stretch it's legs, so off came the foil and out on the track we went with a slightly rich tune. WOW :eek: This motor is turbine smooth - that's the best way I can think of describing it. It just starts off and keeps on winding out, and out, and out. No obvious power band, like Giz and Massive described above. It's just a steady surge from start to finish. Sooooo easy to drive. When you want "animal" just pull harder on the throttle and try to keep the front end down. Seriously, and this was after only 8 tanks. With a few more litres through it this motor will be even more fantastic. The scary part is - when I got home and was cleaninig and checking the buggy, I noticed it wasn't rolling as free as usual. Then found it was a bit notchy in the front diff :weird: Stripped it down and discovered one of the front pinion bearings was seized solid with rust (took a trip into a puddle a couple of weeks ago) and the pinion gear was actually spinning inside the bearing. So all this performance with a near brand new motor and a partially seized front end. Now that's IMPRESSIVE. I would say this motor would be suitable for racers of any skill level. Because of it's seamless / linear power curve, it is controlable enough for a relative newcomer, but in the right hands can be a seriously sick puppy :nod: You can be very proud of what you have achieved Mark. The MG66 will, I think, set a bench mark that will put GO engines right up there with the best the market has to offer. |
Originally Posted by ieie
(Post 6272695)
It looks like I had some bad luck with a 7 port I got in a trade. I had trouble with removing the bearings out and one of the fins on the top where the head button get's installed cracked off.
So now i need another crank case. If anyone has a gen 5 crank case they longer need and willing to sell pm me. I'm in Australia so would like to buy from here.. Thanks Jason. |
the MG66 sounds realy good guys, somehas to upload a vid of their MG66 dying to see one run.
have to say also I was never into RC this much until I started to use GO engines, performance and price is unbeatable!! now im just hooked!! |
For the .25 6 port use the 086 its the recommended pipe other than a Go pipe, the OD97T or 77T is good or P3 or P4. The guy with the 3 port race, the ae2035 this pipe is similar to the 053 I run on my 3 port BUT mine is modded. I never will tell someone to put a JP pipe on a GO engine unless you dont care at all about runtimes. I am not going to disagree with anyone so I am going to say try them both. JP pipes are awesome pipes but for some reason they get shitty runtimes on Go's. I have tried the 1 2 and 3 and they ran well but I got like 3-4 mins of runtime with other pipes a midrange pipe isnt a bad choice for the 3 in stock form I know a GO now EB sponsored guy who used to run either the 2060 or 2050 on his 3 and swore by it and had many pipes to choose from.
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