Do you Go owners completely dismantle your brand new engine and clean them out before their first run? A lot of local guys are recommending it, or at least removing the back plate and washing out as much of the engine as possible then leaving the piston at TDC for a few days after sealing the back plate again.

hi

sorry about posting this here BUT

ive been trying to post a new thread for about a week now. and i keep getting a message that the site is having problems.

is anyone else having this problem?
it says at the bottom of the page that i may post a new thread.
tried to send email to the site, but i cant email through outlook express

if someone could help or forward this to administator would be apprietiat it

steve

i have never done that to a new engine, i have sealed the back plate and carb before thats about it, i dont think it would be a good idea to put the piston at top dead center and leave it there, what is the reason for leaving it at top dead center for a few days for? to loosen the pinch?

Don't know the reason for it, it was just recommended by one of our Xray sponsored drivers who used to run Go engines. I'll have to ask him why leaving it at TDC for a few days is good. I would guess that it allows them metal to conform at ambient temperatures.

i personally wouldnt give that a shot, if you are worried about the air leaks i would seal the back plate and the carb neck with some lucky 7 sealent and break it in, use a heat gun on the head to loosen the pinch up on start up during the break in process

So I'm ordering an engine from Massive Mods today and I can't decide which one I want, the MM5 5 or 7 port. Anyone here run them? Help me decide! I have an O.S. Speed carb that's going on it and a Dyn 086 pipe. My LHS carries the 0801 for a decent price too so that might be an option next week. Be running on larger outdoor tracks.

Thanks!



@ MarK (MM) do these come with ceramics installed?

check out the ebmod race prepped it comes with tko ceramic rear bearing,the carb is flow tested, they tin coated carb slide, coated crank, its fully broken in and ready to go,they make really good power and get great fuel economy

That's all good and everything but I've got only $240 to spend on a new mill, I'm definately getting one from MM, so please don't say "well you should buy this brand"

Thanks though.

didnt say "well you should buy this brand" seemed like you wanted a ceramic bearing and i figured i would mention the ebmod motor, you can get it for 255.00 from carolinas rc if you use the coupon code and take advantage of the free shipping, was just mentioning another option

That's cool man, I wasn't busting your balls. Sometimes these threads get carried away with peoples opinions and I just want to keep the conversation related to the MM engines is all. And with the currency exchange rate I'm getting the engine for $210 shipped so if it doesn't have ceramics I'm sure I can add them and still come in under the $240 mark

The MM 7 port turbo, this motor will have plenty of bottom end for buggy, smooth and rev's out real nice, I'm sure his engine will be all you need in terms of power, it should also be better for laptimes, and the 801 is very good on the 7 port, wakes the bottom end up and pull's like a mac truck, this should shine on your style track bud. Just my 2 cent's

The stock bearings I would leave in till around 2-2.5 gallons then go with the Tko's or what ever ceramics you want and at the same time put a new rod in it and you shouldnt have to open that thing up for a long time after that. I just did that to mine, break in is hard on bearings and the rod so thats why I dont recommend scraping a new set.

where did you buy the bearings at?

A-main has them in stock and good price or go directly to TKO. I had to get a bunch of other stuff thats why I got them from Amain.

Thanks Brian!

Once my job situation is straight this 5 port is coming back to you for a complete overhaul and mod