I run these in my engine MM5 7 port same as yours and half the price of os P plugs..cheapest online to my knowledge at the moment..

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=400010477416

..If you want to spend just a little more they also stock the ultra plugs..these have a larger opening where the filament sits and run just a bit hotter for the same number so 6's are the same as 5's if you like..I've run the TCA plugs and you can only ever find 7's or 8's on ebay and they are way cold..I hated them

http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=400010477471

Can you link the actual post? I have 40 posts per page setup so I can't correlate the page numbers. I am seeking out glow plugs for my new 5-port race engine.

P3,P4 or P6

You can also use O'Donnell 99T and 97T

It appears the GO likes an hot/ultra hot plug even with high nitro content.

i have a 7 port that has just gone trough a gallon...i keep burning plugs. i have gone trough 3. 2 os p3's and an odonnell 77t...the engine is running at around 260 degrees...what could be causing this?

I ran it in a Kyosho Wc buggy, all the power I needed. As for a Truggy, I think the 5 port would be better but the sport wouldn't be too bad. They also have a .28 sport, Map price is $134.99, they also run very good modded.

Rex

You can go through alot of plugs if you plug the exhaust to shut it down. Next time you go to fire it up it's dead.
If thats not it it's probably a tuning issue, possibly too rich on the bottom and lean on top. Set the idle gap at .7 mm and use the lsn to get the desired idle not the idle screw.
I have heard the Os p4 last longer than the p3, I am using Odonnell 97t and 77t.

Rex

U ever run the .28 modded sport

thanx for the suggestion. i I turn off the motor by bumping the flywheel. ok so as it is right now when i gun it down the straight it looks like im getting good smoke till about halfway down then i cant really see it...i have kept the hsn at .5 turns if from flush (i have the long lsn)..the low speed needle i have at about 2.75 in. if i lean it maybe 2 hours more on the lsn then i get like a hesitation when i punch it. most notable to clear rythm sections. it hesitates then takes of, hesitates, takes of. but still smoky. i cant figure it out. i retard the hsn then im not getting any good pull down the straight...any suggestions?

I used the method on page 11 of this thread as to tuning these engines. worked for me. But the first thing I did was set the idle gap about 1mm,then I turned the lsn 2.5 turns in from flush andreset the idle gap as it had moved, when I leaned the lsn. the hsn on mine is in about 1 turn from flush. from there I drove 2 tanks through it to get it fully warmed up, then it was about fine tuning the lsn. all in all it took about 3 tanks to get it dialed in from low speed to high speed. I will say that until these engines are warmed up there is no use in trying anything to them. I have the 5 port from eb mods and I just installed the dynamite 086 pipe from a jp-4. the jp-4 was good on this engine but the 086 makes it that much better. thats the other thing I noticed from switching pipes had to retune. also I am using sidewinder worlds 30% nitro. hope this helps.

I modded one for a local guy, he said it is really fast but I haven't seen it.

Rex

Well guys ... GO Engines .21 5 and 7 port seem to be a HELL OF A GOOD CHOICE for 1/8 - 1/7 GT Class, take a look :






Soon will post the video of the race ...

GO Rocks !

cya,

how is the .21 3 port race engine? is there anything better about the 5 and 7 port over the 3 port?

the 5 and 7 port may have a hair more top end for big tracks, i had a 3 port in a hyper tuggy and it moved it around nicely. right now i am running Caster Grenades and they are about all i can handle bottom through top. whenever i tune this motor i always end up at flush and flush with about 1mm gap and cold plugs. about 9 minutes with 7mm venturi in a tuggy too, temps in the 230's. after a race i can let it sit and it will idle through the rest of the tank if i let it, just purrs.