You are definately going to have to use a heat gun to get the new mill to turn over. Install the extra break-in shim if you haven't already, use a heat gun or strong hair dryer and try it again. This process can be frustrating but keep at it. You will be rewarded with a very good engine if properly taken care of.:nod:

Once you have over a half gallon through the engine you should be able to start it with out pre-heating the engine block although I would recommed you still pre-heat the engine until you hit the 1 to 1.5 gallon mark.

any1

Losi_racer I would suggest checking the carb for an air leak, If you can wait a few weeks, I know I will be out racing or hanging out atthe nitro pit and I can look it over and help you get a tune on it. Like stated earlier I believe it to be a idle gap issue causing the tune to be off.

Jnc, It sounds like you have had the tune close, how much fuel is thru the engine and are you running the extra head shim. If you look for smoke on the bottom and listen to the sound of the engine on bottom and top. (it may be easier to do this on the bench). Its possible that you are lean on top or overly rich on bottom. I would see if you can borrow a temp gun just to check the temps it make give you an idea of which way to go. Also what plugs are you using, is this a common problem or did it happen once.

Jnc also I would like to add that if you don't have a temp gun, reading plugs can be a very good way of seeing if your tune is correct. run the engine for a qualifier and then look at the plug coil, it should be white and damp or wet looking, if its dark and wet its too rich, if its white and dry its too lean, hope that helps.

ill be racin my new 2.0/grp set-up. i just started on the buggy. and its not a idle gap. i tried opening the idle more today and leaning the hsn out and it cut out

Yea, I figured as much. A hair dryer its going to be. I will take it out to dads shed and see if I can do it out there tomorrow evening perhaps.

I didnt bring the extra shim with me (DAMIT!). There is nothing in the instructions to suggest using it or to say what it actually is for. I knew i should have brought the box with me. Ohwell.

cmdgrimlock, at the track on thursday ill bring my Motorbike starter motor starter box, this thing will turn over ANYTHING guaranteed, so bring her out, and we will get her running :nod:


Mike

Alright man. Sounds like a plan. I think my Bro inlaw Steve might be coming too, hes a expereinced Nitro RC bloke so his help will be great also. I will still try to get it running tomorrow and hope to get as many tanks through it as possible.

Grimlock,

I had major problems getting my 5 port to turn over also. Here is what we had to do:

(1) make sure starter box spins up to full speed before the flywheel touches the starter wheel. Use a 12V car battery fully charged just to make sure you can pull the max amps.... a couple of 7.2V packs may not quite do it.

(2) at least 4 -6 drops after run oil or sewing machine / gun oil down the glowplug hole and move it around so it is soaking in the gap between piston and sleeve (bore)

(3) preheat it with hairdryer, we got the case and head too hot to touch.... a good 120deg C

(4) prime with fuel (blow in the line from the pipe, until fuel reaches carb nipple,then replace it)

(5) turn it backwards so it is at BDC. Then run it on the starter box for 30 sec with no glow plug in. Stand back, oil will go everywhere :nod:

(6) preheat again.

(7) run on starter box with no glowplug again, and whilst running it and holding it dead still, have a mate slowly screw a glowplug in till it *just* touches (not tight) then he quickly sticks a glow igniter on. Then you are away!!!

You'll need to do that (a 2 person start) for idling 2 tanks, and for the next 3-5 tanks of slow running. After that, a preheat and start with glowplug in will JUST be possible (one person start up) for the next 5 or so tanks, then it should be OK with no preheat.

u do things a very hard way lol.....just pre heat, if u wanna put oil in the piston go ahead. if it still wont turn over loosen the glow plug like 1 full turn. then do it again.if its still not turning over and u have it pre heated something wrong with ur box

Well got my baby's finaly ready (Hotbody D8) so this topic will be an crosspost here and in the D8 section.

Anyway still waiting for the 4Pk transmitter (damn Xmas postages) and the body's still are not finished.

But the engine: Go 7port Factory modded with the 2047 running Turbo head with Os P3 plug. Engine is still bit rich as it only has run 2 1/2 liters. Servo's used Savox 12Kg's Coreless servo's (and yes the mos-fets of these servo's make's some noise, but who cares if the engine runs you wont hear them but they are fast even on regular DSM)

Oh and yes the linkage doest touch the air filter but this has been solved now :)

+ YouTube Video

+ YouTube Video

+ YouTube Video

And some pics:
http://foto.rc-mvw.nl/main.php/d/8672-4/DSC00548.JPG
http://foto.rc-mvw.nl/main.php/d/8676-4/DSC00550.JPG
http://foto.rc-mvw.nl/main.php/d/8679-4/DSC00551.JPG
http://foto.rc-mvw.nl/main.php/d/8685-4/DSC00552.JPG

JNC - you got PM

If your running the long needle LSN carb, which I suspect you are, opening the idle gap and leaning the HSN is the worst thing you can do.
Because the long needle LSN stays in the carb spray bar right up to full throttle, you need a rich HSN to allow enough fuel past the needle to run correctly at high rpm's.

Set the idle gap at .7 - 1mm as suggested by rocket42.
Set the HSN at flush
Set the LSN at 1.5 turns in from flush.

Run and warm up fully. Start leaning the LSN until you get a good steady idle and correct pinch test (I am guessing about 2 - 2.5 turns in total, depending on fuel and pipe model).
Now if the top end is still a little blubbery, tune this out by turning in HSN up to a MAX of .5 of a turn, no more.
If you lean the top any more you will likely get lean bog below half a tank.
Lastly, set the idle speed if it needs adjusting.

This should run pretty good. If not, it's not a tuning problem. Take the HSN needle right out and flush the HSN housing and needle seat. Any dirt in there can cause all sorts of rich / lean problems. If that doesn't work start checking for air leaks in fuel tank, fuel lines, motor backplate, carb, pinch bolts etc.

Nice buggy Pinky ;)

I have a question for you guys. I have an old novarossi plus 21-5 that had a rear bearing let go on me awhile back. Lets just say the piston and head button don't look new anymore lol. However the crankshaft, crank case, and carb are all fine still. I have been thinking about buying a go tech 5 port piston, sleeve, rod, and head button for it, as well as a set of tko ceramic bearings. My question is would the go tech stuff slide right into the nova case and crank? I checked the bore and stroke and it is the same with the go and the nova. I can get all of the parts for around $150( alot cheaper than the nova parts) so i think it is worth it. My thought is that with the go p/s/r and the nice nova 21-5 crank the motor should produce a nice smooth, powerful powerband. I am just wondering if all the parts would lign up? I believe I heard somewhere that the go was actually modeled off of the nova, atleast the P/S/R was. Brian do you have any idea as to wether it would work? I just thought it would be a fun thing to try with a motor that would have been a paperweight. Thanks for any help.