Where is the best=cheapest place to get either just the rear or even a set of ceramic bearings for my PTM 5 port? And what brand is recommended?

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=157

+1 TKO is the way to go

I think my front (Gen5 7 port, 1 gal in and just beginning to loose hard pinch) engine bearing is leaking a little because there is a little dirt build up on the chassis under the front of the engine after each run. Will this drastically affect performance and/or the tune? It's seems to be running fine. Can I wait until 2gal point when I replace the con rod? I'm thinking about installing a set of TKO ceramics anyway.

My Gen 5 5 Port is the same, as was my Gen 4 5 Port. Just a little seepage. Itīs nothing to worry about. My motors running sweet as. If you want to, pop the flywheel off and spin the crank. If the rubber seal is moving around with the inner bearing race, then look at replacing the bearing. If the seal is stationary and just the inner race is turning as per normal it will be fine. If itīs leaking badly your motor will be running a little hot and it probably wonīt hold a tune.

2 gallons seems to be the general rule when changing rods after break in. By then pretty much all the pinch is gone so you can start running the new rod with no extra strain on it. Slip in a new wrist pin and G clip too, just for added peace of mind.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-tech-site-forum-14/

I don't mind the nick.

My RC8T arrived last night and I am trying to get all my parts in order. I have a G0 21 Pro 5 port + 2 and was planning on going with the 0801 pipe based on the suggestions in this thread. Anyone know the best place to pick up the pipe for a decent price?

Thanks in advance!

I just broke the 2 gal mark on my PTM 5 port and had somebody check my rod and they said it was fine. So I am going to get a set of bearings and gather the rod clips and pin and maybe around 1 more gallon have it all done at the same time. I dont do my own engine work so thats the most cost effective way for me to do it IDK.

malik - you should have a crack at doing the engine yourself. It's not hard to do, and very satifying when you run it afterwards.
Changing the rod is not a must do, but it just gives peace of mind when the engine gets a little older. The main reason behind it is because the Go Pro motors are soooo tight when the're new. Breaking them in places a lot of strain on the rod and wrist pin when they are this tight, so it's just a precautionary thing that most people do.

I do evrything else myself but the mills kinda IDK scare me. I dont have a air compressor to clean it out when putting it back together which is 1 thing I would have to do. The most I do is take the head off to clean under it and around the plug hole. Sooner or later I will start messing around with them but with an old 1 not a good one. I do of course seal my backplates and carb necks. And you aint telling me nothing aboutbreak in this was the toughest ever for me I had to heat it up for almost the 1st 3/4 gallon and still has mechanical pinch and it is a monster I ran it in truggy 1st and still was way powerful I had to tone it down for buggy.

Ha yeah, those 5 and 7 Port Pro motors are pretty tight alright !!
Most of mine have taken 1.5 to 2 gallons to loose their pinch.

The only tricky part about stripping and maintaining the motors is sometimes the sleeve can be hard to get out. There are several ways to get around this, just a matter of perserverence and maybe a little heat. I didnīt have a compressor when I started playing with these, I just used a drink straw to blow any debris away and clean surfaces (he he - pretty basic but it worked fine for a year or so). With only 3 major moving parts there is not too much you can get wrong
Hey, good idea - pick up an old motor and just pull it to bits and put it back together a few times, then start working on your 5 Port. You will enjoy it

Just out of interest, how did you tone down the 5 Port for your buggy - clutch bell gearing, springs, shoes, pipe ? Everyone has diffefrent ideas so itīs interesting to find these things out.

I have a full set of bearings.

Rex

In Truggy I ran the 8mm venturi now I run the 6.5, in truggy I ran 1.1 springs and alum shoes in buggy I run composite w/1.0 and I am thinkingabout even getting a smaller venturi to try like 5.5. I dont like changing the gearing from stock unless I didnt like it from the start and for me to go up on the bell im not shure if it would work because my local track has short run ups to large triples. I also like the smaller venturi because of more runtime. I would like o try a combo of alum and composite shoes but when i tried it before it just tore up the composite shoe and the 2 alum shoes in 1, 5 min qualifier. That was what was recommended to me by engine modder. But the all composite does slip a bit but it calms the mill down I am thinking about trying a Werks 4 shoe composite, lots of guys I know swear by them. 22 what brand and how much? Also Grizz I have some questions about the VP tires.

I'll be looking forward to seeing that new buggy of yours malik. Ill also be running a new buggy and a brand new 7 port turbo right out the box. Im going all new this year. RC8 fte and all. It shall be fun. haha

malik - YGPM

Here are pics of the three main VP Pro tyres.
These are pretty worn by the way. They look a lot sharper when new !!!!

Left - 802 Cutoffs
Centre - 803's
Right - 804 Minipins

The 804 Vp tires (similar to holeshot) are awesome, ran them in tacky and dry and thought they were better than a holeshot. The pins are a little bigger so they don't tear off like the Prolines. The Vp's have the same size rim as a Losi and the insert is good too.
I think I have a set of 804's in stock.

Rex