sent you a private message

Just keep leaning the LSN a little at a time. The HSN should end up somewhere between flush and .5 of a turn in - no more. If you go any fuether in on the HSN you will get lean bog. The long LSN stays in the spray bar even at full throttle, so you need the rich top end to allow enough fuel past at full throttle.
The LSN will tune 90% of the rev range, then you just tweak the HSN to get the last 10% to full throttle perfect. Important to check your idle gap is .7 - 1mm - no more. Because you tune with the LSN, this gap is very important as the throttle slide location also effects where the LSN needle sits. Change the idle gap and you change your LSN too.

hehe let me give you a cheat sheet.

PM = Private Message
Bump = posting a new message in a thread to raise it to the top of the forum.
Ping= The amount of time it takes for a packet of information to go from your computer to a host computer and back. Measured in Milliseconds.

That makes a lot of sense and explains why I originally gave up on the engine last year. I will keep this information in mind while tuning. Thanks for the help, guys.

Will G EB FUEL RULES I love the way it burnes and it doesnt have that super high oil content but the engine seems like it has been running fuel like that, now I just need ED to hook me up with 1 of them FM's to try out.

HA.........Thank you jasonguy!.....DEE DEE DEE....

Sorry folks. I didn't realize I would have such a huge response. Here are some pictures.


This is a B21 5port. You will need a piston, a sleeve, and a carb. The block has a chipped fin near the rear head screw hole. The engine still will seal. You can see it in the picture below.

To buy $100 + shipping

For those wanting to trade, I'm looking for hitec servos HS-985MG. I think 2 servos would be a good trade.

Looks like MassiveMods have some new Go products!, the new Go EFRA 2072, Turbo button for the .25 and .28 as well.

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...7bed28e708a5a1

http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...7bed28e708a5a1

wonder when they'll get here in the U.S.

That 2072 pipe looks like the goods. Be just like running the 2047 pipe with the 0801 header, but probably a little better. It will be nasty on the 5 and 7 ports, 3 port too I'm guessing - HOT

word thanks

Do you run it?
How about your feeling?
it's excellent.

I am digging the pipe.

I would be all over that pipe if I hadn't nuked my steering servo somehow yesterday .

Hello guys,
there is a point I would like to share with you about my new GO 5ports Stock engine.

The temperature of the pipe is high, which means my bodies are melting on the area above the pipe.

Has anyone had this issue before ?

The configuration I'm using is:
25% nitro fuel
OS P7 medium plug
GO 2047 Pipe
OS 2060 header (a litle bit shorter than the GO header)
Shimm: 0,1mm less than the stock configuration
engine work temp: 239 - 248 F
Good top end - not so good botom end.

Is this a normal situation for a GO Engines or does anyone has any sugestion ?

Thank you very much.

Cestari

Is that .1mm less than the stock with the extra run in shim or what? How many shims and what total thickness are you running..Less shims = higher compresssion = higher engine temps but lower exhaust temps..While running in generally add a .3 shim to reduce compression and give both your rod and starter box and easier time but this will increase exhaust temps some and may melt bodies ..How many gallons on the engine..Probably best not to reduce the shims too soon until the metal pinch has relaxed properly because the tightness of the engine gives more friction/compression and increases engine temps too..wait 2 gallons or so..I just removed my run in shim at 10 litres (2/1/2 gallons approx)..i ws melting my body just a touch on the header but thats stopped now..

edit..the lack of bottom end is probably the shorter header..longer headers for bottom end shorter for top end...your temps are fine..lowish in my experience .mine runs at 260º - 280º no problem..