I'm sorry man...not sure how I did that. I intended to post this one:

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=5120


I suppose a diaper is not what you need...lol.

I run P3 in Arizona at 110F+ on 30% with no problems.

hey guys. im going to be getting a 3 port here in a little while and i was wondering if there was anything that i needed to do before i started the break in. i also need a good break in guide

I won a GO .21 5 port on the weeekend.
Just wondering if someone can tell me what Generation GO it is?
Thanks

Thats a Gen 2 but don't worry it will run as strong as any other, just be sure to pressure test the carb and make sure its sealed up good. Congrats

FYI, local fun race 2 kyoshos kneck to kneck the MP777WC was fitted with an VZB Spec magnesium the other was a RTR 7.5 with upgrades same gear ratio's on both cars the 7.5 with the Go engine 5 port same as the picture above took out the Mp777WC, I did not believe it, I even had to check if the gear ratio was different....

Just an FYI, the 7 is probably better for any buggy setup. It has more than enough grunt. The 5 is to much for a buggy IMO. With my 7 I find that I sometimes have traction problems off the bottom so not lacking in low-end at all.

I am switching from truggy to buggy I am running a PTM 5 port with 1 1/2 gallons on it, its going into the new D8 with the Dynamite 086 I know it could be overkill so what carb restrictor do you guys recommend? I have the GO set but I was thinking I may even need to go smaller, what do you guys think?

I bought a used 5 port a couple of months ago and finally got around to running it the other day. It did not have much pinch at all, so I was not expecting much. I was surprised at how well it ran. Tuning was not that difficult for having the long lsn. I ended up running it much leaner then the stock setting on the lsn (flush). I sealed the whole engine up and checked all the orings. The orings on the needles where a little worn, but seemed ok. I am getting alot of oil coming out of the lsn around the boot. What causes this? It still runs good, I am curious as to how a new one would run compared to my jammin .21 that I love.

if your getting a lot of oil around the boot, you have a torn boot or its not sealing properly and that will cause an airleak.

I would send it out an get it pinched, you will get a better idea of how well it will run. I havenever ran a jammin engine so I can't tell you how the powerbands compare, but a properly tuned Go will give you a very nice powerband and the 5 port will give you great bottom end punch.

As far as people having trouble tuning the engines theres a couple of things i would liek to say, the carbs are very good and the engine tune very easy. you just have to get used to how much you turn the needles. A full hour on a go carb can dial you out, remember to use a gentle touch.

Also until the top end is fully broken in (no more metal pinch) the engine will not run its best unless its in the 250-260 range. It is best not to push that hot before the top end is broken in unless you have to.

One other thing I noticed at the track with a buddy and this is important going into winter is he fired the engine up and then began revving it really fast to warm it up. That puts an enormous strain on a fresh engine to try and make it spin r's completely cold. Give the engine short burst of medium throttle on the box before you put in on the track and let it get a little warmth in it first.

Also never try to run your engine completely out of fuel, and also be sure to set the piston at BDC after your race. Its those habits that add a lot of life to any engine.

Hi maycam - You will like your 3 Port a lot !! Couple of things with the Go motors.
1 - they are very tight when new. The 3 port not quite as much as the 5 and 7, but still tighter than most. Make sure you heat the engine with hot air gun or hair dryer before turning it over for run in. You may need to heat it for a couple of litres as they do tend to jam on the starter box when cold until partially run in.

2 - Run OS P3 or P4 plug. The Go´s really like these plugs.

3 - Go´s come with a short or long LSN depending on age (Gen 3,4 or 5)
The short LSN tunes like most other motors, but the long LSN tunes a bit different. You can tell if you have the long LSN as it is still just in the spray bar at full throttle. The short LSN comes out of the spray bar at around half throttle. For the long LSN set the HSN at flush and leave it there. Set LSN to 1.5 turns in and start run in. When you are ready to lean it a bit, lean mostly the LSN (up to 2.5 turns in) and leave the HSN around flush. Depending on pipe etc you will find the HSN will not need to go any further then .5 of a turn in. If you go past this you will get lean bog. You basically leave the HSN alone and tune with the LSN. See page 131 (i think) of this forum for long LSN tuning tips.

4 - Break in as follows in this post from Brian at Pro twister Mods, I quote

¨GO engine breakin

there are alot of ways to breakin a engine and alot of different opinions on which way is right. I use what i think is somewhat aggressive style, but it still gets adequate fuel through the motor without killing the rod and piston.

Needle setting out of the box. where ever it is set, i always putthe HSN flush or even a hour abouve fluch, and the LSN 1 1/2 turns in from flush, this makes idle during breakin consistant and idles well with good temp, when temps drop the motor will let you know, it makes a very distinctive pinging or tinking noise, the sleeve is shrinking and killing the piston and rod, low heat during breakin is the #1 contributer to broke wrist pin tabs on GO pistons, and the high rpms later on. good heat during breakin will keep good compresion in the motor in the later galloms of the motors life with out being to tight. and will hold a good idle at race temps.

Installing the engine.

After run oil is great. I soak the inside with it befor putting it on the car, let the extra run out the exaust port onto a rag, but be prepared for some smoke on start up. once you have the engine in the car and the exaUST on you are ready for some blowing, yes blowing. Blow in to the stinger of the pipe, you will see fuel going through the lines and into the carb, you can hear it enter the carb making a bubbly noise, when the fuel goes into the carb do it for about 2 seconds after that, then lift the car and turn the flywheel back and forth, this will basicly prime the engine without any dry rotation and coat the inside and also give a faster charge of fuel to help it start up, but heat it first, use foil on the head and preheat the engine with the plug just a tic loose, heat it to about 240 and crank it, remember you have fuel in the carb already so if needed you can apply some throttle to help it get going, just not alot, it doesn't take much with the LSN being set where it is, once it fires tighten the plug and go right to watching the temp, on the first tank keep it at 24o or so the entire tank, then return to BDC and let it cool to about 115.

Now is when i put the car on the ground, i adjust my idle screw to help when applying break not to close the carb. Now that the first tank has been done i start from one and go from here with foil still on the head and my needle settings.

Tanks 1 -6 idle to 1/2 throttle
lean LSN 1 hour and turn down idle screw
Tanks 7 - 12 idle to full throttle easy RPM climb

Go to the track and race tune from there, the HSN may only get turned 2 hours, but the low end will go farther, this setting will give great snap on the bottom and a good transistion to mid and top with good smoke the whole way. when you get to the track pull off the foil and go, if the temp go to 240 260 during 7 - 12 it's fine the settings are still fat you will see how much by the smoke, with this breakin the power robbing pinch will go in about a gallon. after that mark the temps will fall and the final race tune settings can be applied, trying to lean the engine with alot of metal pinch can cause iot to lean bog, flush the HS and lean the LS and the temps will be normal 3 or 4 hours leaning on a tight motor will not work during breakin, with these setting out of the box and changed to what i use the engine will be slightly blubbery on top but be able to get the car moving pretty easy off the bottom. ¨
End quote.

Hope this all helps.

Most of the serious guys down here and in Australia it seems, run the 5 port in buggy ??
It all depends how you gear it and clutch it I guess. You can take some of the vicious bottom end of the 5 port out with clutch and pipe, and maybe run a 14T bell as well if needed.
I agree with Furadi, the 7 is very nice in the buggy. I have been running a 7 until just recently and it had plenty of grunt down low with the 0801 pipe and 1.1 clutch shoes. I have just changed to a modded 5 Port so might be in a bit of trouble until I learn to feather the throttle a little
I am told the new Gen 5 5 Ports are a little less extreme down low due to a different crank (slightly more mass). Still got all the power, it just comes on a little smoother.
Just in the process of rebuilding my 7 Port with a modded sleeve from Mark at Massive Mods in Australia. The trusty 7 will be a sweet back up motor for sure.
If your new to buggy I would go with Furadi´s advice and put a Gen 5 7 Port in with the 0801 pipe - you won´t be disappointed that´s for sure

Just wanted to pop in and let you guys in on a video for a reference to a GO7port turbo

this is a GO 7port turbo, odn77t, hong nor 053, on TQ30%fuel in an Xray808 hope you like the vid... first drive on the new layout so a couple bobbles and a tube jump....ya im guilty i had a tire comin off lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc5Hx7hY3vM

I love my GOs!

hey where would I get the little brown o-ring thats inside the carb throat on the 5 port. I switch to a different carb, and when I went to switch back I noticed that the o-ring was a little beat up. I think I had a leak from there as well.

what is putting a hsn needle at flush. well what does flush mean