Like the article says, you only idle one tank through then put the car on the ground and start running it around (in figure of eights is good as it makes you vary the throttle up and down which is what is required during break in).

Remember, you are trying to idle a super tight brand new motor which is running very rich. It will propably load up and stall from time to time. No big deal. You could lean the LSN a touch if it is really loading up badly. Once you start running it on the ground with some throttle input this shouldn't be a problem anymore.

Follow the procedure as described re the number of tanks and rev limits. When you have done the 12 tanks simply lean the LSN until you get good performance (probably around 2.5 in from flush - use the steady idle and/or pinch test to adjust) and leave the HSN flush for a while until the pinch goes away. Motor should run sweet like this, just being a little rich on top end which is what you want until the pinch goes (around 1.5 gal). Then you can lean the HSN a few hours and maybe the LSN a few more hours too for final race tune. This is for the newer long LSN needle carbs, as they tune a little different than other engines. You basically leave the HSN at flush and tune for performance with the LSN as described by various people throughout this thread.

Everytime I attempted to put the car on the ground and run it, it would simply stall out. Thats when I decided to idle another tank keeping the proper temps in an effort to loosen it up a little and help with the idle. I also would like to point out that this motor is one of the brand new batches that just made it to Race Factor last week. I was told that the LSN is shorter like the old versions.

When in doubt, lean it out.

Just picked up a 3p Sport and a 3p R from AMain. The Sport is in my dad's Inferno MP7.5 and the R is in my Turmoil Pro. Broke them both in on a Hudy bench using the heat cycle method.

The Sport was easy to start and get running, but I found you need to spend a bit of time getting it tuned. The Race was harder to actually get running without messing with the needles. Once there, I didn't have to touch the needles at all!

So far I'm impressed with both engines and look forward to getting past the mechanical pinch so I can tune for the track.

Referring to grizz, If you read the instructions in the motor book. you Idle two tanks before you even dare to move the buggy. then its the figure eights with slight turns on the hsn. MALIK. I am running my 21. 7 port turbo and I have an 8 in it. I do have the seven but it is not needed. That eight will be perfect in a buggy.

Malik, I run the 6mm (from amain) in my 5pt. It still has enough power for my track. I wish i had timed runs after I changed inserts but I didn't. There is also a kit from go- tech that has 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8 I bought mine from rccompound, also seen them on holeshothobbies. The inserts for the v-spec carb will fit the go carb.

After 2 tanks I put it on the ground and 1/4 throttled it around. It's still stupid fat at the bottom and stalls once or twice when I start and take off the ignitor until it's up to temp. Then she's good. Iv'e only put 6 tanks on it and will lean the lsn maybe 1-2 hours next time to see if she keeps idle when cold.

with 6 tanks ideling when cold is only hurting the engine, if you insist on ideling it, then at least keep foil on the head with a heat gun on it, or lean the lsn to get a more consistant idle, this fat setting on bottom will alow it to die when removing the igniter, running these engines cold during breakin only reduces the overall life of the rod and wrist pin, and is killing the sleeve taper, it will reduce the amount of compresion it will hold after metal pinch breaks, keep heat in it and it will last much longer, just trying to help. good luck

Brian,

If you are still sending me that pipe, I have a new address.

LMK!

Colin

Use the IDRC carb venturis....I'm running a 7mm in my PTM 3R on Tilted fuel and almost getting 10 min with no noticable loss of power anywhere. I just got a 6mm insert that should allow me to PIT at the 10 min. mark safely.

Tanks 1-2 idled on starter box w/foil and temps above 220. It was stupid rich on low end and would not idle without ignitor. Tanks 3-6. I got temps of 220-250 running it around on asphalt.

Thanks for the help everyone........on the third tank, I did lead the LSN slightly and things are much better. It holds an idle wothout the igniter, I was able to do my first pavement run without stalling etc. Temps are still 220-250 and there is still some raw fuel coming out of the pipe as well as plenty of smoke.

Well guys, I gave it my best shot but I have decided to throw the towel in. I am going to list my 7 port on ebay soon but thought I would give you guys first option. If you interested send me a PM. I am taking offers right now and will sell the engine alone or with the dynamite .053 pipe as a combo. The engine will come with a new p3 and a couple of used but almost new P3s.

This is the story, the engine has less then 2 gallons on it and has not been overheated. It was broken in using the heat cycle method after heating it up before turning the motor over. The engine doesn't have anything wrong with it, I just couldn't figure out how to tune it. It screams for about 3 minutes worth of racing and then starts losing power. I have tried all kinds of tuning but I just couldn't get it to work. This past Saturday, one of the cooling fins broke off it it, other then that the engine is in good condition.

If you interested, let me know via PM because I will probably have it on ebay by tomorrow or Tuesday at the latest.

Just going on what ProTwister mods article recommends. Like Brian says, the more you idle these motors without getting them up to temp, the worse off you are. I have only ever idled one tank through all my motors and then put them on the ground and run them as recommended at the temps they are meant to operate at, by using foil on the cooling head for those first 12 tanks. Have not had motor, rod or compression problems ever.
As stated, those needle settings are for the long LSN's. If you have one of the new batch with the older shorter LSN installed, then the needle settings may well be different. I have only run the Go's with the longer LSN and find they run wicked if tuned as described.
Just passing on what works for me

Hey Pete, that's a bummer mate