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Originally Posted by vnmsgt
(Post 4438374)
That is exactly how I like to drive, like to be real smooth in the tight sections. That is how my RR is. I think your explanation was exactly what I was looking for. I am running with Novarossi's, Ninja, RB's with my RR and am the same as you with them spinning alot from too much torque and pushing and I can stay in front, not a packed track either and is real loose.
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Originally Posted by cherokee180c
(Post 4442560)
The last thing I forgot to mention is that the run time is insane. I was getting 11 minutes with no insert and 13 with a 7.5mm insert on the 7port. I pushed the first pit till 10 minutes last week in the Amain, but the lean problem scared me into pitting for a splash and go at 19 minutes in. The pit man said I had plenty of fuel left to make it the entire way, but I wanted to richen up the motor a bit with a full tank. I am going to seal the backplate and carb this week and push to only 2 pits in our 30 minute main next weekend.
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quick question. Is there a standard plug button available for the 5 and 7 ports? Thanx
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Im still waiting to break in my 3 port. It is the one with the black case and coral head. It has also been modded by Rick Brake. My question is what are the plugs I need to use in this motor?
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I've had the best luck with an Odonnel 97t plug.
Yes you can get the 5 and 7 port in a standard button, you can buy the buttons are pretty cheap and have both. Rex |
Originally Posted by mugenb46
(Post 4442300)
Hey guys, if you havew the newest batch of race 3 ports check the internals, they are revised compared to the first run, they are getting very v-specish.
nova carbs will work in the GO engines, as well as oS v spec carbs, the v spec feels more like the GO carb, the Nova feel more punchy on bottom, like the old GO carb. My settings on my race 3 port are 1 turn in on top from flush, and at least 3 turns in on bottom, if i run 1.1 at all it's over. i use a Dynamite 086 and Tilted 30%, and 22 thous squish, and the same carb that it came with. over 6 gallons. |
I'm currently using the 8mm venturi...should i remove it completely or try to find a 9mm?
Will it give more bottom end power? |
Originally Posted by mugenb46
(Post 4442300)
Hey guys, if you havew the newest batch of race 3 ports check the internals, they are revised compared to the first run, they are getting very v-specish.
also anyone have a good trick to getting the flywheel off? the one on my 7 port doesn't want to budge, i tried heating it up and still nothing. |
Originally Posted by smracer31
(Post 4442958)
What do you mean v-specish? are they not as good as the first run?
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Originally Posted by smracer31
(Post 4442958)
What do you mean v-specish? are they not as good as the first run?
also anyone have a good trick to getting the flywheel off? the one on my 7 port doesn't want to budge, i tried heating it up and still nothing. |
Originally Posted by smracer31
(Post 4442958)
also anyone have a good trick to getting the flywheel off? the one on my 7 port doesn't want to budge, i tried heating it up and still nothing.
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Originally Posted by air8
(Post 4442987)
On my engines I put the snout of the crank on the table with the exhaust port facing up. Then lightly tap around the circumference of the flywheel to loosen it up. But don't go crazy. Just keep tapping on each side and around the flywheel till it loosens up.
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I use a small pully puller from the auto parts store. I think I paid 15.00 dollars for it. It does a great job without taking a chance of doing damage to the crank, flywheel, and front bearings. Thanks for the quick reply on th glow plugs.
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Anyone used a .25 6 port in a truggy yet?
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Originally Posted by vti-chris
(Post 4442940)
I'm currently using the 8mm venturi...should i remove it completely or try to find a 9mm?
Will it give more bottom end power? |
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