Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 4417791)

It's not too hard once you have a coupe of gallons on the motor, but can be tricky if the wrist pin and con rod top end are still new and tight (hence the tool mentioned), but you shouldn't need that if your motor is run in some.

Take backplate off

Take cooling head and button off

Remove sleeve from crankcase. There are several methods. I find using a plastic tie through the exhaust port then using the piston to gently nudge the sleeve upwards works. Depending how much movement you get you may need to push the sleeve up from underneath by getting a plastic stick, or an ice block stick (nothing metal !!) and pushing on the bottom of the sleeve from through the backplate area.
Once the sleeve is up far enough, prise it out carefully with a screw driver under the lip.

Now the piston is free enough to slide the con rod over to one side and pop the bottom end of the crankshaft. Lift out piston and rod.
Note that the piston skirt is to the rear, and the grooved side of the con rod with the oil gallery holes is to the front of the motor. "Very important these go back in the same way".

Pop the G clip and remove the wrist pin and con rod. Fit your new rod with a bit of afterun oil on the wrist pin, then re-install the G clip.
I like to dunk the internal parts in some fuel before re-assembly to clean of any grit that may have got on them and to lube them up a little.
Put the piston back in to the crankcase and slide the con rod over to one side so you can fit it back onto the crank. You wil need to do this at TDC so you get enough sidways movement in the rod to fit it on.
When you have the rod back on, place the piston at BDC and slide the sleeve back in, carefully fitting the piston back into the bottom of the sleeve as you go.
Reassemble button and cooling head. Then fit backplate with some RTV sealant around the edges for a good airtight seal and your done.
Run a couple of easy, slightly rich tanks through to bed the new rod in then give it heaps :D

Originally Posted by cherokee180c (Post 4422792)

I only added the winning comment to let others know how good these motors are. I have yet to get beat on HP alone and my 7 port .21 w/053 pipe pulls almost every .28 at the track, including high dollar modded motors, down the straight away.

My engine did get hot at the end of the main. It was around 255 deg. F at the end of the run. It normally runs around 230 deg. or below, which it did in the 5 minute qualifiers. It was definitely lean cycling down off the HSN, which made it a bi_ch to drive. I don't think the neddles are turning as it seems fine for 10 minute runs. I am using Byrons Gen 2 30% fuel, which I love, and an OS P7 turbo plug (It was around 75 degrees and very sunny on Sunday). Again I have no prior nitro experience except with Helicopters and planes so I really don't know what I am doing with the engine, but I am an old ex sponsored electric on road guy so I have some good technical ability. I did notice a bit of dirt buildup around the back plate screws, which may have adherered to some oil leaking out, so I tighted the plate screws up a bit. They probably turned another 1/8 turn until I thought they were really snug. How do I pressure or leak test or should I just seal certain areas?

Thanks

Originally Posted by mbx5rcr34 (Post 4418276)

i have been reading some suggestion & COMMENTS about this go 3R,the recommended pipe is 2047 i checked a main & its really surpise me on the price ,my question is what other pipe will match the 3R ,CAUSE RIGHT NOW i got the ttr2035 & 053,i will be running on a new layout,its a bigger track this time , i would say its technical of course w/140ft straight ............honestly i'm excited on the new track ........so i decide to get this GO 3R , some peeps saying it has (smooth powerband)like vspec

Originally Posted by cherokee180c (Post 4423893)

Assuming it is an air leak somewhere, how do I seal the carburator? Just pull it off and smear the RTV silicone on the side and put it back in? What about the backplate? Just a bit more detail please.

It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?

Originally Posted by cherokee180c (Post 4423893)

Assuming it is an air leak somewhere, how do I seal the carburator? Just pull it off and smear the RTV silicone on the side and put it back in? What about the backplate? Just a bit more detail please.

It seems from your temperatur range that I did not get too hot, but if I seal everything and the issue still continues, what should I be richening up, the low or high end? I am thinking the low end since it won't come back directly to a low idle, is this correct?