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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

grizz1 05-05-2008 02:25 PM


Originally Posted by Arkansas revo (Post 4416237)
All right guy's I got one for ya'll to think about. I have a Xray XT8 with a Go 5pt standard plug running o.s A-3 Sidewinder 30% and a 007ht pipe a Xray alum. clutch with i think 1.0 springs. The motor has almost 2 gallons on it. My needle settings are as follows and have been with in 1 to 2 hours since break in top needle 1/16 of inch down in barrel low needle 1 turn in from flush the motor has ran well temp about 225 to 235. run time 7-8 minutes no problem. Here we go this weekend i decided I wanted to get rid of some of the snap on the low end so I changed to a MIP carbon clutch and i wanted a little more top end so on went the 086 dyn pipe. Same weather conditions as last weekend when I raced. I started out with the top needle out 2 hours from where it had been temp too cool only 185 to 195 not real good power so i started leaning on top and bottom up to 4hours still temp only 195 to 205 at best and fuel run went to barely 5 minutes? I realize going from aluminum clutch to carbon could explain some temp difference but I never could get the low end power good enough to suit me it almost seemed like it had a lean bog never temped above 208 I was afraid to lean it any more sense every one seems to run top needle flush. Any way I put my 007ht pipe back on and re tuned a little quickly got my usual 225 temp back and right back to 8 minute run time So I still would like a little more top end should I havekept leaning the top and bottom with the 086 pipe??? or do i have something else wrong? BTW the frount bearing shows no sign of leaking idles perfect and still have to use heat gun to start first time every day great pinch. Sorry for such a long post but any help mush appreciated!!!

You might try leaning the LSN some more. The 5 Ports do like a lean bottom. I run the 5 Port Turbo (and standard plug sometimes) with a Dynamite 086 and it is great. HSN is pretty much flush with barrel but LSN is in a fair way. 6 min heats leave me with 1/3 of a tank still remaining, so will run 8 min no problems. Temping at 240 - 245 at bottom of tank. Hope this helps.

petevette 05-05-2008 04:38 PM

Brian Carey, you have PM

rawdawgga 05-05-2008 04:50 PM

3port
 
brain carey pm me also. thx

clebo3 05-05-2008 05:21 PM

I seen a couple pages back the go carb restricters. I didn't find where to buy them at, and haven't seen them anywhere I know to look. Thanks for any info.

derricklong38 05-05-2008 06:24 PM

[email protected]

He is Rex, he had them a few weeks ago

slaytanic 05-05-2008 07:09 PM

Well I am getting ready to put a new con rod in my 5 port. I have only changed 1 before. Any suggestions? WHich order should parts come out. I have heard it can be difficult with these and dont wanna jack it.

Jesussaves 05-05-2008 07:22 PM

slaytanic,

Page 55 of Go Tech engines, has a tool to remove rod

Borik 05-05-2008 07:23 PM

Which GO Tech motor would be a good pairing for a JP-3 pipe on a jammin X1 CR buggy?

mugenb46 05-05-2008 07:36 PM


Originally Posted by Borik (Post 4417368)
Which GO Tech motor would be a good pairing for a JP-3 pipe on a jammin X1 CR buggy?

3 port and 5 port turbo:nod:

grizz1 05-05-2008 09:31 PM


Originally Posted by slaytanic (Post 4417299)
Well I am getting ready to put a new con rod in my 5 port. I have only changed 1 before. Any suggestions? WHich order should parts come out. I have heard it can be difficult with these and dont wanna jack it.

It's not too hard once you have a coupe of gallons on the motor, but can be tricky if the wrist pin and con rod top end are still new and tight (hence the tool mentioned), but you shouldn't need that if your motor is run in some.

Take backplate off

Take cooling head and button off

Remove sleeve from crankcase. There are several methods. I find using a plastic tie through the exhaust port then using the piston to gently nudge the sleeve upwards works. Depending how much movement you get you may need to push the sleeve up from underneath by getting a plastic stick, or an ice block stick (nothing metal !!) and pushing on the bottom of the sleeve from through the backplate area.
Once the sleeve is up far enough, prise it out carefully with a screw driver under the lip.

Now the piston is free enough to slide the con rod over to one side and pop the bottom end of the crankshaft. Lift out piston and rod.
Note that the piston skirt is to the rear, and the grooved side of the con rod with the oil gallery holes is to the front of the motor. "Very important these go back in the same way".

Pop the G clip and remove the wrist pin and con rod. Fit your new rod with a bit of afterun oil on the wrist pin, then re-install the G clip.
I like to dunk the internal parts in some fuel before re-assembly to clean of any grit that may have got on them and to lube them up a little.
Put the piston back in to the crankcase and slide the con rod over to one side so you can fit it back onto the crank. You wil need to do this at TDC so you get enough sidways movement in the rod to fit it on.
When you have the rod back on, place the piston at BDC and slide the sleeve back in, carefully fitting the piston back into the bottom of the sleeve as you go.
Reassemble button and cooling head. Then fit backplate with some RTV sealant around the edges for a good airtight seal and your done.
Run a couple of easy, slightly rich tanks through to bed the new rod in then give it heaps :D

Borik 05-05-2008 10:54 PM

5 port with turbo plug?

vti-chris 05-06-2008 01:07 AM

I posted a while back about my problem with the carb moving slightly without being able to turn or anything.
I would like to ask you though, because i don't want to "touch" it now, if there is even the slightest risk of it coming off or creating a leak.
I do have silicone on the carb neck but don't know if that will hold it if it comes loose!!

grizz1 05-06-2008 02:27 AM

I think your pretty safe vti-chris. I ran mine like that for quite a while and it stayed in place fine, no leaks either.
I am going to replace that bottom O Ring on mine in the next couple of days.
Will grind down the pinch bolt as suggested and see how it goes. Will let you know if that fixes the side movement problem :cool:

mbx5rcr34 05-06-2008 02:47 AM

go 21 3R
 
i have been reading some suggestion & COMMENTS about this go 3R,the recommended pipe is 2047 i checked a main & its really surpise me on the price ,my question is what other pipe will match the 3R ,CAUSE RIGHT NOW i got the ttr2035 & 053,i will be running on a new layout,its a bigger track this time , i would say its technical of course w/140ft straight ............honestly i'm excited on the new track ........so i decide to get this GO 3R , some peeps saying it has (smooth powerband)like vspec

mugenb46 05-06-2008 03:56 PM


Originally Posted by mbx5rcr34 (Post 4418276)
i have been reading some suggestion & COMMENTS about this go 3R,the recommended pipe is 2047 i checked a main & its really surpise me on the price ,my question is what other pipe will match the 3R ,CAUSE RIGHT NOW i got the ttr2035 & 053,i will be running on a new layout,its a bigger track this time , i would say its technical of course w/140ft straight ............honestly i'm excited on the new track ........so i decide to get this GO 3R , some peeps saying it has (smooth powerband)like vspec

os pipes work well with the 3 port, i run a 086 with mine and it rocks, the 2050 is strong on it also. The JP3 really helps the bottom if you like it more bunchy, i have yet to try the 2035, but i have heard good things about it, they really wake the v spec up.

Borik, yes the 5 port turbo, it doesn't play well with others:sneaky:


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