what is his PM or name online so I can pm him....


Thanks

I just got a call back from Russell, if you had a problem with a engine send a PM or email and he will fix it for you:nod:

PM address Rocket42

thanks mugen! ill send him a pm now

I wont mess with pulling the piston out for now.. eventually i will have to figure it out when i decide to do a rebuild tho

anytime bud, when you have some runtime on the engine the rod will come right off, and puting onw back on when new is a cake walk. Good luck

Holy Crap batman:batman: it's Jason Halvarson lol

whats a good plug for the 5pt standard?

OS A3 is what i run on the standard's it needs to be the short plug, what ever you run.

I PM'ed Rocket42.. just waiting to hear back...


Thanks for all the help....

Hello to all - Some of you may recall I had a problem with my 5 Port Turbo blowing plugs all the time. Problem now solved, and I just wanted to post this so anyone reading the previous threads would know that this problem was in no way anything to do with the engine, but was my bad tuning (newbie, but learning fast :rolleyes:).
With some sound advice and help from RETRO RC (Adrian) the mystery was solved. I had fallen into the common mistake made by people new to these engines of having the idle gap set too wide, and running with a way too rich bottom end (1.5 turns !!) and a lean top end (1.25 turns !!). Believe it or not the engine ran pretty good, but got hotter as I progressed through the tank of fuel. Part of the problem was trying to tune the engine at home without enough space to run at high revs and set the top end properly first. So my tuning will be done at the track on race days from now on :nod: I thought both my 5 Ports went well before, but now they are running to their true potential they are really awesome :sneaky: Thanks Adrian.
So to anyone else new out there. If your engine has an erratic idle, comes in idling fast and then suddenly drops revs, runs ok but gets to hot at the end of a tank - check your idle gap and LSN settings. Set the idle gap to around .7 mm (barely open). Tune the top end for good power with plenty of smoke. Then set LSN for a smooth idle with no sudden drop in revs and a good smooth take off after sitting for 10 secs or so. Finally adjust idle if necessary. :cool:

Its because of the tight tolerances between the rod and crank pin .. as said .. its no use taking it out if your intenting on returning it ..

I wouldn't send that back as it's a 3port rspec sleave and it's probably my choice over the 7 port at the mo with the right pipe combo- 2047 with the shortest header you can get your hands on it will have more bottom end be smoother and have almost if not as much top end just my thoughts:D

Also Grizz1,
nice to hear you happy with the new tune, there is probably more we could get out of them just didn't wan't to make them too insane for you just yet:lol:
happy to help anytime

Adrian:tire:

any word guys?

Anyone know of anywhere I can get a good price on a 3 port, that has fast shipping, and will take paypal? Trying to find something for this weekend.

thanks guys

hi,
i have return from six month break from racing.
i have noticed that there is new 3 port race engine.
how does it compare to the 7 port (power, power band, runtime) and how does it compare to the other manufacturers top of the line engines?