it's his first or second tank, I doubt it's the glow plug unless it's used or got a bad one.

true but i have had plugs foul during break in, its very rare but it does happen, and with the difficulties he had getting the engine running its a possibility.

I would try a new plug, and keep the heat gun nearby. I had to keep a heat gun on mine for the first six tanks. Best advice I can give is to be patient, the result is well worth it:nod::nod::nod:

Hey smracer31, how many shims are you running under
the head button? I have always ran one thick copper
and one thin copper head shim on all four of my GO motors,
from the first time that they were fired up. I run them from
the begining on 30% nitro and have never had a glow plug
blow. Keep the HSN a little fat and they never stop pulling.

1 copper, 1 silver

What glow plugs are you useing?

p3, nitrotane for fuel

Mabey the new plug was bad? If you didn't live three thousand
miles from me, I'd say bring it over and we would get it broke in.
I just bought a bunch of P3's, P6'S and O'Donnell 77T's from a
friend for cheap. I would like to help find out what is giong
with your motor. Can anyone in SoCal offer to help?

The engine has close to 3 gallons on it.. so its plenty broken in. I have the 3 port race engine as well as my friend 5 port i tune. I will tear the 7 port down and see if i can see anything going on, re-seal it etc.

Nice one vnmsgt. Those settings seem to solve most problems !!
I don't think the needle thing is really that much of an issue. It´s more that these Go engines tune different from most other engines, and if that´s the case, so be it. As long as the engine runs hard when you have the tune correct, you can´t ask for more than that.
The needles are very sensitive, especially the LSN, but once you get it right - bingo !! A lot of the guys running Go´s down here have the long LSN needles and we don´t seem to have too many problems. We have several really good tuners in our group that have the tuning sorted and the rest of us feed off their input.
I have just changed to a fuel with 5% less oil content than what I was previously running and found I needed to lean both needles just a little. LSN is now in just a hair over 2 3/4 and I leaned the HSN about 2 hours.
You have to allow a bit of leaway on those base settings to allow for fuel, pipe etc, but if you use the flush HSN / 2.5 in LSN as a starting point you are never far off it would seem.

Oh, if thats the case, check the rod bushings and bearings
for wear. Sorry for the mis-understanding, my fault.

Yes I thought it weird to tune with the LSN, never did that before but hey if a bunch of you guys have done I was going to give it a try. It is hard though not to really touch the HSN that much. Most times that is the first thing that comes to mind.

The needles being wrong is what causes these engines to tune different. The "good tune" window is very small....and usually is found by using the lsn the most which is completely backwards from all other engines. Also...out of the box the needle settings are not far from race tune. People instinctivley reach to the hsn to lean out some during break in....it's almost perfect out of the box. These engines tune almost totally from the lsn.....sometimes even when you have high engine temps (280+ deg. F.) leaning the lsn will make it better if your hsn is set properly....usually around flush.:nod:

I also strongly recommend that everyone seal the slide boot to the carb....it can suck dirt in here. It will pull dirt while your WOT...then push it into the carb when off throttle. When the dirt builds up.......it falls into the engine equalling a bad day and a toasted engine.

My '08 PTM 3R is running great with no tuning problems....I will gladly help anyone with their tuning problems if I can.

Shane Keller

205-281-3089

thanks shane

as for the engine shutting off after removal of the GP, i get this sometimes when breaking in engines, the OS plug can sometimes be bad right out of the box, just the way it is, but also as stated before the hsn is set almost perfect, i now fatten it up befor breakin about 1 full turn, the lsn is set fat, this is what can cause the engine shutting off when you pull the GP. lean it on bottom some and it will idle when you pull it off, bump the idle up a bit and your good, i like to see little spirts of fuel popping out of the carb during breakin idle, this is telling me it's plenty fat on bottom and is well lubed, as you turn the lsn you will notice this go away, so leave it for the whole breakin. and with the HSN set a full turn out from flush it will allow you to tune in a more common way, but only lean till you reach flush or a smidge below, and then hit the lsn

Iv done it the way brain has suggested ..and it works...I kinda had a hard time getting the lsn to turn smooth...so i removed it and installed a new oring..use a very light amount of grease(dont go carzy here),,and the lsn was so very easy to turn to find the sweet spot...

My friend has a 7port and gave up got a nova carb...

Once you has it set.leave it..and your done..
thanks brain :)