Team Magic G4
#9886
I tap them with a screw driver on the back.
But yes takes some patience.
But yes takes some patience.
#9887
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
hi guys...
where are you buying cars and a STEADY supply of parts in the US.....all I get is mesaages stating TM does not have a US distributor...and TM's OWN site says wolf hobbies in CA.....with only a PO box for an address....not good...
where are you buying cars and a STEADY supply of parts in the US.....all I get is mesaages stating TM does not have a US distributor...and TM's OWN site says wolf hobbies in CA.....with only a PO box for an address....not good...
#9888
hey guys , I need some advice ...
at EVERY club race I seem to have problems with the lower arms - fronts or rears ... the hole where the ball screw (the one that holds shock cups) goes in breaks / cracks ... its so annoying ...
I have gone through so mane lower arms that I lost count by now...
why is this happening? It almost seems like its a very soft material ...
at EVERY club race I seem to have problems with the lower arms - fronts or rears ... the hole where the ball screw (the one that holds shock cups) goes in breaks / cracks ... its so annoying ...
I have gone through so mane lower arms that I lost count by now...
why is this happening? It almost seems like its a very soft material ...
#9889
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
hey guys , I need some advice ...
at EVERY club race I seem to have problems with the lower arms - fronts or rears ... the hole where the ball screw (the one that holds shock cups) goes in breaks / cracks ... its so annoying ...
I have gone through so mane lower arms that I lost count by now...
why is this happening? It almost seems like its a very soft material ...
at EVERY club race I seem to have problems with the lower arms - fronts or rears ... the hole where the ball screw (the one that holds shock cups) goes in breaks / cracks ... its so annoying ...
I have gone through so mane lower arms that I lost count by now...
why is this happening? It almost seems like its a very soft material ...
The new kits ( latest batch ) has a longer ball stud that screws into the arm - the part # is 115029.
Before these came out, I would super glue the ball into the arm - it helps, but try and get yourself these.
#9890
Quick question. Is there any way to modify the front one-way to make a solid axle? I have a few oneways i'm not using.
#9891
I've only had this problem twice after a big, big shunt ( lots of air time )
The new kits ( latest batch ) has a longer ball stud that screws into the arm - the part # is 115029.
Before these came out, I would super glue the ball into the arm - it helps, but try and get yourself these.
The new kits ( latest batch ) has a longer ball stud that screws into the arm - the part # is 115029.
Before these came out, I would super glue the ball into the arm - it helps, but try and get yourself these.
The problem I am having is NOT the ball studs coming out but them cracking the arm/hole .... I'll post few pics tonight to illustrate ...
I was thinking of putting a STRONG cable tie around the two hole bit in hopes to help sturdying that whole section ... dont know ... its just annoying loosing shocks and springs ... costs a fortune!
#9892
Tech Regular
iTrader: (24)
Omarko - you could try boiling the arms for 10 minutes in hot water. Apparently this takes some of the brittleness out of the new arms. I gave it a go - it did not warp the arms at all nor did it makle them bind, but I sold the car before I had a chance to run it and see if it made a difference. It could be worth a try, along with a longer threaded ball stud as posted above.
#9893
thanks for the tip, I might try that this week ....
btw what shock oils would u guys recommend to use ?
btw what shock oils would u guys recommend to use ?
#9897
#9898
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
#9899