nc racer

iTrader: (1)

ok guys,

i need some help again.

I have the g4+ and have bought an orion wasp .12 to put in it. is there anything i need to know to put this in, any settings on the ufo2 clutch i need to do? I bought the skyline pipe and header to go with it, if that helps at all.

sorry if these are stupid questions, as some of you know this is my first nitro car and i want to make sure i dont mess it up before i can race it.

thanks!

razzor

That gearing is rather long, is your track a fast, flowing, large track ???
Found the motors get lazy with the longer 50t 1st gear.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

WC upgrade kit does NOT come with the K-Factory Bell crank (I hope I understand what you are trying to say)...the K-Factory Bell crank and the inserts are K14118 and K14118-2

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prodshow.php?id=478

http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prodshow.php?id=479

blee

G4WC

ALG

blee,
great looking TM!!!!!
do you have a driver for the car???? just joking around! I wish to have something like your car,
GREAT WORK
have fun
ALG

blee

Yes, you should have one bro.!

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

well...my track is not small...about 20s per lap with a 70m straight.

i tried 16/50 and 21/45 but i find that the 2nd gear maxout at about the 3/4 mark of the straight. that's why i'm thinking of using 22/46.

16/50 is indeed abit lazy...

btw, i'm using the IDM evo3. what gearings u guys normally use?

ALG

I like the car to be 100% reving 3/4 to 7/8 on the main straight, remeber not the faster car at the main staraight is the fastest around the track.


keep tuning

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

I have used the kyosho CRF in this car, and found that because the engine makes its power so much further up the rev range than everything else the car needs to be geared a lot lower.

When I ran the CRF, I was using 15/52 - 20/47 and felt that I could have still geared it lower ( lowest possible gearing with ED ) - that was even using 61mm tyres....

With the LRP that I currently use ( very similar to the IDM ) - I use 16/51 - 20/46 almost everywhere, haven't been top a track that needed any higher gearing.


Re. fastest on the back straight - not really, but you want to try to get to your top speed as quickly as possible.
HTH

razzor

On my PR12 i run 15/52 or 15/51 for 1st gears and 21/46 or 21/45 depending on the tracks back straight.
On the Mega DSII i run a 16/51 and 21/45, this motor just seems to like a little longer 1st gear gearing.
Both motors the clutch makes a huge difference too and i only use the Mugen hard spring.
Have never needed to gear any longer for top end, always had plenty speed.

British Menace

Remember though,
It really does depend on your tire size too.

If you like to run a large tire, 60mm or above. Your gearing will be different to if you were to run small tires, Ex: 56mm

This is called rollout and is a better way to determine your gearing rather then just pinion and spur sizes.

Just as an Example. I ran a recent ROAR National race with 56mm Front, 58mm Rear tires. The back straight was around 220 to 240 ft long, (estimate )
I used 16/21 pinion and 51/45 spur's. This gearing was good but by the end of the final. Tires were down to just under 55mm front and 57mm rear!! And my gearing was too low. Next time I would use 17/22 Pinion and 52/47 spur.
(Maybe try 16/22 and 50/47 spur to see)

You should really look at the motor topping out by 3/4 of the way down the straight. To be at full rev on the motor like this for a short period of time each lap is actually good for the motor and will help you get an optimum tune on the motor to ensure your not running too lean. On a fuel run-out test. My motor was still able to get 6.5mins before running out !! Although this unfortunately came down during the final Which meant I was not able to pit one less time then the competition......... (Lossed a small advantage there.)

Regards,
British Menace

Omarko

iTrader: (7)

finished building mine last night .... looking good, now I have to set up the car b4 the weekend





I ended up with few of the silver shims that are included (there are 2 thicknesses). I did not use them in the rear under the bulkhead sides as I did not have the need to but I had to use them in the front under the alu mounts for the flying arms as the spool would be hitting the frame ...

also, the rear sway bar ... you need the Kfactory one, K14130 .... the original TM one does not have the screw to secure it in one place and its shaft is too long so you cant use really ... well I did but wont race like that ..

anyway, will let ya all know how the car handles on the track on Sunday !

British Menace

Looks nice omarko.
Very nice. Makes me want one even more !! .Lol

What motor are you going to put into it?

Regards,

British Menace

Omarko

iTrader: (7)

thanks ! yeah I reckon it look really nice .... love the chassiss

I am currently using a small Nova (S12) ... which is perfect for me as I am still learning to drive this beast

I also have RB R3 V12 but thats little bit too punchy for me atm ...

nc racer

iTrader: (1)

frustration is putting together your brand new g4+ kit and realizing they didnt include a vital piece of the clutch.

so, after reading some comments on here, am i to assume that the ufo clutch is a POS? you all talk about using a mugen spring, should i just toss the yellow spring my clutch came with?

help out a newbie peeps, y'all aree making a 33 year old man feel like a little kid tugging jumping up and down trying to get the big kids attention :-)