Z00M

iTrader: (15)

5.2mm washer goes on the inside closest to the engine, and the 5mm washer goes on the outside. Yes it is referring to the inside diameter.

British Menace

Hi Steve,
I have also seen this problem when building the car too.
Sometimes all it needs is to leave the baulkhead screws loose (the ones from underneath) Then try to add the bracket.
Then tighten the screws. See if that works.

Sometimes I've found this works, sometimes I've had to drill/file the bracket holes out. Check also the pins are not bent, I doubt they are. But try to leave drilling the bracket as a last resort Steve.

Try dissmantling the front end, then re-assembling it. Just doing this caused the problem to go a couple of times I had it. I think It's just an assembly problem, but like I've said. I have ended up drilling the bracket out on a couple of occasions!!

Hope this helps.

British Menace

British Menace

Good job Zoom. You beat me to it......lol

Hows that M1B Turbo looking? Started to build it yet?

British Menace

Stroker Ace

iTrader: (5)

Thanks Zoom. I've had it both ways and it seemed fine either way. What happens if I get it backwards?

RC-ProSpeed

iTrader: (8)

How is most of you gus are setting up the drive ratios of the G4S, do you guys overdrive the front wheels or underdrive the front wheels.

Any Chart table???

Perez

iTrader: (4)

THanks Tony! i think im gonna have to drill it out just a hair. I spent a long time trying to make it right without having to resort to that!

Stroker Ace

iTrader: (5)

Perez -

I had a bind in my front end at the top of the travel. As it turns out, the aluminum sway-bar mount/hinge pin mount was touching the chassis when the suspension traveled to the top. I ground a little material off the aluminum mount and that fixed it. Making the hinge pin hole larger didn't help in my case.

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

If you get it backwards, it has a slightly inconsistent action for the clutch as the inner washer has to move more than the outer one.

grub

gidday patto
imagine your lap times if you had picked up on the engine mount earlier...
mate my bag of broken bits says it all about our track it carnage central
on your car .

RAMPAGE

i tried a set of 35 shore devils on the weekend first outing with the g4s and found that i had no grip what so ever front sway bar at 90, rear at 0 and car was very taily could 35 be to soft giving less side bite tha a firmer tyre

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i would swap your sway bar settings end for end. try the rear at 90 or 45 and set the front to flat. also try the shock mods and experiment with different shock oils. never really had a problem with grip levels after the shock mods. also what springs are you using front and rear ?

RAMPAGE

what are the shock mods i am using the standard silver springs

RAMPAGE

shouldnt my settings lead to understeer not excessive oversteer going sideways on long sweeper

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

the shock mod is quite simple. if you have a dremmel you may have a 1.2 mm drill bit. i dont have one so i use a 1.5 drill bit. for the rear i drill out both the piston holes to 1.5mm. front i start with one hole drilled out. also many use between 35-60W oils for the shocks. kit oil i think is 60W. do take your time refilling your shocks and to bleed all the air out. do measure your rebuilt shocks, make sure each one is exactly the same length after screwing the shock end back on. you may want to look at buying a spring kit as it will improve the options for you to use different springs. one thing i have found with the car, when you harden the front it becomes more reactive to directional changes, this can upset the rear of the car immensly. if you have more info of your setup , im sure others may have their say as well. but once the shock mod is done , the rear grip increases, then you may have lack of steering issues. starts all over again. lol.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i think Menace said something before about theories, while they are good , doesnt always work on the track. im not saying your wrong, or im right. but as i said in the previous post. i ran the spped shot front end on the lower outer setting roll center. i hardened the front up, the car was so sensitive to directional changes, it sent the rear end spining out with no consistency at all. another thing to try is to run harder front tires than the rear, tires are an easy way to tune the car, but not always the best way. also if your running the ED trans ? you must use a tire split, smaller fronts than rear by 2mm, if they are the same size then the rear end starts to drive the car aound the corner, thus prone to over steer. so maybe best to post your setup and see where we can help with it.