Team Magic G4
#7891
Hi,
Does someone have a full listing (part #'s) of which pinions fit the ufo 2?
I bought some gears and they do not fit. They are k-factory but i guess they where for another model g4 clutch.
Thanks
Does someone have a full listing (part #'s) of which pinions fit the ufo 2?
I bought some gears and they do not fit. They are k-factory but i guess they where for another model g4 clutch.
Thanks
#7892
Tech Addict
Hello vc05hdt,
no, i run the XRay.
I only make a report and a test of the G4+ for the importator.
The review is updated..
http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?f=4&id=6633
#7893
You probably have the stock transmission pinions.
What you need is the ED pinions and bell.
14122-15 15T first gear pinion
14122-16 16T first gear pinion (stock!)
14122-17 17T first gear pinion
14122-20 20T second gear & bell housing.
14122-21 21T second gear & bell housing. (Stock)
14122-22 22T second gear & bell housing.
Hope this helps.
British Menace
#7894
Hi British Menace,
I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.
I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.
I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.
I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.
I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
#7895
Hi British Menace,
I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.
I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.
I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.
I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.
I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
K14111 --- 23T
K14112 --- 24T
K14113 --- 25T
K14189 --- 18T
K14190 --- 19T
K14191 --- 20T
The First gear pinions run around $8.50
The second gear pinions go for $8.90 or so.
Best of luck.
British Menace
#7896
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Hello vc05hdt,
no, i run the XRay.
I only make a report and a test of the G4+ for the importator.
The review is updated..
http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?f=4&id=6633
no, i run the XRay.
I only make a report and a test of the G4+ for the importator.
The review is updated..
http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?f=4&id=6633
do take your time and build it the right way as this may take away from the testing on the track you will be doing. when you have assembled the rear can you take a pic of the rear drive shafts, and how they sit in the diff cups. the G4S came with shims to put on the axle before the bearing, the G4+ doesnt have them. be carefull how far the axles sit in the diff cups, as in the short position they dont sit in far enough , and in the long position they sit in too far, then the suspension binds, just like mine did. i ended up using 2 of these shims from the G4S on each side and had the Cv's in the short position. the drive shafts fit well into the cups now and is safe for no more binding.
#7897
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
ok it seems you have the swaybar holders around the wrong way. left to right. if the eccentric still works then it should be ok like that. sorry
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
#7898
Tech Apprentice
ive got a couple of questions, i am new to racing nitro, been racing electric for 3 years now so my knowledge is very limited, first one i had the car running a little bit today just to make the sure the car is turing over and i noticed that after it got warm the engine when i breaked still ran fast, if i gave it a blip on the throtle most times it would go back to idle, any ideas there ( i have a novarossi engine )
also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated
cheers
also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated
cheers
#7899
Idle
ive got a couple of questions, i am new to racing nitro, been racing electric for 3 years now so my knowledge is very limited, first one i had the car running a little bit today just to make the sure the car is turing over and i noticed that after it got warm the engine when i breaked still ran fast, if i gave it a blip on the throtle most times it would go back to idle, any ideas there ( i have a novarossi engine )
also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated
cheers
also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated
cheers
It sounds as though your low speed needle is set too rich.
Set your high speed needle first. To get it reasonably close, use a temp gun and get the motor to run at around 225 degrees. After 3 to 4 mins of high speed runs.
Then try leaning down the low speed mixture screw. I would do it in 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Run the car again for a good 2 to 3 mins and come in. If the motor still idles high then the revs come down on their own. The motor is still running too rich on the low end.
If the motor now idles high and stays high, try turning the idle screw counter clockwise to bring this down.
It should idle nice and steady for 5 to 10 secs and still take off at full throttle with out any delay!
Try it
British Menace
#7900
Tech Apprentice
When the motor is fully warm, when come in and the motor is idling, does the engine revs come down itself without blipping it first?
It sounds as though your low speed needle is set too rich.
Set your high speed needle first. To get it reasonably close, use a temp gun and get the motor to run at around 225 degrees. After 3 to 4 mins of high speed runs.
Then try leaning down the low speed mixture screw. I would do it in 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Run the car again for a good 2 to 3 mins and come in. If the motor still idles high then the revs come down on their own. The motor is still running too rich on the low end.
If the motor now idles high and stays high, try turning the idle screw counter clockwise to bring this down.
It should idle nice and steady for 5 to 10 secs and still take off at full throttle with out any delay!
Try it
British Menace
It sounds as though your low speed needle is set too rich.
Set your high speed needle first. To get it reasonably close, use a temp gun and get the motor to run at around 225 degrees. After 3 to 4 mins of high speed runs.
Then try leaning down the low speed mixture screw. I would do it in 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Run the car again for a good 2 to 3 mins and come in. If the motor still idles high then the revs come down on their own. The motor is still running too rich on the low end.
If the motor now idles high and stays high, try turning the idle screw counter clockwise to bring this down.
It should idle nice and steady for 5 to 10 secs and still take off at full throttle with out any delay!
Try it
British Menace
i will try what you suggest and let you know how i get on
thanks
#7901
ok it seems you have the swaybar holders around the wrong way. left to right. if the eccentric still works then it should be ok like that. sorry
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
ya beat me to it
i noticed you are running the softer springs on the rear also did you find that planted the rear????i also had my rear sway bar at 90 dec to compansate the rear grip ......were running on the new track as we have extended the north end buy 2 seconds,should be interesting no one has run on it ,as the rain wont stop.ill catch ya on the 19 th mate ,there will be 10 of so far...grub
#7903
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
giday patto
ya beat me to it
i noticed you are running the softer springs on the rear also did you find that planted the rear????i also had my rear sway bar at 90 dec to compansate the rear grip ......were running on the new track as we have extended the north end buy 2 seconds,should be interesting no one has run on it ,as the rain wont stop.ill catch ya on the 19 th mate ,there will be 10 of so far...grub
ya beat me to it
i noticed you are running the softer springs on the rear also did you find that planted the rear????i also had my rear sway bar at 90 dec to compansate the rear grip ......were running on the new track as we have extended the north end buy 2 seconds,should be interesting no one has run on it ,as the rain wont stop.ill catch ya on the 19 th mate ,there will be 10 of so far...grub
#7904
Tech Addict
something didnt look right when i looked at the pic. seems the adjuster for the swaybar is on the wrong side. that adjuster sits in the frontof the swaybar and is used to balance the tension on each side so the car isnt tweaked. they are on an eccentric so they put different loads on each blade.
do take your time and build it the right way as this may take away from the testing on the track you will be doing. when you have assembled the rear can you take a pic of the rear drive shafts, and how they sit in the diff cups. the G4S came with shims to put on the axle before the bearing, the G4+ doesnt have them. be carefull how far the axles sit in the diff cups, as in the short position they dont sit in far enough , and in the long position they sit in too far, then the suspension binds, just like mine did. i ended up using 2 of these shims from the G4S on each side and had the Cv's in the short position. the drive shafts fit well into the cups now and is safe for no more binding.
do take your time and build it the right way as this may take away from the testing on the track you will be doing. when you have assembled the rear can you take a pic of the rear drive shafts, and how they sit in the diff cups. the G4S came with shims to put on the axle before the bearing, the G4+ doesnt have them. be carefull how far the axles sit in the diff cups, as in the short position they dont sit in far enough , and in the long position they sit in too far, then the suspension binds, just like mine did. i ended up using 2 of these shims from the G4S on each side and had the Cv's in the short position. the drive shafts fit well into the cups now and is safe for no more binding.
Hello from France,
pattojnr, you're right for the front swaybar holders, but I prefer doing this because I the straight design it makes. It works fine...
I can adjust without shims on the cvd shaft, inside or outside hole of the bulkhead. Because the shaft have two positions to put the pin. You can modify easily the length of the CVD.
Enjoy
#7905
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Hello from France,
pattojnr, you're right for the front swaybar holders, but I prefer doing this because I the straight design it makes. It works fine...
I can adjust without shims on the cvd shaft, inside or outside hole of the bulkhead. Because the shaft have two positions to put the pin. You can modify easily the length of the CVD.
Enjoy
pattojnr, you're right for the front swaybar holders, but I prefer doing this because I the straight design it makes. It works fine...
I can adjust without shims on the cvd shaft, inside or outside hole of the bulkhead. Because the shaft have two positions to put the pin. You can modify easily the length of the CVD.
Enjoy