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Old 08-10-2007, 04:03 PM   #7891
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Hi,

Does someone have a full listing (part #'s) of which pinions fit the ufo 2?

I bought some gears and they do not fit. They are k-factory but i guess they where for another model g4 clutch.


Thanks
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Old 08-10-2007, 04:14 PM   #7892
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Originally Posted by vc05hdt View Post
Romuald, have you retired X Ray NT-1? You must have as big a collection of RC cars like me.

Hello vc05hdt,
no, i run the XRay.
I only make a report and a test of the G4+ for the importator.

The review is updated..

http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?f=4&id=6633



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Old 08-10-2007, 04:38 PM   #7893
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Originally Posted by charlesd View Post
Hi,

Does someone have a full listing (part #'s) of which pinions fit the ufo 2?

I bought some gears and they do not fit. They are k-factory but i guess they where for another model g4 clutch.


Thanks
Hi Charlesd

You probably have the stock transmission pinions.

What you need is the ED pinions and bell.

14122-15 15T first gear pinion
14122-16 16T first gear pinion (stock!)
14122-17 17T first gear pinion

14122-20 20T second gear & bell housing.
14122-21 21T second gear & bell housing. (Stock)
14122-22 22T second gear & bell housing.

Hope this helps.

British Menace
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Old 08-10-2007, 05:05 PM   #7894
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Hi British Menace,

I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.

I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.

I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
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Old 08-10-2007, 05:53 PM   #7895
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Originally Posted by charlesd View Post
Hi British Menace,

I have the mongoose which i upgraded to a g4s but i did not install the ed transmission yet.

I still have the stock transmission but with the the ufo2 clutch. the pinions #'s i need are the 23-24-25 and 18-19-20 tooth.

I'll see the price and if it's not worth while, then i'll go ED.
Then you need,

K14111 --- 23T
K14112 --- 24T
K14113 --- 25T

K14189 --- 18T
K14190 --- 19T
K14191 --- 20T

The First gear pinions run around $8.50
The second gear pinions go for $8.90 or so.

Best of luck.

British Menace
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:19 PM   #7896
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Originally Posted by romuald31 View Post
Hello vc05hdt,
no, i run the XRay.
I only make a report and a test of the G4+ for the importator.

The review is updated..

http://www.yome3000.com/forums-lire.php?f=4&id=6633



something didnt look right when i looked at the pic. seems the adjuster for the swaybar is on the wrong side. that adjuster sits in the frontof the swaybar and is used to balance the tension on each side so the car isnt tweaked. they are on an eccentric so they put different loads on each blade.
do take your time and build it the right way as this may take away from the testing on the track you will be doing. when you have assembled the rear can you take a pic of the rear drive shafts, and how they sit in the diff cups. the G4S came with shims to put on the axle before the bearing, the G4+ doesnt have them. be carefull how far the axles sit in the diff cups, as in the short position they dont sit in far enough , and in the long position they sit in too far, then the suspension binds, just like mine did. i ended up using 2 of these shims from the G4S on each side and had the Cv's in the short position. the drive shafts fit well into the cups now and is safe for no more binding.
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:34 PM   #7897
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ok it seems you have the swaybar holders around the wrong way. left to right. if the eccentric still works then it should be ok like that. sorry
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
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Old 08-10-2007, 07:52 PM   #7898
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ive got a couple of questions, i am new to racing nitro, been racing electric for 3 years now so my knowledge is very limited, first one i had the car running a little bit today just to make the sure the car is turing over and i noticed that after it got warm the engine when i breaked still ran fast, if i gave it a blip on the throtle most times it would go back to idle, any ideas there ( i have a novarossi engine )

also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated


cheers
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:48 PM   #7899
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Originally Posted by judge10tpt View Post
ive got a couple of questions, i am new to racing nitro, been racing electric for 3 years now so my knowledge is very limited, first one i had the car running a little bit today just to make the sure the car is turing over and i noticed that after it got warm the engine when i breaked still ran fast, if i gave it a blip on the throtle most times it would go back to idle, any ideas there ( i have a novarossi engine )

also i have installed the ED trans, what else would make the car better, i have read most of the posts in this thread and it has helped with a few things and is much appreciated and other ideas that would help this newbie would be appreciated



cheers
When the motor is fully warm, when come in and the motor is idling, does the engine revs come down itself without blipping it first?
It sounds as though your low speed needle is set too rich.

Set your high speed needle first. To get it reasonably close, use a temp gun and get the motor to run at around 225 degrees. After 3 to 4 mins of high speed runs.
Then try leaning down the low speed mixture screw. I would do it in 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Run the car again for a good 2 to 3 mins and come in. If the motor still idles high then the revs come down on their own. The motor is still running too rich on the low end.
If the motor now idles high and stays high, try turning the idle screw counter clockwise to bring this down.
It should idle nice and steady for 5 to 10 secs and still take off at full throttle with out any delay!

Try it

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Old 08-10-2007, 09:00 PM   #7900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
When the motor is fully warm, when come in and the motor is idling, does the engine revs come down itself without blipping it first?
It sounds as though your low speed needle is set too rich.

Set your high speed needle first. To get it reasonably close, use a temp gun and get the motor to run at around 225 degrees. After 3 to 4 mins of high speed runs.
Then try leaning down the low speed mixture screw. I would do it in 1/8 of a turn at a time.
Run the car again for a good 2 to 3 mins and come in. If the motor still idles high then the revs come down on their own. The motor is still running too rich on the low end.
If the motor now idles high and stays high, try turning the idle screw counter clockwise to bring this down.
It should idle nice and steady for 5 to 10 secs and still take off at full throttle with out any delay!

Try it

British Menace
cheers, yes sometimes it comes down and sometime it revs high, hope that helps

i will try what you suggest and let you know how i get on

thanks

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Old 08-10-2007, 09:57 PM   #7901
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
ok it seems you have the swaybar holders around the wrong way. left to right. if the eccentric still works then it should be ok like that. sorry
but do check to see if there is enough of the hinge pin in the bulkhead as it may be weakened a little by not having the extra 2mm sitting further in the bulkhead.
giday patto
ya beat me to it
i noticed you are running the softer springs on the rear also did you find that planted the rear????i also had my rear sway bar at 90 dec to compansate the rear grip ......were running on the new track as we have extended the north end buy 2 seconds,should be interesting no one has run on it ,as the rain wont stop.ill catch ya on the 19 th mate ,there will be 10 of so far...grub
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:24 PM   #7902
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i tried removing the front and rear roll bars. i found it cornering better. keke..
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:44 PM   #7903
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giday patto
ya beat me to it
i noticed you are running the softer springs on the rear also did you find that planted the rear????i also had my rear sway bar at 90 dec to compansate the rear grip ......were running on the new track as we have extended the north end buy 2 seconds,should be interesting no one has run on it ,as the rain wont stop.ill catch ya on the 19 th mate ,there will be 10 of so far...grub
went down to the track today for some testing with the car and to run the track anticlockwise. i can say the changes i made had great results. no rear end problems at all. so then i started changing things. i started with pink springs on rear and aqua on front. the rear swaybar on the softest setting. the rear was planted. i then changed to 45 deg on rear swaybar, turn in improved immensly but a bit taily as a result. i then tried toget some more on power steering, and ran 2mm clips at rear of front arm (before was 3mm) overall very happy with the setup, but may back the sway bar off a little. but Grub ! bring your brakes with you, or you will need lots of spares some very interesting spots on the track where i can see things going really bad
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Old 08-11-2007, 12:55 AM   #7904
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something didnt look right when i looked at the pic. seems the adjuster for the swaybar is on the wrong side. that adjuster sits in the frontof the swaybar and is used to balance the tension on each side so the car isnt tweaked. they are on an eccentric so they put different loads on each blade.
do take your time and build it the right way as this may take away from the testing on the track you will be doing. when you have assembled the rear can you take a pic of the rear drive shafts, and how they sit in the diff cups. the G4S came with shims to put on the axle before the bearing, the G4+ doesnt have them. be carefull how far the axles sit in the diff cups, as in the short position they dont sit in far enough , and in the long position they sit in too far, then the suspension binds, just like mine did. i ended up using 2 of these shims from the G4S on each side and had the Cv's in the short position. the drive shafts fit well into the cups now and is safe for no more binding.

Hello from France,
pattojnr, you're right for the front swaybar holders, but I prefer doing this because I the straight design it makes. It works fine...

I can adjust without shims on the cvd shaft, inside or outside hole of the bulkhead. Because the shaft have two positions to put the pin. You can modify easily the length of the CVD.



Enjoy
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Old 08-11-2007, 01:21 AM   #7905
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Originally Posted by romuald31 View Post
Hello from France,
pattojnr, you're right for the front swaybar holders, but I prefer doing this because I the straight design it makes. It works fine...

I can adjust without shims on the cvd shaft, inside or outside hole of the bulkhead. Because the shaft have two positions to put the pin. You can modify easily the length of the CVD.



Enjoy
thats right the CV's are adjustable length. but the problem is there are no shims before the inner hub bearing anymore. there used to be on the G4S. the G4+ kit doesnt have them. problem i found is when setting the rear track width, the short CV setting, didnt sit in the diff cup as i would have liked. the long setting sits in better, but may bind with suspension travel. what i ended with is the short setting with 2 of the G4S shims, now im happy where the pins sit in the diff cups. thats what i was trying to say.
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