Team Magic G4
07-03-2007, 05:52 AM
#7471
additional side stiffener
additional side stiffener..
i used engine mount.
i used engine mount.
07-03-2007, 06:14 AM
#7472
anyone have issues with drive shafts and kfactory lightened drive cups not messing right!
have a problem that with new G4+ rear lower fly wing arms, and the drive shafts not messhing right:
the problem is i have new drive cups in, the pivot ball screws that adjust TOE IN / TOE OUT all the way in as far as i can before they touch arms, and still the standard drive shafts fall out after i fitted the top camber link "keep in mind this is new flash rear hub carries!
I am trying NOW new kfactory CV drive shafts and they seem to fit a bit better, but more worried about the toe tin toe out adjustment left which is miniumal
ill check in later again to see if i fixed the problem, but i think its still not resloved - GANSEI you have this problem beofore?
HINGE PINS on the arms are on the outside location hole, not inner as there is two new settings to adjust to now!!!
have a problem that with new G4+ rear lower fly wing arms, and the drive shafts not messhing right:
the problem is i have new drive cups in, the pivot ball screws that adjust TOE IN / TOE OUT all the way in as far as i can before they touch arms, and still the standard drive shafts fall out after i fitted the top camber link "keep in mind this is new flash rear hub carries!
I am trying NOW new kfactory CV drive shafts and they seem to fit a bit better, but more worried about the toe tin toe out adjustment left which is miniumal
ill check in later again to see if i fixed the problem, but i think its still not resloved - GANSEI you have this problem beofore?
HINGE PINS on the arms are on the outside location hole, not inner as there is two new settings to adjust to now!!!
pls see the photos.
if you use NT1 wheel hub... you must insert thin washer between wheel hub and bearing..
if you did not use washer.. wheel hub will interfere bearing.
and you can cut off sus arm edge.. to reduce rear width
Last edited by gansei; 07-03-2007 at 06:21 AM. Reason: mod2
07-03-2007, 06:15 AM
#7473
Fixed the wheel rear track, i placed PIN bottom into the inner hole!!!
B4 wheel track OUTER HOLE was 210mm - Wonder why they made this system so WIDE
Then i put into the inner hole - Wheel Track rear 198mm - Much better NOW!!!
crazy crazy crazy!!!! LOL
B4 wheel track OUTER HOLE was 210mm - Wonder why they made this system so WIDE
Then i put into the inner hole - Wheel Track rear 198mm - Much better NOW!!!
crazy crazy crazy!!!! LOL
07-03-2007, 10:50 AM
#7474
Wellwere do I start.......
Had the nats this past weekend and what a eventful nats it was.
I had no issues with the my car and have to say proudly that i broke my personal best lap time on my home track not once but 3 times which is unfortunately the only plus i came away with.
Daz/Muppets spool setup really worked exceptionally well for me and have to say thanks to him for advice recieved.
I was the only guy running a harder tyre setup and it worked well for me.The Serpent/Mugen guys seemed to be running 37 shore all round with the top guys running 45rears cut down to 26mm up front.
I used 42 fronts, 40 rears.
First 2 heats i had dnf's, running out of fuel and posted a 11 lapper in teh 3rd heat that placed me in 2nd in the Dmains.
In teh final heat of the day i was much faster than my previous runs and posted my fastest lap ever on my home track taking a 1.6 seconds out of my previous best.
Unfortunately another car had a problem on the track and a warning was called over the PA that a car was out on the back straight, I was going up the middle straight at the time and hit the car in question.I was then given a stop and go penalty and protested the call as they called for the back straight.Why should i be penalised for a incorrect warning call !!!
My protest wasnt entertained and was called a unfortunate incident
Looking at my times i was on pace for a high Bmain placing and possibly low Amains.
In my final I got off to a good start and went straight into the lead.
After my first pitstop i had a flame out and got going after losing a lap to the other runners only to flame again.
Thinking i was to lean we richened the engine a touch and i got out and started to gain on the guys and managed to unlap myself once and again after a pitstop i flamed.I had the engine leaned out again and got going and all was good untill i had the 1st gear spur come loose and lost drive.I had recovered to 3rd at one stage but finished 8th at the end.
Of the 3 G4S cars running we got one car of Raymond Loots who qualified
2nd in Bmains and he managed to finish with a 7th overall out +- 50 drivers.
Still happy though as i know i have improved my pace
Casimirsa had hassles getting the car to handle and got a reasonable handling car until his throttle servos packed up in the mains.
One issue that has me baffled is Casimirsa's problem of running through clutch shoes very fast.
Similar problems to Gansei but that said he is not doing anything different to what i am or most other G4S guys
He has used like 5 shoes in just over 3/4 events.
On clutch i tried the JP hard spring and it was awesome
clutch setup is :
.5mm gap
.1 endplay
black flyweights with 1 weight
black shoe
JP super hard spring with 1mm preload
on 2 speed i have no hassles and make sure i run shoe as close as possible to 2 speed housing and have changed the stock 2 speed springs to stiffer ones i found in my TM spares.Not sure of part number but i think its a older part number from the G4.Has thicker wire and less coils than stock G4S ones.
one key thing is to thread the grub screw into shoe with loctite or super glue as the grub screw comes loose after a few runs.
Had the nats this past weekend and what a eventful nats it was.
I had no issues with the my car and have to say proudly that i broke my personal best lap time on my home track not once but 3 times which is unfortunately the only plus i came away with.
Daz/Muppets spool setup really worked exceptionally well for me and have to say thanks to him for advice recieved.
I was the only guy running a harder tyre setup and it worked well for me.The Serpent/Mugen guys seemed to be running 37 shore all round with the top guys running 45rears cut down to 26mm up front.
I used 42 fronts, 40 rears.
First 2 heats i had dnf's, running out of fuel and posted a 11 lapper in teh 3rd heat that placed me in 2nd in the Dmains.
In teh final heat of the day i was much faster than my previous runs and posted my fastest lap ever on my home track taking a 1.6 seconds out of my previous best.
Unfortunately another car had a problem on the track and a warning was called over the PA that a car was out on the back straight, I was going up the middle straight at the time and hit the car in question.I was then given a stop and go penalty and protested the call as they called for the back straight.Why should i be penalised for a incorrect warning call !!!
My protest wasnt entertained and was called a unfortunate incident
Looking at my times i was on pace for a high Bmain placing and possibly low Amains.
In my final I got off to a good start and went straight into the lead.
After my first pitstop i had a flame out and got going after losing a lap to the other runners only to flame again.
Thinking i was to lean we richened the engine a touch and i got out and started to gain on the guys and managed to unlap myself once and again after a pitstop i flamed.I had the engine leaned out again and got going and all was good untill i had the 1st gear spur come loose and lost drive.I had recovered to 3rd at one stage but finished 8th at the end.
Of the 3 G4S cars running we got one car of Raymond Loots who qualified
2nd in Bmains and he managed to finish with a 7th overall out +- 50 drivers.
Still happy though as i know i have improved my pace
Casimirsa had hassles getting the car to handle and got a reasonable handling car until his throttle servos packed up in the mains.
One issue that has me baffled is Casimirsa's problem of running through clutch shoes very fast.
Similar problems to Gansei but that said he is not doing anything different to what i am or most other G4S guys
He has used like 5 shoes in just over 3/4 events.
On clutch i tried the JP hard spring and it was awesome
clutch setup is :
.5mm gap
.1 endplay
black flyweights with 1 weight
black shoe
JP super hard spring with 1mm preload
on 2 speed i have no hassles and make sure i run shoe as close as possible to 2 speed housing and have changed the stock 2 speed springs to stiffer ones i found in my TM spares.Not sure of part number but i think its a older part number from the G4.Has thicker wire and less coils than stock G4S ones.
one key thing is to thread the grub screw into shoe with loctite or super glue as the grub screw comes loose after a few runs.
07-03-2007, 10:57 AM
#7475
anyone here who has a good set-up for an indoor track using a spool? pls. pm me or send mail
many thanks!
email: [email protected]
many thanks!email: [email protected]
07-03-2007, 10:58 AM
#7476
the gap between sus arm and hub is very tight!! when outer position used.
so you must cut off sus arm or use thicker wheel hub to use outer position.
and.. when you use inner position... you can proper rear width without mod
07-03-2007, 11:05 AM
#7477
i am happy that your pace was up!!
you had misfortune(flame out etc on..) in this race.. But you will get good result in next Race.
cheers!
07-03-2007, 11:07 AM
#7478
anyone here who has a good set-up for an indoor track using a spool? pls. pm me or send mail many thanks!
email: [email protected]
many thanks!email: [email protected]
front spool setup...
kitade(japnese driver) guide front spool setup like this...
rear diff must be soft (10000~30000)
and much rear toe-in required (about 3-4)
and rest setup(spring,shock-oil etc on..) is similar with one-way setup
07-03-2007, 11:21 AM
#7479
anyone here who has a good set-up for an indoor track using a spool? pls. pm me or send mail many thanks!
email: [email protected]
many thanks!email: [email protected]
Im sure its what you looking for and with a few tweeks should be what you need.
07-03-2007, 11:31 AM
#7480
07-03-2007, 12:18 PM
#7481
been reading the Xray setup manual for 1/10 electric and its very interesting.
Id suggest you guys download it and give it a read afterall knowledge is power
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525
some very interesting info that would definately apply to us racing gas.
Id suggest you guys download it and give it a read afterall knowledge is power
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525
some very interesting info that would definately apply to us racing gas.
07-03-2007, 05:24 PM
#7482
i used NT1 Wheel Hub to setup proper rear width (pivot ball too tight!!)
pls see the photos.
if you use NT1 wheel hub... you must insert thin washer between wheel hub and bearing..
if you did not use washer.. wheel hub will interfere bearing.
and you can cut off sus arm edge.. to reduce rear width
pls see the photos.
if you use NT1 wheel hub... you must insert thin washer between wheel hub and bearing..
if you did not use washer.. wheel hub will interfere bearing.
and you can cut off sus arm edge.. to reduce rear width
07-03-2007, 06:19 PM
#7483
i changed only rear hub..
07-03-2007, 07:11 PM
#7484
just a few snap shots from last night, was very busy working on car, its got new rear G4+ rear section, thou front is still G4S!
New engine onboard, still yet to fire up, will be doing hopefully next couple of days for some running time!
I am Using Kfactory new CV drive shafts for rear, now i have CV setup front and rear, is this good to use?
Also whats a good setup for the rear sway bar 0 / 45 / 90
anyways enjoy pics
New engine onboard, still yet to fire up, will be doing hopefully next couple of days for some running time!
I am Using Kfactory new CV drive shafts for rear, now i have CV setup front and rear, is this good to use?
Also whats a good setup for the rear sway bar 0 / 45 / 90
anyways enjoy pics
07-03-2007, 08:06 PM
#7485
just a few snap shots from last night, was very busy working on car, its got new rear G4+ rear section, thou front is still G4S!
New engine onboard, still yet to fire up, will be doing hopefully next couple of days for some running time!
I am Using Kfactory new CV drive shafts for rear, now i have CV setup front and rear, is this good to use?
Also whats a good setup for the rear sway bar 0 / 45 / 90
anyways enjoy pics
New engine onboard, still yet to fire up, will be doing hopefully next couple of days for some running time!
I am Using Kfactory new CV drive shafts for rear, now i have CV setup front and rear, is this good to use?
Also whats a good setup for the rear sway bar 0 / 45 / 90
anyways enjoy pics
if you don't mind, pls change rear upper link like this Link:
(Daz guide it)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=7401
i had a good feeling with the rear sway bar 45.
But more test is need