Don't know about the Hitec. But as an FYI, I know a Futaba receiver will work with your MX3. Good luck

Hi

When rebuilding your shocks how much rebound should you get?

Thanx

about half piston out after compression.

Thanks for the shock answer

got another , querey ,,

whre can i buy

Kfactory Part no K1319T mtx-3 5th middle body post.

Cheers

Hi you can find it here:



http://www.the-border.com/search.php?mode=search :)

so if there is only little movement? thanks :) can't see no leak anywhere though...

The problem is between the mounts and the main chassis...
The steel screws aren't doing the job... I guess the Ti ones won't either..
I was thinking of something heavier...
I'm gonna try swapping engines... as the JP maybe vibrating too much on the looooong 285ft straightway

But thanks for the input...

so if there is only little movement ????

Few answers to some questions in the last few pages:

Springs:

Purple - Light Blue - Blue - Grey - White
(Softest) to (Hardest)

Rear Blocks:
A Block is more for high bite tracks. It has Lower Rear RC which gives more roll ensuring better traction.
C Block is more for low bite tracks. It has Higher Rear RC which gives less roll and therefore making the car more stable in low traction conditions.
Use B blocks if you're uncertain.

Ackerman:
Have found that 'A' gives more on-power steering whilst 'C' gives more off- power steering. And again 'B' is the safest choice if you're unsure. Personally i find 'C' superb for my driving style. This is really a driver preference and how are the other components of the car setup. i.e. caster, shock positions, damping, etc.

Hope this helps.

Just another point...on rebuilding shocks and rebound rate from the dampers.

Generally the left and right should have the same rebound rate when compressed whether for the front or rear.

The faster the rebound = the faster the reaction of the dampers.
The slower the rebound = the softer the reaction of the dampers.

THis is determined by how fast you screw the shock caps at the top after refilling with oil. Faster screwing motion = faster rebound rate.

Bandeira, I have a racing pal who had similar problems to yours, for months. He checked eveything but couldn't find out what was causing the spur to strip. Finally he found out that the pinion was actually worned and was too sharp for the spur. You should also check you 2-speed shaft if its bent. this might cause inconsistent meshing between the spur and pinion.

Hope you can solve this.

This mainly depends on the viscosity of the shock oil and piton holes. Otherwise is could be because there is something binding un-naturally. check the internals of the shock.

Thanks for the input...
The pinion is brand new!
and so is the shaft...(My last steel one bent, this one is Titanium, even though I don't like very much Ti things...)
I'm really desperate... For next race i'm getting the mtx2 mounts... 1.0 module(even if my ratios get kind of tall) and changing engine...

I think you got it wrong for low bite and high bite track applications:

A rear block = give you the most body roll = more grip possibility

B rear block = pick this one

C rear block = give you the least body roll = slightly less grip.

Generally A block is preferable for drivers who want the most rear grip, while C block is suitable for drivers who want rear tires to slide at medium or low speed corners. B block is neutral.

You have just repeated what i had said in essence! :rolleyes:

I've also given the application of blocks as guide (low bite vs high bite application) - go try it out and you'll know. ;)