THE DOCTOR
Registered User


Harwood, MD

92 Posts Since Nov 2003 Yesterday, 08:47 PM Bubbles in fuel line | Post #1

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When I go out the engine runs fine for the whole tank. When I come in to refuel the engine will stall and I see bubbles in the fuel line. I have the fuel line going around the back of the engine as I have all last year and never had any problems. This year it is a spec. engine and I put new fuel line on it. I was wondering if I need to run the fuel line in front of the engine. Any thoughts? Thanks

TM Springs on the shocks
New upper front wishbones

is their a real date for the mtx4

nothing official. It will be running at the European Championships in August according to Mugen Europe. Dont think it will be released before that.

No, loosening the nut will actually give you worse acceleration. The reason you tighten the nut and put the lighter weights and harder spring is to make the engine have to rev up higher before the clutch engages. Think of it like popping the clutch on a real car. Our engines have more power as the RPM's go up. So the later you engage the clutch, the "harder" it will engage. You of course can go overboard with it. Too tight and the engine is like an on/off switch, it might be hard to come onto the throttle smoothly coming out of turns.

Use the same shims like the ones that control the gap on the thrust bearing. It doesn't tell you to use shims before the inside bearing on the manual. If you go to the MyTsn site, there's a Centax 1 setup guide that tells you this info about the shims. Mugen has like a bag with all kinds of shims, you can find them there, but many other brands make these engine shims too, just check with your LHS. Remember you want them really thin, so you can fine tune it. Good luck.

so do u recommend the prospec style clutch parts? do they alow for better tunning options? and when i shim the bearing will i have to adjust the amount of shims by the thrust bearing?

Just think of it like another tuning option. I just think it's nice to be able to play with setups. Clutch setups are key for the really fast guys. I live in Miami and always see the Serpent USA guys messing around with different clutch options until they get optimum performance.

You will probably have to remove some shims from the trust bearing, just make sure you set the endplay accordingly. Hope this helps

Here's that link on MyTsn for Centax setup. THat's one thing that's great about Serpent that no one compares to. Their explanations and setup guides.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10534

Hello there...

Havin Problems with the clutch springs...
From seeing them I can't tell which one is the harder or the softer...
They seem to have same tension(hand feel) and same colour...

About the Ackerman, is it right to say the A one gives the kmost steering?entry part? exit part of the turn?

thanks in advance...

The silver is the Hard, the gold is the stock.

I'm not so sure about the ackerman. A is supposed to have aggressive turn in, but I don't feel it, maybe it's my driving style, I don't know. I like the B the best. Never tried the C

About The colours... I do know that... I think my springs are just too old... I can't tell which one is the gold, which one is the silver...

As for the ackerman... I found the B smoother... But it seemed to lack in turning... I thing it would be nice in a track with not so many sharp turns

looks like you put 30mm tires in the frount insted of 26mm :flaming:

do anyone have a good droop setting for the mtx3?

droop
 

1 in thr front
5 in the rear

u must run a very low ride height?

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