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Old 04-15-2006, 12:40 PM   #4321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
Not enough to keep my MTX-3s. . I figured I'd keep one or two spare parts but the parts are so few not worth it.
The 1st gear ad 2nd gear housing are also interchangable along with the clutch(minus the clutchbell). Wheel hexs and front upper arms too.
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #4322
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What millimeter split do the tires need?

Last edited by performula; 04-15-2006 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:58 PM   #4323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by performula
What millimeter split do the tires need?
Depends on which front pulley and what kind of overdrive you are looking for.
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Old 04-15-2006, 03:35 PM   #4324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
The 1st gear ad 2nd gear housing are also interchangable along with the clutch(minus the clutchbell). Wheel hexs and front upper arms too.
Front upper arms are different. One is longer than the other. They ALMOST look the same though. I would not know the difference between the two.
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Old 04-15-2006, 03:48 PM   #4325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Front upper arms are different. One is longer than the other. They ALMOST look the same though. I would not know the difference between the two.
My mistake
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Old 04-15-2006, 04:51 PM   #4326
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Scott, the -3 front cvd's are the same right? I am stepping into the age of cvd's. I jusr got some but I got the ones for the -3. No more lost dogbones, just bent ones.
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Old 04-15-2006, 05:35 PM   #4327
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Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Scott, the -3 front cvd's are the same right? I am stepping into the age of cvd's. I jusr got some but I got the ones for the -3. No more lost dogbones, just bent ones.
Yes, the front Cvd's for both cars are the same and interchangeable. On my MTX3 I always ran the rear CVD's on all four corners. When I got my MTX4 I was told that you needed a longer CVD on the front and got the front CVD's for my new sedan. At that time all I had was 2mm offset wheels and when I set my front track width to 199mm I found that the CVD's were binding inside the outdrives. I use the MTX3 rear CVD's on the front of my MTX4. Even when I use 1mm wheels, I still have no problem with the MTX3 rear CVD's being too short. My hope/guess would be that when I go to a smaller offset than 2mm, the MTX4 front CVD's will not bind on the front of my car. As long as the CVD doesn't pop out I would prefer to use shorter CVD's so I can make my car as narrow in the front as I would like to.
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Old 04-15-2006, 09:23 PM   #4328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Scott, the -3 front cvd's are the same right? I am stepping into the age of cvd's. I jusr got some but I got the ones for the -3. No more lost dogbones, just bent ones.
As long as you got the Mugen ones then you will not bend them. I have broke two of them in the two years that I have been running nitro but never bent one. I know that some of the aftermarket ones do bend.
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Old 04-15-2006, 10:33 PM   #4329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
As long as you got the Mugen ones then you will not bend them. I have broke two of them in the two years that I have been running nitro but never bent one. I know that some of the aftermarket ones do bend.

I have bent them. They are definitely the best out of all the ones I have tried, but they will bend if you hit stuff on power running a one-way. I would still take a bent cvd over a broken one any day of the week.
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Old 04-15-2006, 11:11 PM   #4330
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Hi. hope someone can help.... i need to know what the hot set-up is for the mugen clutch on high bite tracks........i've been struggling with the k-factory one for the mongoose, and have decided to switch to mugen clutch...

i have a red black and grey clutch shoe........ which one provides the most slippage? i would like to know a good starting spot, and also what the different colors mean, compound wise........... i'm assuming the red is the best due to it's price

thanks in advance.................
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:13 AM   #4331
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can anyone tell the kyosho RRR front belt can be used in MTX-4 ? the hobby shop run out of stock and I wonder of rrr belt can be compatible. thank you.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:34 AM   #4332
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i think that only the side RRR belt will work but im not sure on the front
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Old 04-16-2006, 05:32 AM   #4333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonepalm4
i have a red black and grey clutch shoe........ which one provides the most slippage? i would like to know a good starting spot, and also what the different colors mean, compound wise........... i'm assuming the red is the best due to it's price
On high bite tracks I would try the red, if need a more grippier clutch, go with the yellow or grey shoes (beware with the grey: if isn't properly adjusted, you can burn it in very few time).
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Old 04-16-2006, 10:21 AM   #4334
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What is the rating between red, yellow, and grey clutch ? What kind of race condition for each different color ?

My stock's clutch is thinner now and I must buy replacement before Futaba Cup.
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:04 AM   #4335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
What is the rating between red, yellow, and grey clutch ? What kind of race condition for each different color ?

My stock's clutch is thinner now and I must buy replacement before Futaba Cup.


Red -> Yellow -> Grey

Red being most aggressive.
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