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Old 04-16-2006, 11:27 AM   #4336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Red -> Yellow -> Grey

Red being most aggressive.
You mean Grey is the hardest material ? more slip ?
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Old 04-16-2006, 11:29 AM   #4337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You mean Grey is the hardest material ? more slip ?
Black is still harder than the grey. Most people say that grey is the softest and gives the most aggressive engage... But I was never able to control my car coming out of corners with a red clutch.

So it would be:

Red -> Yellow -> Grey -> Black.
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Old 04-16-2006, 12:38 PM   #4338
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Default new motor

anybody know when this new motor gonna hit the state?
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:02 PM   #4339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dg8one
anybody know when this new motor gonna hit the state?

They are already ordered from Novarossi. Soooooonn
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Old 04-16-2006, 03:55 PM   #4340
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I am about to purchase an mtx4 and I am curious as to what spares and hopups that I should purchase right away? thanks
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Old 04-16-2006, 05:36 PM   #4341
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Option rear shock tower (necessary)

That is the only thing I think is necessary.

If you want to make life easier and/or make the car faster, there are many ways to improve.

Front CVD's
Rear CVD's
Aluminum wheel hexes
those can make life a little easier.

There is a ton of titanium stuff that will lighten the car, and/or the drivetrain and/or lower rotating mass.

Ti upper screw kit
Lightened 1st and 2nd gear housings
Hollow 2 speed shaft
Ti center shaft
Ti pillow balls

Depends on how much money you want to spend and how competetive you want to be.

There are plenty of companies that make this stuff. Some of them even make good stuff.

CVD's, only buy Mugen. I would also get the rear shock tower from Mugen. After that look at K-factory and Skyline.

Have fun. You are getting a great sedan.
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:11 PM   #4342
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If your not that of a good driver, get also some aluminum front arm holders. Im also using 5mm front shock tower (2 stock ones). I'd suggest you stick with rear dogbones since that is where most of the power is transferred to.
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:32 PM   #4343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Option rear shock tower (necessary)

Ti upper screw kit
Lightened 1st and 2nd gear housings
Hollow 2 speed shaft
Ti center shaft
Ti pillow balls

....

CVD's, only buy Mugen. I would also get the rear shock tower from Mugen. After that look at K-factory and Skyline.

Have fun. You are getting a great sedan.
Scott, do you use a Ti 2-sp shaft on your car? I have the 3Racing one and I have exactly the same problems I had when I had a 3Racing Ti shaft on my 710. The problem? After a few hours of use, pulling off the inner pinion gear becomes close to impossible. This is a major pain in the a**. I have to sand the shaft from time to time just so I can pull off the gears. I've ordered a Skyline shaft to replace the 3Racing shaft.

Anyone else with a 3Racing Ti shaft have this problem? Having the same problem on 2 makes of car isn't a good sign in my opinion.

As for makers, hey don't forget Kawahara. Their stuff is really great quality and has never let me down. Pricewise though, a little on the high side. But you know, my time has a price too and I don't have a lot of time to screw around with medium to low quality, 90 percent fit, random durability parts. A friend suggested the 3Racing 1-piece engine mount, which I bought. Great. Now I can't take off the clutch bell without a struggle.

Lesson learned. Going with Kawahara or Skyline.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Have fun. You are getting a great sedan.
Agreed! The MTX-4 put me in the A-main with the top drivers. For me, the best 1/10th I've ever owned.
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:37 PM   #4344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You mean Grey is the hardest material ? more slip ?
For me the experience has been to use grey when grip is good. I can get very good acceleration. I set the clutch spring (super hard) to 1.0-1.2mm. With yellow, the car's acceleration seems smoother, less aggressive, and has been very good when grip is low so it's what I use in that situation. I use the super hard spring and set it to 0.9 - 1.0mm with the yellow shoe.
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Old 04-16-2006, 07:45 PM   #4345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Wow! Thanks for the heads-up. This is the first time I've heard anything bad about 3Racing products - but then again, I haven't been hanging in here for too long. I've got a few 3Racing hop-ups on my V1RRR (throttle linkage, brake lever, brake bracket, side stiffener), but those are not drivetrain components. I was really tempted to buy the tire truer the other day, because it pretty much looks like the Hudy - and the titanium 9mm pivot balls, because I bent two of mine, but I guess I won't be getting them now!
For the tire truer, when out at practice or home it's what I use. For casual racers like myself it isn't a bad choice. But on race day, I'd don't have a lot of time and the Hudy cuts tires faster than the 3Racing and the measurement is a bit more accurate. When using the Hudy blade on the 3Racing truer, you need to compensate about 11mm since 3Racing blades are longer and their truer's measurement are calibrated for their blades. As for cost, I'm part of a team so all members pitched in and bought a Hudy. This way cost wasn't a big issue.
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Old 04-16-2006, 08:26 PM   #4346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Red -> Yellow -> Grey

Red being most aggressive.
me tried the red-grey-black,there is a different on my engine temperature which red givs me higher temp bout 5C extra.Dont know bout yellow..

I am gonna have to test the yellow too since this mid May is the Asian Mugen Finals in Suwon Korea..me the only 1/10 from M'sia attending..

by the way,do you guys think BRB is legal for the race?Ifmar?

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Old 04-16-2006, 08:33 PM   #4347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
If your not that of a good driver, get also some aluminum front arm holders. Im also using 5mm front shock tower (2 stock ones). I'd suggest you stick with rear dogbones since that is where most of the power is transferred to.
I don't know if I would get the aluminum holders. They'd be great if you stay off the walls but could end up costing you more for pins and A-Arms. At least with the plastic holders you could salvage the pins because they would break through, not rip the whole side of your front end off.

I wonder if Teknokit will have a version of the MTX-4?
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:41 AM   #4348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Scott, do you use a Ti 2-sp shaft on your car? I have the 3Racing one and I have exactly the same problems I had when I had a 3Racing Ti shaft on my 710. The problem? After a few hours of use, pulling off the inner pinion gear becomes close to impossible. This is a major pain in the a**. I have to sand the shaft from time to time just so I can pull off the gears. I've ordered a Skyline shaft to replace the 3Racing shaft.

Anyone else with a 3Racing Ti shaft have this problem? Having the same problem on 2 makes of car isn't a good sign in my opinion.

As for makers, hey don't forget Kawahara. Their stuff is really great quality and has never let me down. Pricewise though, a little on the high side. But you know, my time has a price too and I don't have a lot of time to screw around with medium to low quality, 90 percent fit, random durability parts. A friend suggested the 3Racing 1-piece engine mount, which I bought. Great. Now I can't take off the clutch bell without a struggle.

Lesson learned. Going with Kawahara or Skyline.



Agreed! The MTX-4 put me in the A-main with the top drivers. For me, the best 1/10th I've ever owned.
I have used a Ti 2sp shaft. I didn't have too much trouble getting stuff on and off of it. The problem I had was that the end where the 1st gear one way rolled wore down enough that it caused issues. When I got it I did have to sand it down just a little as it was a touch oversized. I have used the skyline hollow steel shaft and it was fine. I currently am using the k-factory shaft. It is also fine. I forgot that I also use the skyline one-piece engine mount.
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:45 AM   #4349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
me tried the red-grey-black,there is a different on my engine temperature which red givs me higher temp bout 5C extra.Dont know bout yellow..

I am gonna have to test the yellow too since this mid May is the Asian Mugen Finals in Suwon Korea..me the only 1/10 from M'sia attending..

by the way,do you guys think BRB is legal for the race?Ifmar?

BRB = berrylium piston sleeve ?

I think its okay but my friend was having problem with those berrylium P/S/R because the heat ate the filament 5 times. He said the engine temp for berrylium is set at 120 degree Celcius which I think is good operating temp for that. I think you need cooler glow plugs to compaensate higher engine temp.

Malaysia Boleh !!! Good Luck at Suwon
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:50 AM   #4350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
I have used a Ti 2sp shaft. I didn't have too much trouble getting stuff on and off of it. The problem I had was that the end where the 1st gear one way rolled wore down enough that it caused issues. When I got it I did have to sand it down just a little as it was a touch oversized. I have used the skyline hollow steel shaft and it was fine. I currently am using the k-factory shaft. It is also fine. I forgot that I also use the skyline one-piece engine mount.
I'm still using the original shaft. I heard lots of bad things when you replace the main shaft with titanium. Hollow steel is better than Ti.
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