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Old 04-17-2006, 01:03 AM   #4351
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i dont know if i missed out reading through,but does anybody got the solution for 2nd gear stripping and chasis flex?

asw,thx for the info,i was testing 1 of my friends brb,works very well and infact it outdo 5porters here.. colder plug?was doing 6tf.
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:36 AM   #4352
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
i dont know if i missed out reading through,but does anybody got the solution for 2nd gear stripping and chasis flex?
You can solve it with a correct gear mesh (in doubt, remove the circlip and the 1st gear) of the second gear, install the first gear then. A monoblock engine mount helps a lot. I have the Kyosho one installed and didn't stripped anymore a 2nd gear.
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Old 04-17-2006, 02:37 AM   #4353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
You can solve it with a correct gear mesh (in doubt, remove the circlip and the 1st gear) of the second gear, install the first gear then. A monoblock engine mount helps a lot. I have the Kyosho one installed and didn't stripped anymore a 2nd gear.
oo..dont you find the 2nd gear housing bit voble?could it be the affect?
Monoblock kyosho?3R u mean?any different from the stock height?
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:18 AM   #4354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I'm still using the original shaft. I heard lots of bad things when you replace the main shaft with titanium. Hollow steel is better than Ti.
As I said, I don't use a titanium shaft in this position.

To those having problems with second gear stripping, as advised by others, make sure you have a good mesh and use a one piece engine mount. I had two gallons on my car before I ever got a one piece mount, but I haven't stripped any gears yet. I now have more than three gallons of fuel on my car and I still haven't tossed one spur gear yet.
I hope these suggestions help as I just don't know why you guys are stripping gears. If your car catches air make sure you get off the gas before it lands.
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:03 AM   #4355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
oo..dont you find the 2nd gear housing bit voble?could it be the affect?
Monoblock kyosho?3R u mean?any different from the stock height?
Nope, I'm talking about the Kyosho Shimo monoblock engine mount (part no. TSW27). Tried to search one good photo of it, but haven't found one, click here to see an image of the engine mount. The difference in height should be negligible (haven't bothered of measuring the height it...bought, modded and installed and is there).

A true bolt-on is the kawahara ones - unavailable at my country, so this is why is used the shimo ones.

Regarding Titanium main shafts and others... Is not very wise to put a Ti shaft and make to run a bearing over it (the shaft will wear the one-way bearing). Much better to use a Steel shaft (the one I use is the Square hollow MTX3 shaft - superb quality and durability and much cheaper than the Ti shafts).

About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
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Last edited by Corse-R; 04-17-2006 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:40 AM   #4356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Nope, I'm talking about the Kyosho Shimo monoblock engine mount (part no. TSW27). Tried to search one good photo of it, but haven't found one, click here to see an image of the engine mount. The difference in height should be negligible (haven't bothered of measuring the height it...bought, modded and installed and is there).

A true bolt-on is the kawahara ones - unavailable at my country, so this is why is used the shimo ones.

Regarding Titanium main shafts and others... Is not very wise to put a Ti shaft and make to run a bearing over it (the shaft will wear the one-way bearing). Much better to use a Steel shaft (the one I use is the Square hollow MTX3 shaft - superb quality and durability and much cheaper than the Ti shafts).

About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
thx bro..actually me just wana get some feedback how u guys did on the stripping parts,i solved mine by doin the same thing u did,well it works well from the beginning til now.
the engine mount looks cool!cant et it here,but let me see if LHS can help me out.currently my car weight is just nice when i weight with 58mm tyres,1740g wit transponder&bodyshel, without fuel. With the hollow shaft,fron aluminium shaft,lightweight pulley adaptors,1/2 set Ti screws, it is a superb car to drive and race too..been doin podiums a with it..
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
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Old 04-17-2006, 05:01 AM   #4357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
About the brake disk support being stuck on the shaft is quite common. Is called galling. Is unsolvable, but you can alleviate it putting a dab of grease on the shaft previous to install the brake support.
1. Observe the holes position and follow the book. Use dremel to slightly enlarge the holes so the plates can move freely OR blast off the screw's threads where it touches the plates.
2. Use small springs between brake plates ( not necessary ).
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Old 04-17-2006, 05:24 AM   #4358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
If planning to get a one-piece engine mount, grab the kawahara ones. Just seen the other day one metal brace for the MTX-4.... just trying to remember where... Kawahara could be.

By the moment I don't need a more stiffer chassis (just remembered how changed my MTX3 when I put the 4mm chasis and all those stiffeners... sometimes was a bitch to drive). The stock chassis and the engine mount makes it harder where it was a little weak. Next week the kawa chassis will drop over my LHS, I'll take a look of it.
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Old 04-17-2006, 05:47 AM   #4359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
1. Observe the holes position and follow the book. Use dremel to slightly enlarge the holes so the plates can move freely OR blast off the screw's threads where it touches the plates.
2. Use small springs between brake plates ( not necessary ).
I was referring to the aluminium piece that holds the brake disk on the main shaft. Not the metallic plates that hold the brake pad.

Is a bad move to put small springs between the brake pads, doesn't work at all... been there, done that (tried for a time on my MTX3 too). Blasting the threads on the screws helps to get a free movement of the brake pads (did it when I was assembling my car).

I'll post a photo: The part I'm telling is the one where on one side has 3 pins to hold the brake disk and on the other side has a square where you put the pulley. Seen on the photo too the square main shaft I was talking previously, a beefy brake disk and the blue brake pads (if this doesn't stop your car... nothing will do it). Click here to see it.

P.D: The brake disk doesn't touches at any place, runs very near of the carb, but doesn't touches at all.
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Old 04-17-2006, 10:29 AM   #4360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
thx bro..actually me just wana get some feedback how u guys did on the stripping parts,i solved mine by doin the same thing u did,well it works well from the beginning til now.
the engine mount looks cool!cant et it here,but let me see if LHS can help me out.currently my car weight is just nice when i weight with 58mm tyres,1740g wit transponder&bodyshel, without fuel. With the hollow shaft,fron aluminium shaft,lightweight pulley adaptors,1/2 set Ti screws, it is a superb car to drive and race too..been doin podiums a with it..
but chasis flex and tweak i cant stand,and i dont trust the stock chasis can last even 3races..kawahara has comeout wit hardened 3mm chasis too..havent got a chance to see anybody on it..
The Kawahara chassis, i am not so sure if it is hardened but i know that it is slighter narrower and it should gives more flex aka grip.

By the way .. what engine you gonna run in Korea?
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Old 04-17-2006, 12:33 PM   #4361
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
I was referring to the aluminium piece that holds the brake disk on the main shaft. Not the metallic plates that hold the brake pad.

Is a bad move to put small springs between the brake pads, doesn't work at all... been there, done that (tried for a time on my MTX3 too). Blasting the threads on the screws helps to get a free movement of the brake pads (did it when I was assembling my car).

I'll post a photo: The part I'm telling is the one where on one side has 3 pins to hold the brake disk and on the other side has a square where you put the pulley. Seen on the photo too the square main shaft I was talking previously, a beefy brake disk and the blue brake pads (if this doesn't stop your car... nothing will do it). Click here to see it.

P.D: The brake disk doesn't touches at any place, runs very near of the carb, but doesn't touches at all.
Ok ... got it. You mean the three pins that hold the disc brake ? Don't blame the galling problem to the pins. In my case, the disc brake ( got it from mtx3 prospec ) unknowingly touch the bottom of the upper plate brake holder ( the plastic that holds rear bulkheads ). So I have to remove some plastic very thinly with dremel. Right now I have some play with the disc.

I don't know yours, but I suggest to look the bottom of the brake holder plate and see any sign of contacts.

BTW, Do you use mtx3 prospec disc brake or something else ? The holes for the three pins could be different in diameter between mugen originals vs third parties.

For the rest of you guys, keep it stock as in manual.... less headche !!
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:12 PM   #4362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Ok ... got it. You mean the three pins that hold the disc brake ? Don't blame the galling problem to the pins. In my case, the disc brake ( got it from mtx3 prospec ) unknowingly touch the bottom of the upper plate brake holder ( the plastic that holds rear bulkheads ). So I have to remove some plastic very thinly with dremel. Right now I have some play with the disc.
Nope, you haven't got it... the two pieces that welds together are the main shaft and the pulley adapter, not the pulley adapter and the brake disk.
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:01 PM   #4363
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I think it is caused by the setscrew backing off just slightly. When this happens, the shaft rotates back and forth in the gear adapter and causes this. It has happened to me(once ) I check that setscrew every run along with all of the others.
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Old 04-17-2006, 06:56 PM   #4364
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Default Rear CVD

Does anyone know where I can get the rear MUGEN CVD's and yellow clutch shoe? I'm in Southern California right now.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:07 PM   #4365
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Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
me tried the red-grey-black,there is a different on my engine temperature which red givs me higher temp bout 5C extra.Dont know bout yellow..

I am gonna have to test the yellow too since this mid May is the Asian Mugen Finals in Suwon Korea..me the only 1/10 from M'sia attending..

by the way,do you guys think BRB is legal for the race?Ifmar?

Hey Mavicxxx, I'll see you in Suwon. I live about an hour away. For this track you'll need yellow (in the morning grip is low) and grey.

Good luck at the race.
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