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Old 03-07-2006, 02:00 AM   #3736
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Jea3 Wrote:
cars that lost 2nd gear, were Mugen team drivers, that I won't mention names. 2 Other cars, are people in the top of the list for our division.

With us racing in Serpents back yard (Florida) you would think that the TEAM Mugen, would help all the none factory backed Mugens, at a State, or National event. Not so.

I know Rudy was one that blew 2nd, but not sure who the other was. I had a screw strip out and cause the engine not to be able to return to idle. I fixed that with the new radio deck I cut last night. I will test it next Kissimme race. Making it to the A and haveing an issue like that made me look like a hack when I couldn't get the car to slow down for the corners.

I have lost 2nd only 2 times since I have gotten the 4. I found that If I adjust the grear mesh to fit 2nd gear first and then put on the 1st gear, it had always worked for me.
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Old 03-07-2006, 12:49 PM   #3737
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[QUOTE=rcfoolz]Jea3 Wrote:

With us racing in Serpents back yard (Florida) you would think that the TEAM Mugen, would help all the none factory backed Mugens, at a State, or National event. Not so.

QUOTE]

James...did you ask for help? Art is always willing to help.
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:20 PM   #3738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustRace
James...did you ask for help? Art is always willing to help.
I think he just stated his observations. From my observations at big races I attended, many of the factory teams are not too willing to assist non-team drivers. At the sedan nationals in Texas last year, Kyosho was really bad about that. In fact, they set up their area well away from everyone else and was not very friendly towards many at the event. I know that it is a case-by-case thing, but many of the people associated with these factory teams have not come across to be the most friendly and helpful individuals when approached (when they are not busy in their pit areas)
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Old 03-07-2006, 01:33 PM   #3739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sook
It really does not have anything to do with tight gear mesh or a one piece engine mount. Although the one piece engine mount is sweet. It was actually mentioned early on in this thread, but it is a very good truthful fact. Your engine must be near perfect to perpendicular to the gears. Keep the split between 4, 5 or 6 and it should be fine. Anything more and you are taking risk at losing the second gear. If your engine alignment is near perpendicular line to the gears without any odd angles, you will not have a striping problem.
the above info is correct but my alignment is the same as i had for my mtx-3 which never stripped a gear what we are all looking for is something that is different between the mtx-3 and mtx-4 that is causing the stripping problem
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Old 03-07-2006, 02:08 PM   #3740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb
the above info is correct but my alignment is the same as i had for my mtx-3 which never stripped a gear what we are all looking for is something that is different between the mtx-3 and mtx-4 that is causing the stripping problem
Agree...

My main suspect is the clutch bell. Since second #1 I've seen those little bearings don't like them. On some gearings the clutch bell touches with the 2nd gear clutch bell.

Don't know if this can make a difference for you guys, but a dreaded morning blew 4 2nd gear spurs in 4 consecutive quals with my MRX3 until I realized the big gap I had on the clutch of the 2nd gear, cleaned the bell, sanded with #600 grit sandpaper a little just to remove the shiny finish and give a firmer gripping surface, rubbed it with alcohol and installed another time, this time letting much lesser gap (about 0.2mm of gap), the shifts are quick, firm (sometimes brutal) and didn't get another time a blown 2nd gear spur.

To those all who are blowing 2nd gear spurs: double, triple, quad check the bearing that supports the housing into the shaft, the bearing should be on perfect condition if not, change it for a new bearing, a little slop on the bearing causes the dreaded spur carnage. Check too for the gap and reduce it to the bare minimum, just for having an extra of security.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:23 PM   #3741
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Hey guys what would be the best pipe for the MTX4? I'm thinking about giving the new OS motor a try. Also the last time I drove a nitro car it was a MTX3, the battery was different. What battery would you guys recommend picking up?
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:26 PM   #3742
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OS TZ and Skyline VR12 is what im running right now... For battery, Skyline has a 1400mah or you could get a SMC one that is 1200mah.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:30 PM   #3743
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VR12 for pipe
Skyline 1400mah battery
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:31 PM   #3744
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Riketsu - Thx. How do you like the OS motor.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:36 PM   #3745
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Riketsu - Also what on-line store did you p/u the skyline pipe and battery
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:37 PM   #3746
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I purchased my stuff from the LHS. But you can probably get both at www.skylinercracing.com, they basicly sell the stuff at the same price as LHS do.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:42 PM   #3747
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Riketsu - Sweet. I'm on their site now. Thx. How do you like the OS?
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:43 PM   #3748
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Riketsu - One more question, which pipe did you buy the one piece or the two piece.
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:48 PM   #3749
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I use this one:

VR 12 One piece .12 On Road Legal exhaust system (Legal Stinger)

Out of Stock, product will be available the Mid of March. It is available Now! "The choice of Champion"
$59.99

The O.S. is awesome. It can easily keep up with the big boys, it has an awesome bottom end which gives me an advantage entering the straight and coming out of turns. PR's track are fairly small, so a huge engine isn't needed. The tuning couldn't be easier. According to many people, the secret is in how you break-in the TZ. I followed the other TZ racer's suggestions and used Josh Cyrul's method. (www.cefx.net).
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Old 03-07-2006, 05:50 PM   #3750
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Riketsu - Thanks for the help.
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