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Old 05-01-2011, 03:22 PM   #991
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The only thing which is less durable compared to the Xray are the two speed gears and pinions.
Because these are so small (15T vs 17T) they wear out a bit quicker, same thing for the spurgears (52 vs 60)
Maybe a very good hardcoating could keep the pinions in shape for a longer period, but advanced coatings come with a pricetag.
Sorry, I disagree. I had an Xray NT1 and am happy because I think just the opposite about this For me Capricorn are better.
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:47 AM   #992
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Sorry, I disagree. I had an Xray NT1 and am happy because I think just the opposite about this For me Capricorn are better.
We go through a lot of 1st gear pinions, but we find that the 2nd gears are probably not wearing much more than aluminium gears most other cars that we have had.

Our spur gears seem to last forever in our experience; which is not bad considering that Capricorn gears are smaller and spin faster. Someone told me that both spur gears and pinions should be replaced together regardless of which was worn out, and that both gears would wear faster if we didn't. However; my experience with this car doesn't back that up, and we have gone back to replacing only the gear that is worn in normal use.

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Old 05-02-2011, 10:08 AM   #993
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Thumbs up Durability? Is NOT in question!

I've gotta agree with Lars. 1st gear pinion does wear especially racing on parking lots. I have one full season and starting the second season on my original pinions. Only trashed one 1st spur gear, (yesterday I had one of the 2-5X8X2.5mm clutch bell bearings fail, cleaned out the bad "Micro Scrap Metal", using the outer race as a spacer, reassembled, and fiunished the Race day!).

My Car is from the 1st batch that arrived in the USA that I purchased in March, 2010. I had to discover the "Hard Way" what this Cars tendeccies to "Fall Apart" were going to be. The original manual was later revised to using longer 3mm screws with nylocks outside the bulkhead to hold the Brake Pads together. The original configuration fell apart on my car in about 3 laps, trashing the CAP pads and as a result, I have NT1 parts on my car, (I have Capricorn parts to replace them but I'm too lazy right now).
The front bumper CF top plate 17032 can't take much abuse, so I have NT1 bumper parts on my car. My front/lower control arms have been revised to have a 3mm button head screw installed through the backside to keep the lower shock attachments in place, also a drop of Loctite on the Ball threads. For parking lot racing I'm using the 3 hole shock pistons, single "O"ring setup and an assortment of softer Kyosho springs, (because I have them), and disconnect the sway bars, high roll center inserts in the rear lower arms.
The rear camber link attachment to the rear upright/block needed a longer flathead 3mm screw to keep it in place.
I mix and match front and rear belts with the NT1, (the front belt will tend to rub on the underside of the upper decks cross brace, therefore I've added some clearence with a Dremel like Xray does to their decks. The side belt tensioner CF plate can have the adjustment slot lengthened to allow a little more tension adjustment. And I have a NT1 rear diff with lighter fluid in it as a "Tuning Option" as well as a NT1Spool, (None of these Xray parts are necessary now, just more conviently available at that time).

Thats about it for me. All in all, this car,after the 1st month of "Shake Down", has been very durable and most of the things I've delt with to adapt to my race conditions, Capricorn seems to have now addressed.
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:01 AM   #994
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Hi guys I have a reAr roll centre question..

What effect does the rear upper arm have on the cars handling ? In low grip would you run it higher or lower? Thanks
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:01 PM   #995
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Hi guys I have a reAr roll centre question..

What effect does the rear upper arm have on the cars handling ? In low grip would you run it higher or lower? Thanks
In low bite you would want to use a flatter link. This will help with on power traction. Keep in mind everything is a balance. So what you gain somewhere you can lose in another place. In general more angle means more rotation out of the turn and more traction going in. It is hard to answer this question only because there are many points in the turn and the angle of this rear link affects different parts of the turn.

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Old 05-03-2011, 04:49 PM   #996
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Thanks for the reply DJ
where do you normally run your roll centres?

this previous sunday was the first time with my car..it had rained every day for the last week up until the nightbefore and the track dried up just before qualifying started. i won the first qualifier, 2nd in the 2nd qualifier and just missed TQ in the third due to some understeer and i hit the wall to pit lane

i had the quickest lap in qualifying .2 faster than the next quickest guy and already faster than my previous car. in qualifying i ran 35f 37r so in the final decided to run 37f 40r to try and free up the car as it has so much grip! the 40 rear made the car taily so iwasnt able to better my times and finished 2nd.

i ran the stock setup with the only change being the rear lower arm closest to the chassis and the upper arm in lowest position. red springs 1 up in front and red springs 1 up in rear. next time ill try the xray silver springs and the rear upper arm in middle position
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Old 05-03-2011, 04:59 PM   #997
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Thanks for the reply DJ
where do you normally run your roll centres?

this previous sunday was the first time with my car..it had rained every day for the last week up until the nightbefore and the track dried up just before qualifying started. i won the first qualifier, 2nd in the 2nd qualifier and just missed TQ in the third due to some understeer and i hit the wall to pit lane

i had the quickest lap in qualifying .2 faster than the next quickest guy and already faster than my previous car. in qualifying i ran 35f 37r so in the final decided to run 37f 40r to try and free up the car as it has so much grip! the 40 rear made the car taily so iwasnt able to better my times and finished 2nd.

i ran the stock setup with the only change being the rear lower arm closest to the chassis and the upper arm in lowest position. red springs 1 up in front and red springs 1 up in rear. next time ill try the xray silver springs and the rear upper arm in middle position
Congrats with the new car! Next time you will get it done for sure.

In lower bite I would use the harder springs and try to get the car to work. this will help with the response of the car. Maybe use those and lay them down. as for the change to try I would have stayed with the 37 rears if you could get away with the tire for the final and just add a little shim under the camber link till you get the car to rotate like you wanted. .5mm may do the trick or add some caster by moving the front arms back .5 or 1mm.

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Old 05-03-2011, 05:04 PM   #998
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so keep the upper arm in its lo position and add another shim?
i think the xray silver springs feel harder than the red
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:41 PM   #999
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3rd place at Turkish season warm-up race with my lab.

Not a single mechanical problem in the weekend, the car is solid

However I had lots of problems about setup. The track is very fast flowing. Tire wear was very extreme and forced me to use 66mm rears 64mm fronts, 40-42 shore. In 1 hour amain rears wore 11mm, fronts 10mm. Final ride height was 3mm. Traction was very low and weather was cold.

I inclined all the shocks, used lots of camber to gain some side bite, tried thinner diff oil, changed roll center but could not get rid of twitchy front end. I need your experiences about twitchy front ends.

Another problem is 2 speed adjustment. 11mm tire wear messed up my shifting point and leaded to engine overheating. How do you set shifting time with high tire wear. Changing tires is not an option for me.

DJ you know the track. Do you remember the bumodgp in Turkey? I hope you will drive lab next year and maybe we meet again

I am off the pace by half a second ( 21.5 lap time ). I must close the gap. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:53 PM   #1000
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3rd place at Turkish season warm-up race with my lab.

Not a single mechanical problem in the weekend, the car is solid

However I had lots of problems about setup. The track is very fast flowing. Tire wear was very extreme and forced me to use 66mm rears 64mm fronts, 40-42 shore. In 1 hour amain rears wore 11mm, fronts 10mm. Final ride height was 3mm. Traction was very low and weather was cold.

I inclined all the shocks, used lots of camber to gain some side bite, tried thinner diff oil, changed roll center but could not get rid of twitchy front end. I need your experiences about twitchy front ends.

Another problem is 2 speed adjustment. 11mm tire wear messed up my shifting point and leaded to engine overheating. How do you set shifting time with high tire wear. Changing tires is not an option for me.

DJ you know the track. Do you remember the bumodgp in Turkey? I hope you will drive lab next year and maybe we meet again

I am off the pace by half a second ( 21.5 lap time ). I must close the gap. Thanks for the help guys.
Do I remember the track, OH Yeah! It was probably the most fun I had at a travel race. That track is the Bomb!!!

First thing. As for the twitchy car I need your complete set-up. But I will say I would have the rear roll center lower pins all the way down and the camber link medium to long with 1mm spacer. With the softest rear sway bar and 50,000 diff oil. 200mm width with 4.5 left camber and 4 right. 2.5 rear toe in.

Front I would have the upper pins at the 2nd to highest position with 3mm caster in front of arms. 2.3 sway bar or soft blade bar. 199.5mm width and 1.5 toe out on each side. 2mm camber to start with both sides. 150k front diff oil. 2 hole shocks all around with 50 wt. Use stock black springs all around laid down also.

Being it was so cold this has a lot to do with the higher tire wear and low grip, as I think you are just coming into your season and the track needs some running. Am I correct about the racing just starting?

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Old 05-05-2011, 03:32 PM   #1001
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Do I remember the track, OH Yeah! It was probably the most fun I had at a travel race. That track is the Bomb!!!

First thing. As for the twitchy car I need your complete set-up. But I will say I would have the rear roll center lower pins all the way down and the camber link medium to long with 1mm spacer. With the softest rear sway bar and 50,000 diff oil. 200mm width with 4.5 left camber and 4 right. 2.5 rear toe in.

Front I would have the upper pins at the 2nd to highest position with 3mm caster in front of arms. 2.3 sway bar or soft blade bar. 199.5mm width and 1.5 toe out on each side. 2mm camber to start with both sides. 150k front diff oil. 2 hole shocks all around with 50 wt. Use stock black springs all around laid down also.

Being it was so cold this has a lot to do with the higher tire wear and low grip, as I think you are just coming into your season and the track needs some running. Am I correct about the racing just starting?

DJ Apolaro
Hey DJ,

Yea first race.

Lay down both front and rear? My initial setup was rear lowest hole and front second hole. The car was a joke with low grip. I used red springs. 50wt with 3 holes. I thought stiffer springs would be overkill. Maybe I should use a little bit more rebound.

I will try your setup next race or practice. I need more driving with the lab.

Good to hear from you
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:32 AM   #1002
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So DJ your saying to use harder springs in low grip and softer when the grip is better?

I always thought it was the other way around?

I think to solve a twitchy front end use a harder spring up front
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:55 AM   #1003
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hey guys, i know this is not the right forum but i have parts for cap lab c01 for sale. brand new alloy parts and carbon parts like upper deck etc. pm me for pic. i'll post it 2nite on the for sale forum.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:44 AM   #1004
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So DJ your saying to use harder springs in low grip and softer when the grip is better?

I always thought it was the other way around?

I think to solve a twitchy front end use a harder spring up front
A harder spring will create a better re-acting car, so if you can get traction in other ways than you will have a better car. Stiffer springs up front will give the car more twitchy feeling, but the overall set-up I gave him should not be too twitchy. It's all about balance and also depends how low the grip, but I think for that track the stiffer spring will be better. If the traction is really bad than I use a softer spring and stand them up more, but the Turkey track, from what I remember was not that low bite. For him it was more since it was the first race and the track needs to be run a little.

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Old 05-06-2011, 02:02 PM   #1005
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A harder spring will create a better re-acting car, so if you can get traction in other ways than you will have a better car. Stiffer springs up front will give the car more twitchy feeling, but the overall set-up I gave him should not be too twitchy. It's all about balance and also depends how low the grip, but I think for that track the stiffer spring will be better. If the traction is really bad than I use a softer spring and stand them up more, but the Turkey track, from what I remember was not that low bite. For him it was more since it was the first race and the track needs to be run a little.

DJ
Exatcly what I did.

DJ how do you setup 2 speed shifting point with very high tire wear?

Thank you
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