Serpent 710
#1291
Originally posted by clmbia45
Step 2.5 seems to be missing a drawing for explaination.
Grub screw (h16) and the hole into which it fits are not pictured.
Step 2.5 seems to be missing a drawing for explaination.
Grub screw (h16) and the hole into which it fits are not pictured.
I guess Serpent needs to update that. My guess is that the 4 x 4 grub screw (H16) goes directly into the opposite direction of the diff assembly where the E18 screw goes in.Much like step 3.5 in the 705 manual but then the diff uses a 5 x 5 grub screw.
#1292
Originally posted by InitialD
I concur. For a race, what I usually do is I'll use a 3 mm ball tip allen (excellent for this job) to screw the shock pivot ball onto the H12 setscrew real tight. The setscrew would initially protrude like about 2 mm like Glenn mentioned.
Then, I use a 1.5 allen to BACK OUT the H12 setscrew so that the shock pivot ball is fully threaded onto the setscrew.
When you need to take off the shocks, then just do a reverse of the above. This is what I do anyways. Some may or may not disagree.
This is what I do too.
I concur. For a race, what I usually do is I'll use a 3 mm ball tip allen (excellent for this job) to screw the shock pivot ball onto the H12 setscrew real tight. The setscrew would initially protrude like about 2 mm like Glenn mentioned.
Then, I use a 1.5 allen to BACK OUT the H12 setscrew so that the shock pivot ball is fully threaded onto the setscrew.
When you need to take off the shocks, then just do a reverse of the above. This is what I do anyways. Some may or may not disagree.
This is what I do too.
#1293
I just wanted to thank you all for the setup information for the 705 (even if this is the 710 thread)! I picked up my kit a month or so ago and have one race so far. I have a question about the tank mounting. I moved the spacer that goes between the tank and the top plate so its now above the tank. It lowers the tank another 1/8" or so and still leaves enough room for the batteries below. Is this okay to do? Or will I have fuel delivery problems?
#1294
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 379
If the spacer is rubber i would say keep it underneath the tank because your fuel will bubble. I read in a post to put some fuel line under then tank on the post to stop some of vibration, if its sitting on the chassis it might get more vibration and your fuel will bubble more.
#1296
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 277
From: Hong Kong
Originally posted by InitialD
Looking at the chassis, I don't think there are any provisional spaces where the weights can be put at the lowest level in the centreline axis like the XRay Raycer.
Perhaps, you can get an excuse to put bling bling aluminum parts without feeling any guilt !
But seriously, do gas powered cars really need to be balanced left and right weight distribution wise like what you do on eletric cars?
Looking at the chassis, I don't think there are any provisional spaces where the weights can be put at the lowest level in the centreline axis like the XRay Raycer.
Perhaps, you can get an excuse to put bling bling aluminum parts without feeling any guilt !
But seriously, do gas powered cars really need to be balanced left and right weight distribution wise like what you do on eletric cars?
But then again butting more weight up top is a bad idea....
#1297
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 277
From: Hong Kong
Originally posted by JABRONI
710 offering, Check this site out, ?359.99
Buddy of mine sent me this link!!!!!!!!!
True or not, wonder if they are for real !!!!!
http://warrickcustomhobbies.com/insi...dex.php?cat=74
710 offering, Check this site out, ?359.99
Buddy of mine sent me this link!!!!!!!!!
True or not, wonder if they are for real !!!!!
http://warrickcustomhobbies.com/insi...dex.php?cat=74
#1298
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 277
From: Hong Kong
Originally posted by ammdrew
boy that would be something..
Maybe in florida..
I have always balanced my car left and right, since the pro there has been two little dimples in the middle of the chassie on each end, and hudy made these two little tac looking things( http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2215), if you put them in the chassie you will know if it is balanced.. the first time i ever went to try this( just looking for a edge) I found that the car was nearly perfectly balanced, just by luck.. and almost always my serpents have been really really close to neutral left and right.. but if i were to add weight i would always try and keep it centered and low..If I had to choose though I would consider the tweak of the car more important than the weight being slightly off..
looks like I may have to add some with this new car.. It will be the first time I have ever gone to tech and not been told my brick passed.
boy that would be something..
Maybe in florida..I have always balanced my car left and right, since the pro there has been two little dimples in the middle of the chassie on each end, and hudy made these two little tac looking things( http://www.mytsn.com/products/desc.asp?prid=2215), if you put them in the chassie you will know if it is balanced.. the first time i ever went to try this( just looking for a edge) I found that the car was nearly perfectly balanced, just by luck.. and almost always my serpents have been really really close to neutral left and right.. but if i were to add weight i would always try and keep it centered and low..If I had to choose though I would consider the tweak of the car more important than the weight being slightly off..
looks like I may have to add some with this new car.. It will be the first time I have ever gone to tech and not been told my brick passed.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=19168
#1299
Originally posted by InitialD
I concur. For a race, what I usually do is I'll use a 3 mm ball tip allen (excellent for this job) to screw the shock pivot ball onto the H12 setscrew real tight. The setscrew would initially protrude like about 2 mm like Glenn mentioned.
Then, I use a 1.5 allen to BACK OUT the H12 setscrew so that the shock pivot ball is fully threaded onto the setscrew.
When you need to take off the shocks, then just do a reverse of the above. This is what I do anyways. Some may or may not disagree.
This is what I do too.
I concur. For a race, what I usually do is I'll use a 3 mm ball tip allen (excellent for this job) to screw the shock pivot ball onto the H12 setscrew real tight. The setscrew would initially protrude like about 2 mm like Glenn mentioned.
Then, I use a 1.5 allen to BACK OUT the H12 setscrew so that the shock pivot ball is fully threaded onto the setscrew.
When you need to take off the shocks, then just do a reverse of the above. This is what I do anyways. Some may or may not disagree.
This is what I do too.
SN
#1302
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 315
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by clmbia45
Step 2.5 seems to be missing a drawing for explaination.
Grub screw (h16) and the hole into which it fits are not pictured.
Step 2.5 seems to be missing a drawing for explaination.
Grub screw (h16) and the hole into which it fits are not pictured.
Glenn Cauley
Ottawa, Canada
Last edited by GlennCauley; 11-26-2003 at 06:02 AM.
#1305
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Originally posted by fmolzer
OK,
It's the 26:th where is the parts list??? I think I am going crazy hitting the parts list link on mytsn and just getting the "There are no parts" thing pop up
Impatient? Yepp !!!
OK,
It's the 26:th where is the parts list??? I think I am going crazy hitting the parts list link on mytsn and just getting the "There are no parts" thing pop up
Impatient? Yepp !!!
Well, time to talk to the IT ppl man...........



