Are you referring ceramics for pottery or "potter"y as in magic?

Thanks for the update. I never knew they were 3.9 mm in diameter. I always thought they were 4 mm...

Time to buy some new verniers. Looks like your out by 0.1mm

I would be pretty peaved if mine read 0.1mm out

hey guys i got my motor RB Con. x12 about to break it in. 2 questions. do you have a direct link for the WOT break in method?

What do i charge the 5 cell battary pack? I have a Novak Mil Charger.

It all depends on what size pack you have. But don't go over 1 amp.

How exactly do you know when your setting up the diff that the pulley is tight enough?? Didn't Julius right a good article on setting up the diff? I can't find it.

thanks pit, i'm not sure which size, but it is the one that serpent sell for the 710.

How do you guys quote like the ay "D" did for me questions?? When I highlight something and hit quote the whole post "D" made shows up and its not highlighted like the way he did it??

Brandon's car at tech after the A-main win at the Biggie.....

Prob. 750mah then, charge at .75 amp

I've read the article on checking tweak. So let me get this straight, basically all you do is place the rear of the car onto the blocks and lift the front of the car and if both tires come off at the same time then there is no tweak?? Then do the same for the other side of the car? Thats what I've been doing. Say I lift the front and one tire comes off before the other, do I just adjust the shock collers to even it out? Thanks.

Initially when I cme out I had the front diff tight enough so that the pulley couldn't spin but the diff action was very hard in front. I don't think there is much that can go wrong when assembling the diffs?? I assembled the rear diff and it seems to be working just fine.
As for the Centax, I'm darn sure that I had the two different sized holes in the spacers for the thrust bearing in the right location. I double and triple checked before installing. I think I may have cooked the thrust bearing because of the the delay before the clutch would hit. I only ran like 8 tanks of fuel and there was no grease left at all?? How often do you regrease your thrust bearing "D" with that Super Grease? I'm going to order some next week and give it a try. I may also try the clutch mod? What do you think would be the best setup as far as clutch goes for a very small tight track that requires quick bursts of acceleration. What depth should I set the Centax to and etc.....?

Do really think that maybe my car is tweaked?? From what I've read and understand my car shouldn't be tweaked??? I made all the shocks exactly the same length. I think what I should do is completely tear the car apart and start from scratch. Recheck everything and make sure the shocks are the same length, get some Super grease and use that for the diffs balls and thrust bearings. Didn't Julius say that he doesn't use the front sway bar?? I know when I had my NTC3 and ran on this tight parking lot track that it didn't have any sway bars and it performed quite well until I nugded something and that would throw all the settings off. Any and help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks for your time everyone.

News update 200mm International race

The Border Team TQ on the Heemstede Track with:
Rick Vrielijnck (18laps 5:01)
Hardware : Mugen MTX3- JP FX.12 T3- R&D Turbo II pipe - Enetti tyres
Sunday : Final

The thrust bearing for the Centax III is the same for the Centax II because they share the same part #, correct? Now, is the thrust bearing for the Centax setup on the R40 the same for the 710?? Locally people want $25 for 710 thrust bearing and $10 for a R40 thrust bearing. Let me know, thanks.

Somebody's MISSING