PSI Racing

I just used a normal X-Acto nife.

teammpp

Thats what I use too. Not an X-Acto but a real surgeon's scalpel. Be real careful though. I have the scar to prove what happens when it slips. The slice didnt hurt. It was the crunching of the blade running along the bottom of the bones in the hand that was unbearable.

InitialD

If you use a sharp Xacto hobby knife, you should be able to cut the shoes cleanly.

InitialD

No. Are you clipping the curbs? My guess is that if the pillow balls don't pop out of the hubs, you either snap the pillow balls or rip the pillow ball out of the arms.

The 3 Racing one is just so so.

crashed_1

Ermmm...that's exactly what i did. Lesson No.1...PRACTICE PRACTICE and PRACTICE. Damn what a shitty day i had...My engine overheated on Heat #1...flamed out and couldn't get it started. Heat#2 richened the engine and 2nd gear wouldn't kick in...then cartwheeled 6 rounds and the shocks popped out. Heat #3 was okay but not good enough, engine flamed out and restarting took a while...landed in C main. Wrong tyre choice saw me understeering all over, and the worst bit was lack of practice...

Overall it was a fun race but one i'd like to forget.

kreidel

iTrader: (2)

Yes I clipped a corner and it popped out. Switching back between my Mugen and the Serpent throws me off and in practice I pulled it out when I slightly caught it. I have done it a couple times with my Mugen so I was just curious if it was a problem with out people. I know that the R40's front pop out just looking at them but I honestly don't have alotta drive time with the 710 so I cannot speak from experience.

Sow&Steady

Yes you're right, she was close to FTD too. I heard her telling Ian that she had a lot of problems with the G4's steering. Maybe some should tell her the mod that the guys are doing ... see the G4 thread.

InitialD

When it pulls to the left, I guess the front diff is not set correctly. My guess it's slipping. If it was pulling to the right, then the rear diff is slipping.

Just as a side note, don't worry about the diffs being set hard. The diffs loosened when they heat up.

My guess is that when you took it out and loosened the diffs, the screws were not set correctly. If you did it not correct, loosening the diffs would make the pulley slip.

Mark could be correct that one of the set screws on the pulleys were not tightened. Check that.

It's not the collar that is giving you the problem. It's the setting inside the diff that is making the diff slip and hence the diff is acting like a oneway when you brake.

Why don't you try the solid front?

Did you set and make sure the thrust bearing plates were set correctly? Larger inner diameter towards the clutchbell first and then the smaller inner diameter towards the shims?

I set my clutch hard. But hard does not mean slip. My guess is that there is too much slip (because the clutch is stock and not modified) and overheats the clutch and bearings.

Please do not misunderstand about the grease thing in the rear. You can do WITHOUT the grease in the diffs but most of us found that the diff would be gritty. Not just putting any grease. Most grease will just wear out after a short while and it is as good as not putting grease afterwards. The diffs will get gritty. Mugen grease will stay on very long as it's sticky. That's why we use it.

Because the front diff is having a problem... No matter what you do, you'll have the problem when you do not fix the root of the problem which is the diff slipping.

Where have you been? We've beaten the subject to death. We all know that the car isn't geared perfect out of the box for a small track. Go with 16/60 for the 1st gear (don't go with 61 if you do not know how to correctly mesh it) and 21/57 for the 2nd gear.

If your track has a sharp deep apex after a long straight, taking out the front sway bar may make the front dive and give the required steering you want. If you want your front to cost stability around islands or fast sweepers, I suggest to go with the front sway bar. It helps to make the front stable and does not hook the car suddently when you make high speed turns.

Sow&Steady

Hmmm, I've heard that somewhere. No, I wrote that somewhere!

Depending on which race this one is then C-Main ain't bad if you haven't practiced AND your engine is playing up.

If its one of Tomato Fattini's "closed" races then give me your equipment, you need to retire and just spray paint bodies for us.


OK, now I take back the comments about retiring. The key is to have fun. This is a hobby/sport to enjoy

InitialD

What mod? I don't think there's any solution at the moment...

InitialD

All Centax clutches work the same. Their setup principle works the same and can be applied to all Centax clutches even if they may use different bearing sizes.

InitialD

Perhaps the car is slightly tweaked. Shocks lengths are not set correctly etc.

InitialD

Engine flame out? Strange. Your engine is the least of all that would flame out. Evidenced in all the weekends we've played !

Strange. Why would it be wrong tire choice? Use what you've been using all the while lah...

Ah, don't loose sleep about it. Sorry that I could not be your wingman this time. Race on June 20th?

teammpp

There is a botch job mod using heavier links etc. But this only works if the car is set up properly and you aint hitting anything

Pyramid

You may want to share it with Goldfinger who catch the fallen running Hudy break-in bench without its blade protector... right in its moving blade at 50% engine throttle openings. BTW, he did went to hospital that day to fix his `GoldFinger`.