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Old 06-05-2004, 07:44 AM   #12031
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Default Re: For Glenn Cauley

Quote:
Originally posted by PMR
I'm inetrested with the topic you post in serpent's website regarding the modified flyweights. My question is, when you cut the shoe into three pieces what do you use? Dremel? Cutter?
I just used a normal X-Acto nife.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:04 AM   #12032
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Default Re: Re: For Glenn Cauley

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Originally posted by PSI Racing
I just used a normal X-Acto nife.
Thats what I use too. Not an X-Acto but a real surgeon's scalpel. Be real careful though. I have the scar to prove what happens when it slips. The slice didnt hurt. It was the crunching of the blade running along the bottom of the bones in the hand that was unbearable.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:11 AM   #12033
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Default Re: For Glenn Cauley

Quote:
Originally posted by PMR
My question is, when you cut the shoe into three pieces what do you use? Dremel? Cutter?
If you use a sharp Xacto hobby knife, you should be able to cut the shoes cleanly.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:16 AM   #12034
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Do any of you guys have a problem with the front pillowballs pulling out of the hub carrier?
No. Are you clipping the curbs? My guess is that if the pillow balls don't pop out of the hubs, you either snap the pillow balls or rip the pillow ball out of the arms.

Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
Also, has any company made front swingshafts/cvds that are any good?
The 3 Racing one is just so so.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:31 AM   #12035
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Good luck man ... and don't ... erm crash!
Ermmm...that's exactly what i did. Lesson No.1...PRACTICE PRACTICE and PRACTICE. Damn what a shitty day i had...My engine overheated on Heat #1...flamed out and couldn't get it started. Heat#2 richened the engine and 2nd gear wouldn't kick in...then cartwheeled 6 rounds and the shocks popped out. Heat #3 was okay but not good enough, engine flamed out and restarting took a while...landed in C main. Wrong tyre choice saw me understeering all over, and the worst bit was lack of practice...

Overall it was a fun race but one i'd like to forget.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:37 AM   #12036
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
No. Are you clipping the curbs? My guess is that if the pillow balls don't pop out of the hubs, you either snap the pillow balls or rip the pillow ball out of the arms.



The 3 Racing one is just so so.
Yes I clipped a corner and it popped out. Switching back between my Mugen and the Serpent throws me off and in practice I pulled it out when I slightly caught it. I have done it a couple times with my Mugen so I was just curious if it was a problem with out people. I know that the R40's front pop out just looking at them but I honestly don't have alotta drive time with the 710 so I cannot speak from experience.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:02 AM   #12037
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Already have done. The joys of Broadband. Shame Sam caught the curb or she might well have gave Mark a good run for his money. That seemed to throw her off the rythym a bit.
Yes you're right, she was close to FTD too. I heard her telling Ian that she had a lot of problems with the G4's steering. Maybe some should tell her the mod that the guys are doing ... see the G4 thread.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:10 AM   #12038
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Default Re: Not a great day :-(

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Started the car up and drove it lightly around, put the brakes on and it spun out like I had a oneway in it? Went down the straight and started accelerating hard and it pulled hard to the left.
When it pulls to the left, I guess the front diff is not set correctly. My guess it's slipping. If it was pulling to the right, then the rear diff is slipping.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
The front on the other hand was very tight even with the adjuster coller on the diff set all the way loose?
Just as a side note, don't worry about the diffs being set hard. The diffs loosened when they heat up.

My guess is that when you took it out and loosened the diffs, the screws were not set correctly. If you did it not correct, loosening the diffs would make the pulley slip.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Shut the car off, apply the brakes and noe I can spin the front pulley just like a oneway?????????
Mark could be correct that one of the set screws on the pulleys were not tightened. Check that.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I don't know what to do? If I set the screw in the middle of the diff tight enough so that the pulley doens't spin by hand its very hard to turn the outdrives. If I loosen it enough to free up the outdrives the pulley spins?
It's not the collar that is giving you the problem. It's the setting inside the diff that is making the diff slip and hence the diff is acting like a oneway when you brake.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I had to let off the throttle half way down the straight in order to be able to slow down enough in time to make the corner.
Why don't you try the solid front?

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I don't know what to say about today but I need some advice before I flip out! I used a Synthetic Automotive grease for the bearings, made sure I packed them good. Shimmed the Centax to perfection with a set of $200 digital calipers. I set the Centax to 0.5mm endplay and then set the total end play to 0.1mm endplay.
Did you set and make sure the thrust bearing plates were set correctly? Larger inner diameter towards the clutchbell first and then the smaller inner diameter towards the shims?

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
The only thing I can think about that may have caused this was that my clutch spring was a little tighter than it should have been and it took quite a few RPM's before the clutch would engage, maybe I over heated the bearing?? Its all stock the Centax III, nothing has been modified.
I set my clutch hard. But hard does not mean slip. My guess is that there is too much slip (because the clutch is stock and not modified) and overheats the clutch and bearings.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
The guy that had that smoking fast 710 told me that he doesn't use grease on his diff balls, he finds the diff works better this way and lasts longer as well?
Please do not misunderstand about the grease thing in the rear. You can do WITHOUT the grease in the diffs but most of us found that the diff would be gritty. Not just putting any grease. Most grease will just wear out after a short while and it is as good as not putting grease afterwards. The diffs will get gritty. Mugen grease will stay on very long as it's sticky. That's why we use it.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
One other thing I tried when I still had the front diff in my car and it was quite hard to turn the front tires I figured I'd try to make the back almost as tight as the front, well that didn't work either car still spun out when hitting the brakes.
Because the front diff is having a problem... No matter what you do, you'll have the problem when you do not fix the root of the problem which is the diff slipping.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I'm also going to gear my car for quicker acceleration, the guy with the yellow 710 told me what gearing he was running so I'm going to go and get me some pinion and spur gear sprockets.
Where have you been? We've beaten the subject to death. We all know that the car isn't geared perfect out of the box for a small track. Go with 16/60 for the 1st gear (don't go with 61 if you do not know how to correctly mesh it) and 21/57 for the 2nd gear.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Let me clarify this, does removing the front sway bar or lessoning its power like going from 90 degrees to level make the car have more steering or less?
If your track has a sharp deep apex after a long straight, taking out the front sway bar may make the front dive and give the required steering you want. If you want your front to cost stability around islands or fast sweepers, I suggest to go with the front sway bar. It helps to make the front stable and does not hook the car suddently when you make high speed turns.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:11 AM   #12039
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Ermmm...that's exactly what i did. Lesson No.1...PRACTICE PRACTICE and PRACTICE.
Hmmm, I've heard that somewhere. No, I wrote that somewhere!

Quote:
Damn what a shitty day i had...My engine overheated on Heat #1...flamed out and couldn't get it started. Heat#2 richened the engine and 2nd gear wouldn't kick in...then cartwheeled 6 rounds and the shocks popped out. Heat #3 was okay but not good enough, engine flamed out and restarting took a while...landed in C main. Wrong tyre choice saw me understeering all over, and the worst bit was lack of practice...
Depending on which race this one is then C-Main ain't bad if you haven't practiced AND your engine is playing up.

If its one of Tomato Fattini's "closed" races then give me your equipment, you need to retire and just spray paint bodies for us.


Quote:
Overall it was a fun race but one i'd like to forget.
OK, now I take back the comments about retiring. The key is to have fun. This is a hobby/sport to enjoy
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:11 AM   #12040
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Maybe some should tell her the mod that the guys are doing ... see the G4 thread.
What mod? I don't think there's any solution at the moment...
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:14 AM   #12041
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Default Re: Re: Not a great day :-(

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Not sure which system the R40 uses, but the Centax III requires more precise setup than the older Centax versions - the Centax II was pretty much fool proof - you could set it up quite badly and it would still work ok. The centax III requires much more precise setup to work well.
All Centax clutches work the same. Their setup principle works the same and can be applied to all Centax clutches even if they may use different bearing sizes.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:17 AM   #12042
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Default Re: Re: Not a great day :-(

Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
A tight front diff should give you plenty of brakes, so that shouldn't make you spin out - have you adjusted your brake power on your Tx unit? Maybe it is set too high and is instantly locking up all the wheels.
Perhaps the car is slightly tweaked. Shocks lengths are not set correctly etc.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:25 AM   #12043
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Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
My engine overheated on Heat #1...flamed out and couldn't get it started.
Engine flame out? Strange. Your engine is the least of all that would flame out. Evidenced in all the weekends we've played !

Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Wrong tyre choice saw me understeering all over, and the worst bit was lack of practice...
Strange. Why would it be wrong tire choice? Use what you've been using all the while lah...

Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
Overall it was a fun race but one i'd like to forget.
Ah, don't loose sleep about it. Sorry that I could not be your wingman this time. Race on June 20th?
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:25 AM   #12044
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
What mod? I don't think there's any solution at the moment...
There is a botch job mod using heavier links etc. But this only works if the car is set up properly and you aint hitting anything
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:31 AM   #12045
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Default Re: Re: Re: For Glenn Cauley

Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
It was the crunching of the blade running along the bottom of the bones in the hand that was unbearable.
You may want to share it with Goldfinger who catch the fallen running Hudy break-in bench without its blade protector... right in its moving blade at 50% engine throttle openings. BTW, he did went to hospital that day to fix his `GoldFinger`.
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