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Old 06-05-2004, 08:57 PM   #12076
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Yup, D ... that is just not you! Shame having your digital calipers off by .1mm
I did not measure them myself. Got it from Goldfinger. Perhaps he should change his digital caliper.
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:58 PM   #12077
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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Now THAT is interesting. How did you deduce that? Its a handy tip if its true though so its good to know for sure.
I'll have to kill you for that tip !

The collar on the REAR diff is on the LEFT side of the car. If the diff slips, the collar will prevent the rear LEFT axle side from slipping and then let the RIGHT axle slip more. Hence the rear swapping to the right side as the right wheel slips. Vice versa for the front as the clamp is on the right side.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:04 PM   #12078
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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Locally people want $25 for 710 thrust bearing and $10 for a R40 thrust bearing. Let me know, thanks.
That sucks. R40 uses 4x9x4 thrust bearing while 710 uses 5x10x4. Can you get the Mugen MTX-3 thrust bearing? They are the same as the one for Centax 3.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:06 PM   #12079
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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Initially when I cme out I had the front diff tight enough so that the pulley couldn't spin but the diff action was very hard in front.
Just set the diff to make sure that it does not slip.

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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
How often do you regrease your thrust bearing "D" with that Super Grease?
Not very often. Maybe once in a month. But you can see the grease stays there even after a weekend's run.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
What do you think would be the best setup as far as clutch goes for a very small tight track that requires quick bursts of acceleration. What depth should I set the Centax to and etc.....?
Set the Centax pre-tension nut to about 0.8 to 1.0 mm. That should work if your engine is tuned correct with the modified flyweights, stock Centax spring and original black clutch shoe. I would try 0.4 or 0.5 mm for clutch gap. But this would depend heavily on available traction. Smaller gap, smoother acceleration and better for slippery tracks. Larger clutch gaps like 0.7 mm if you have traction. Most agresssive clutch setting.

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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Didn't Julius say that he doesn't use the front sway bar??
He prefered it that way because he likes the way the car handles without the front sway bar. I guess he likes the car to have more forward bite and on power steering.

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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I know when I had my NTC3 and ran on this tight parking lot track that it didn't have any sway bars and it performed quite well until I nugded something and that would throw all the settings off.
Aha... That's what I guess. You coming from the NTC3 background seems to suggest that loose diffs are the way to go ! I had a few guys also think that way when they changed from NTC3 to 710. The diffs ont he 710 need not be too loose to get the car to hook. You'll be surprised.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:07 PM   #12080
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Originally posted by crashed_1
I was shocked to see my engine flameout too...a lot of the drivers were caught out by the 50mm front/refuel hole i guess, as i wasn't the only one who flamed out. Lotsa top drivers had the same problem...soulfree was one of em too.
On my current shell (Mazda 6), the front main cooling hole is 50 mm. As for the rest of the cuttings, I followed the IFMAR rules as much as I could. No problems. I would admit there's a little overheating at first but a few adjustments and it was OK.

Quote:
Originally posted by crashed_1
As for the tire choice, i should've gone for 35 shore instead of 37...traction was really low and my car was understeering big time...all the AE boys had 35 and boy, their car was PLANTED!!!
Something is not right. Perhaps in the morning it's different. But when I tested my car on the later part of the morning (10 to 11 am), my car was OK with 42 shore tires. I would not say planted but with 37 shore, I SHOULD think it would be planted.

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Anyways, lesson well learned. For the coming 20th race, it's gonna be the full track...body not confirmed but chances are it's gonna be touring.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:10 PM   #12081
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Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
So let me get this straight, basically all you do is place the rear of the car onto the blocks and lift the front of the car and if both tires come off at the same time then there is no tweak?? Then do the same for the other side of the car? Thats what I've been doing. Say I lift the front and one tire comes off before the other, do I just adjust the shock collers to even it out? Thanks.
Yup. Yeah, use the shock collars. Make sure the droop screws are even and there is no tweak when you install the sway bars also.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:36 PM   #12082
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guys I really need your help maybe Master D can help me I am assembling my rear differential assembly and on step 2.3 it says u need to have a 7x14mm bearing but on step 2.4 in the cad drawing the bearing is no longer there my question is did you guys leave the bearing inside because when I leave it there my diff won't shut properly and when I take the bearing out and reasemble it the diff closes perfectly I am really confused
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:41 PM   #12083
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Originally posted by FW05R
guys I really need your help maybe Master D can help me I am assembling my rear differential assembly and on step 2.3 it says u need to have a 7x14mm bearing but on step 2.4 in the cad drawing the bearing is no longer there my question is did you guys leave the bearing inside because when I leave it there my diff won't shut properly and when I take the bearing out and reasemble it the diff closes perfectly I am really confused
The bearing should be there. Don't take it out. The CAD drawing in 2.4 is wrong.
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Old 06-05-2004, 09:58 PM   #12084
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Originally posted by InitialD
The bearing should be there. Don't take it out. The CAD drawing in 2.4 is wrong.
master d I tried it again and the 4x8 screw on step 2.3 is too short when I put the 7x14 bearing on and it will not reach the other half of the diff but when I take the bearing out it reaches it and shuts perfectly
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:16 PM   #12085
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Nr 7 - markp27
Man were you every lucky

How did it go yesterday?
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:19 PM   #12086
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Default Re: Re: News update 200mm International race

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Originally posted by Sow&Steady
That's only because MarkP didn't show!
for those who don't know - Sow is my manager He's the Flavio Briatore of the RC world
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:24 PM   #12087
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can anybody help me
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:31 PM   #12088
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Quote:
Originally posted by FW05R
can anybody help me
It should definately be there - check to see if everything is seated correctly and that the fit on the plastic diff gear is ok, i.e. there is no flash from the molding process preventing a good fit.
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Old 06-05-2004, 11:54 PM   #12089
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you were all correct I figured it out thx everyone for your help
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Old 06-06-2004, 12:02 AM   #12090
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you were all correct I figured it out thx everyone for your help
COOL! Not too much longer to the first test?
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