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Old 06-07-2004, 08:14 AM   #12196
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Default Re: Re: For Glenn Cauley

Quote:
Originally posted by GlennCauley
Hi PMR,

My apologies for the long time in replying.
I have not been on the forum for a few days.

I personally don't use that method for modified flyweights, but others have done it with success. I use the original flyweights (on the pins) and add a small weight to the far end. I don't use the 3 separate flyweights cut from the single clutch shoe.

Regards,
Just cut them in half (split the hole in the center) with an Xacto knife.
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Old 06-07-2004, 08:26 AM   #12197
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I am breaking rear shock shafts. It is breaking right at the end of the threads, and I am holding the end of the threads with the wire cutting portion of needle nose pliers.
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:09 AM   #12198
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Default Re: Hi all !

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Originally posted by GlennCauley
Sorry for the long time away.
Been busy with work, and went out to practice on the weekend.
We were wondering where you were ...


Quote:
Sow&Steady... sorry to hear about your site being hacked. I was looking for that article about shortening the S710 wheelbase, but did that get removed?
Luckily they didn't do too much damage to the database or maybe they didn't want to do it yet because they probably want to leave a "backdoor" to the site. The site is back up and I hope they were just playing a prank and will not repeat it. Its nearly impossible to protect a website like 3hobby.com due to the nature of "sharing" on the internet ...

To find the article just click on "Topics" in the sidebar link. Find the in the listed topics "Serpent Cars" and then look at the one which says "710 Rebuild: Mods First". Let me know your thoughts ... in private please
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:12 AM   #12199
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Initial D.
I know I'm late.
Happy Birthday!!!
Better late than never.
Must be my slow servos again.
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:22 AM   #12200
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Sow&Steady,

Those pictures that I uploaded on 3hobby.com is the Serpent F180 prototype.
It's a 1/8 scale.
I don't think they have plans to make a 1/10 version.
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:32 AM   #12201
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
I am breaking rear shock shafts. It is breaking right at the end of the threads, and I am holding the end of the threads with the wire cutting portion of needle nose pliers.
That is possibly your problem. The shaft is rotating as you thread on the end ball and the cutter is cutting into the thread.

What I do is put some tissue paper or a thin piece of paper of some description around the shaft and grip it with the needle nose pliers (flat smooth area) real tight. You shouldnt have any problems with marking the shaft or breaking them after doing it that way.
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Old 06-07-2004, 09:51 AM   #12202
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
That is possibly your problem. The shaft is rotating as you thread on the end ball and the cutter is cutting into the thread.

What I do is put some tissue paper or a thin piece of paper of some description around the shaft and grip it with the needle nose pliers (flat smooth area) real tight. You shouldnt have any problems with marking the shaft or breaking them after doing it that way.
Have you tried Pyramids shock mod by grinding the end caps thinner? I crashed couple of time after the shock mod and it held up pretty good.
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:46 AM   #12203
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Quote:
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Sow&Steady,

Those pictures that I uploaded on 3hobby.com is the Serpent F180 prototype.
It's a 1/8 scale.
I don't think they have plans to make a 1/10 version.
PSI Racing ... really? I must have missed this fact! When I look at the pictures I must say I did notice from the rear pictures that they had lay-down serpent shocks with yellow springs. I'll go over and place this info in!

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2004, 10:53 AM   #12204
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Have you tried Pyramids shock mod by grinding the end caps thinner? I crashed couple of time after the shock mod and it held up pretty good.
Hey check it out. I just added some grub screws into the ends of the shoes... What a difference. I also did the front shock mod and they still hold on like mad. The shocks now move around a lot more than before. My motor SCREAMS like a bad out of hell. WOW
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:26 AM   #12205
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Have you tried Pyramids shock mod by grinding the end caps thinner? I crashed couple of time after the shock mod and it held up pretty good.
Not yet. Never had any problems with the shock before. But I agree that thinner end caps definately hold. The Yokomo ones are only half the size of the Serpent ones and never had any problems with them. They took some serious pounding on our tight twisty island track (curbs at around 2" height - just launch the car).
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Old 06-07-2004, 02:58 PM   #12206
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Talking Another tuning question for Master D

Well, it looks like my tuning skills are getting better, but I still have a couple of issues to sort out.

What I have now is the following: start the engine from cold and I have to blip the throttle a bit until the engine will run without stalling. Then, when it is upto temp (approx 65-70C) it will run for about 50 seconds with a decreasing rev count eventually stalling - this was as Josh described in the team trinity website.
If I then press the throttle quick the engine will stall - I have to blip it a few times until the engine cleans itself out, then I can pull away.
At this point the engine will at first four stroke for the first lap, but once upto temp will run cleanly and the temp goes no higher than 100 C.
But when I lift off the engine revs remain high for a couple of seconds - a sign of being to lean, I though? Also when I come back into the pits after a hard run, the engine temp doesn't drop much below 88C at idle, but if I do the pinch method, then the engine slowly increases in speed and eventually dies after about 5-6 seconds - but this is a sign of being too rich
After the engine has idled for a while, I again need to blip the throttle to clean it out before trying to pull away or else the engine will stall, as it four strokes.

Could it be then, that I have to richen the LSN and lean the HSN? Any help would be appreciated.

thanks guys, Mark.
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:02 PM   #12207
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What exactly is this shock mod you are talking about? Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:02 PM   #12208
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Default JP FX

Man this motor is a monster! I started my on track run-in session today @ about 80 C - the motor was a little hesitent, but showed lots of potential, as soon as I started to lean it out a little (HSN) and got the temp upto 90 C the motor turned into a monster It is so fast, I was missing my braking points by miles and going into the flat flick I had to make some very quick "emergency" manouvers not to end up in the fence

Goodness only knows how fast this thing will be once I get it fully run-in and tuned up!

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:07 PM   #12209
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Default Re: Re: Re: Mach international

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
WEll, I don't know if I would have won without running out of fuel. It would have been a close battle though.
Looks like a pretty good battle between you guys and looking at the lap times graph, as you mentioned, Rick was very consistent.
Congratulations on your 2nd place! :nod_

Quote:
Shoot Rene????? Nah, don't think so
D, this ring-power-thing has gone too far
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Old 06-07-2004, 03:12 PM   #12210
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Mach international

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
Fastest laps:
Rick: 16.539
Julius: 16.517
The legendary Gilles Villeneuve was a happy man if he'd had a good scrap in a race and came home with the fastest lap.....wining wasn't so important for him - he just wanted to be the fastest on the track (slightly conradictory, but I can also appreciate his point).
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