Serpent 710
Originally posted by kreidel
The two smaller tracks I race at dont really have any sweepers. I drove a guys 710 with a oneway and thought about trying it out but I am used to driving in deeper onpower and this permits me to use a different line so I have more room and less people around me. I drive the big tracks with the oneway for sure, they say it's hard to switch back and forth since the driving is different but I don't mind. I have been fairly sucessful at the small tracks with using the solid axle up front so I will give your setup a try. Is there another setup you use for your front ball diff?
The two smaller tracks I race at dont really have any sweepers. I drove a guys 710 with a oneway and thought about trying it out but I am used to driving in deeper onpower and this permits me to use a different line so I have more room and less people around me. I drive the big tracks with the oneway for sure, they say it's hard to switch back and forth since the driving is different but I don't mind. I have been fairly sucessful at the small tracks with using the solid axle up front so I will give your setup a try. Is there another setup you use for your front ball diff?
For the front ball diff, the same setup as per the front solid was fine except I thought I changed to all around 40 shore tires instead of using softer front. Then I started playing around with a different setup. That too worked out pretty well on small and medium size tracks.
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Suspension geometry Front:
Downstops: -1mm
Set-up ride height: 6mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -1.5 degree
Camber Right: -1.5 degree
Track-width: 199mm
Toe-in: -2.0 degree (Toe-out)
Caster setting (mm in front): 1mm
Roll-center position upper arm (mm): 0 mm under
Upstop (mm): None
Suspension geometry Rear:
Downstops: 6mm
Set-up ride height: 7mm (Actual ride height !)
Camber Left: -3.5 degree
Camber Right: -3.0 degree
Toe-in: +2.0 degree
Track-width: 200 mm
Roll-center position upper: UTI
Roll-center position lower: LT
DRS arm position (low-mid-up): Level
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 1st hole
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: yellow
Oil: 35W
Holes: 4 x 1.2 mm
Cilinder type: aluminum
Shock-tower position: 2nd hole
Lower shock position: outside
Anti-roll bar front:
Thickness: Stock
Position: 0 degree (flat)
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: standard
Position: 0 mm from the end of bar
Position on lower arm: outside
Tires Front:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Tires Rear:
Make: SpeedMind Dishwheels
Hardness Left: 40 shore
Hardness Right: 40 shore
Diameter: 62mm
Wear in 5 min. Left:
Wear in 5 min. Right:
Transmission:
Pinion 1st: 16T
Pinion 2nd: 21T
Gear 1st: 61T
Gear 2nd: 57T
Front axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Medium (when hot)
Rear axle:
Type: adjustable diff
Diff. setting: Light (when hot)
Aerodynamics:
Body: Mazda 6
Wing: Standard
Gurney strip: -
Engine and pipe:
Engine: NovaMax 5 port
Version: P5
Head shims: 0.4mm
Glowplug: 6TF
Pipe: RDLogic (7.2 mm inline)
Header: Novarossi (short inline manifold)
Length: Approx 88 mm
Fuel: 25% Model Technic
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I used a little more droop due tot he track being bumpy. I tried playing with 4 x 1.2 mm hole shocks with 35wt oil and yellow springs. It works quite OK for our bumpy tracks. Sometimes it makes it too bouncy especially with the problem I had in the rear ball diff outdrive. Perhaps I will try 40wt or even 50wt with 5 x 1.2 mm holes like our friends in Holland and see how it goes.
Originally posted by Pyramid
Just read the article.. I think it is great for that impact (which I`m not aware of as I never owned one). I`m wondering if the battery could not be taken out like most of current car nowdays? Thats quite a lot of works in order to be able to do the charging procedure faster in my opinion (unless the battery could not get out easly as nowdays cars).. and still involving removing one lead and plug the charger lead. What is the different with using extension cord coming right out from the receiver and connected directly to the battery pack? still the same 2 step procedure, take out and plug into the charger.
But hey... those article are from 2002 with a very nice on off switch that I never knew it existance. I believe he also did write tips on installing an on/off switch to the S710.. why dont you get an on/off switch with charging lead option instead? this way you will have only 1 step to charge your battery which is just plug that charger lead in
Just read the article.. I think it is great for that impact (which I`m not aware of as I never owned one). I`m wondering if the battery could not be taken out like most of current car nowdays? Thats quite a lot of works in order to be able to do the charging procedure faster in my opinion (unless the battery could not get out easly as nowdays cars).. and still involving removing one lead and plug the charger lead. What is the different with using extension cord coming right out from the receiver and connected directly to the battery pack? still the same 2 step procedure, take out and plug into the charger.
But hey... those article are from 2002 with a very nice on off switch that I never knew it existance. I believe he also did write tips on installing an on/off switch to the S710.. why dont you get an on/off switch with charging lead option instead? this way you will have only 1 step to charge your battery which is just plug that charger lead in
I think I am loosing my technical abilities...
My poor job will suffer...
Originally posted by InitialD
I was referring to step 9.2 on page 29...
I was referring to step 9.2 on page 29...

I believe you're trying to increase the idle screw in order not to make your engine die due to the rich LSN setting. Decrease the idle screw and lean the LSN. I believe the problem will go away.
my engine skills are now way behind everything else - too much time spent with the Surikarn
Originally posted by hudy
im sorry but the new kyosho touring car will be the car to beat I was going to buy this car but the V one RRR looks very good
im sorry but the new kyosho touring car will be the car to beat I was going to buy this car but the V one RRR looks very good
That's an ivitation from an old man, not a challenge to arms.
Originally posted by rwisejr
Ahhh now i know who bought the last one !!!!!!!!!! Now I have to wait till they get more.
Ahhh now i know who bought the last one !!!!!!!!!! Now I have to wait till they get more.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Uhmm ... I only ordered ONE Hudy tool this time .. so it must be Mark and D then
Uhmm ... I only ordered ONE Hudy tool this time .. so it must be Mark and D then
Ummm, I think Golfinger is blaming the 3 of us for the 15 or so extra pages on this thread. Not about cleaning up the stock at rcmushroom !
Talking about swiping the stock
, somebody comes back home from time to time to bring back the loot to UK ! No wonder we're having stock problems with items like tires and Serpent parts ! Racers in UK are having a wonderful time I guess...
Originally posted by markp27
Ehm, my brain is going - which problem did I have
Ehm, my brain is going - which problem did I have
Perhaps too much radiowaves...You mentioned that your 2nd speed engagement was not constant...
Originally posted by hudy
I think that the 710 has earned a new name "glass car" this motherfucker breaks if you blow air at it very weak plastic and parts I sold mine for 50 dollars at the track very dissapointed
I think that the 710 has earned a new name "glass car" this motherfucker breaks if you blow air at it very weak plastic and parts I sold mine for 50 dollars at the track very dissapointed
You must be rich to buy a $350+ car and sell it for only $50.
That's a $300+ loss.
Did you have the upgraded parts?
Originally posted by InitialD
It's not even Monday and the brain is already mushy?
Perhaps too much radiowaves...
You mentioned that your 2nd speed engagement was not constant...
It's not even Monday and the brain is already mushy?
Perhaps too much radiowaves...You mentioned that your 2nd speed engagement was not constant...
plush the shock that my boss has left the project
now I'm responsible.The 2nd speed was simply that I had the screws too loose - the 2nd gear came in too early. I'll be rebuilding it tonight and have a closer inspection, though
Originally posted by B4
Sorry i actually ordered three of them as my sons race as well. Watch the ordering system when i placed my order they where in stock, however i got an email today from them to say that they could only supply two.
Sorry i actually ordered three of them as my sons race as well. Watch the ordering system when i placed my order they where in stock, however i got an email today from them to say that they could only supply two.
Originally posted by PSI Racing
What did you hit to break your car?
You must be rich to buy a $350+ car and sell it for only $50.
That's a $300+ loss.
Did you have the upgraded parts?
What did you hit to break your car?
You must be rich to buy a $350+ car and sell it for only $50.
That's a $300+ loss.
Did you have the upgraded parts?
Originally posted by markp27
But with it being a glass car, he probably had to sweep the bits up off the track - not much worth in a load of old broken up glass
But with it being a glass car, he probably had to sweep the bits up off the track - not much worth in a load of old broken up glass
Maybe he wouldn't of had to sweep up all that glass.
I'm glad that my 710 wasn't made out of glass.



