R/C Tech Forums - Serpent 710

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- - Serpent 710 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/27070-serpent-710-a.html)

what do you get when you cross a serpent 835 and a 710?
one of australias top racers for 235mm has developed his own car. which is neither tourer or 235mm it's a mix have a look at the thread i created for it

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=38393

it's a excellent car. worth your while to see this.

Quote:

Originally posted by Marcos.S710
sorry to hear that ! that sucks!

by the way i miss out in a few forims i bought a house andd i have been moving!!:cry:

Did you get a nice house? Congrats on the move.

Ok, wife out for the whole day ;)... Serpent 710 very very dirty ... VERY

Took out electronics and engine --------------->

and dropped it in the DISHWASHER :eek:

Great outcome!

Finished drying out with hair drier and now I have to strip it and see what's up with the bearings. I might have to give them further cleaning before oiling

I'll give this tip to Martha Stewart:lol:

Quote:

Originally posted by serpentpro28
pmr you can use any 12 rear motor and for the pipe rd logics turbo outlaw pipe works,just make it sure ur getting the one had a wider header some header hits the side belt,goodluck'

PMR, Just check at the local track that they dont sanction the races as if they do, then you will not be allowed to race with an 'Outlaw' pipe.

Re: 4mm ceramic balls

Quote:

Originally posted by cox049
I just bought some to give it a try. I anyone is interested they can be checked out here :

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=3188173817&rd

Let us know the outcome once you tested it out ! :nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
it's a excellent car. worth your while to see this.

Thanks Venom. I think somebody (Alistair) already posted the Mirage info here sometime back.:nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by cox049
and dropped it in the DISHWASHER :eek:

:eek:

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
It probably was screaming for about 5 seconds. What a way to begin the life of your new engine!:flaming:

If you had installed a TRS, that would not have happened to you...

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Are the .12 Novarossi connecting rods(Ibelieve they only sell one?) at RC-Mushroom the same rod used in the NS12S3?

Yes they are. You can even buy RB or NovaMega conrods. They are the same. Their prices are the only difference ! :lol:

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
One thing I noticed was that if I slammed on the breaks the car would do a complete 180. I'm pretty sure the car isn't tweaked?? I followed the steps in the faq page. Then setup the car on my Hudy Station.

You cannot set the brakes and let the rear wheels lock. Not with a oneway front. You need to tone down the brakes a little to the extent that the rear wheels do not lock. So your driving style needs to change. You need to slow down much earlier.

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
What I'm looking for is if I lift the car from the center of the chassis I'm looking to see if one wheel lifts off the ground before the other, correct? If so, both front and back lift equally on my car??:weird: Could it be anything else?

When you do the lifting thing say for example in the rear, put the front part of the car on a the Hudy blocks or on something solid to lift up the front wheels off from the ground and suspend the front suspension. Adjust the shock collars appropriately. Before that, check your shock lenghts to see if they are equal length left and right. Also, droop should be set equal left and right. Tire also same diameter left and right. I notice that the tires out of the box need not necessarily come with the same size. So, that's something you need to check too.

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I think I better go through my car and check the clutch and such after reving the engine that hard having to keep the car from moving by holding it down onto the ground and closing the exaust off with my foot. Let me know what you guys think.

I think it should be OK. Take out the engine and check to see the bushings. I hope you checked that there were no foreign particles and metal shavings in the engine before you broke the engine in.

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks Venom. I think somebody (Alistair) already posted the Mirage info here sometime back.:nod:

nah this is a total article. a little bit like a "how to" as it talks about each section and what was required to make the mirage.

www.rcunderground.net under "sample articles" or just click on the big http://www.rcunderground.net/text%20...eredyellow.gif banner on the site. www.rcunderground.net

Ya, I take apart all my new engines and clean and inspect them before reassembly. Did the lifting method with the opposite end of the car on the Hudy blocks.
I was just thinking that "D". If I only had the damn TRS on there!:lol: Lesson well learned. I have never ran a TRS in the past and have never had a problem. Well, I just had my first incident.:p
Are you talking about the the rod bushings "D"? That I should check those? I was going to anywase.:nod:

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Are the .12 Novarossi connecting rods(Ibelieve they only sell one?) at RC-Mushroom the same rod used in the NS12S3?.:D :nod:

NRS-07601, Competition Conrod
Shits happen... dont worry too much.

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
If I only had the damn TRS on there!:lol: Lesson well learned. I have never ran a TRS in the past and have never had a problem. Well, I just had my first incident.:p

The TRS is not for those cases that you mentioned. It is for those other more serious ones where your battery connector of your Rx pack gets cut off for some reason when you're playing. No other type of failsafe is going to help you in that circumstance except a TRS. Set it just enough that the spring or O ring can pull back the throttle servo to the neutral possition on loss of power supply. You need not make it too strong. Else, you strain the throttle / brake servo severely and use a lot of current from your receiver pack.

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Are you talking about the the rod bushings "D"? That I should check those? I was going to anywase.:nod:

Yes, the bronze bushings. :nod: When you take the circular clip off from the side of the piston to take out and inspect the rod bushing on the top inside the piston, make sure you install these circular clips back in properly or change to new ones if you find it suspect. I had a nasty incident the other time where the clip jumped out and scratched the piston and piston liner ! :cry:

Quote:

Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Well it stopped raining today so I rushed home so that I could start breaking in my NS12S3 in my 710. I rushed and grabbed all my things and headed outside. Pre heat engine to 240 degrees turn on M8 and crank engine over on start box. Fires right up. But stupid me in my panic to start breaking it in forgot to turn on the power on my 710!!!:cry: :flaming: Engine fires right up and within a split second screams to the moon!! The throttle was wide open!:rolleyes: So I grabbed the car and put the exaust on my shoe to kill the engine. It probably was screaming for about 5 seconds. What a way to begin the life of your new engine!:flaming:
I let it cool down, turned on the reciever and fired it up again.:blush: Ran a couple of tanks through the engine letting the engine cool down between tanks. I don't think I caused any serious damage as the piston still gets jammed up at the top of stroke if the engine is any cooler than 180.:p A good idea would probably be to change the rod after I'm down completely breaking in the engine and have run about a gallon of fuel through it.
Are the .12 Novarossi connecting rods(Ibelieve they only sell one?) at RC-Mushroom the same rod used in the NS12S3?
Running the car the around my driveway fairly slowly it seemed to respond quite well even with the stock tires and dirty driveway(got one pebble stuck between the rear belt and pulley):blush: One thing I noticed was that if I slammed on the breaks the car would do a complete 180. I'm pretty sure the car isn't tweaked?? I followed the steps in the faq page. Then setup the car on my Hudy Station.
Do me favour and just go over the tweak thing with me on more time.:D What I'm looking for is if I lift the car from the center of the chassis I'm looking to see if one wheel lifts off the ground before the other, correct? If so, both front and back lift equally on my car??:weird: Could it be anything else?
I think I better go through my car and check the clutch and such after reving the engine that hard having to keep the car from moving by holding it down onto the ground and closing the exaust off with my foot. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. Just when I thought I wouldn't make a stupid rookie mistake like that:rolleyes: :blush: I have never done that with all the other RC vehicles I've had and I had to go and do it my pride and joy!:flaming: Well, all I have to say is if this engine craps out prematurely I'm going to go and by myself a Novamaxx or something rank like that.:D :nod:

em.... why didn't you just return the throttle to idle position??:confused:

Quote:

Originally posted by Fire
em.... why didn't you just return the throttle to idle position??:confused:

I guess when you're panicked, the first thing that comes to mind is to shut the engine down. Been there, done that before...

Quote:

Originally posted by InitialD
Pyramid, I could not find that part number. I assume from the part number our turbuckles are 50 mm? :confused: All that is listed from the Yokomo website is as below;

:eek: :eek: funny, those 50mm is kind of regular item I order on those TRF414 era... until now since it fits the 710 nicely.