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Old 03-01-2004, 08:49 PM   #5011
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
I just snapped my front shock piston today.
In case you are comfortable with the idea, please visits the following pages

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=9688

or direct to

http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
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Old 03-01-2004, 09:20 PM   #5012
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Just read through those tips for the 710. Those are some good ideas. I drove my 710 for the first time last saturday and was perplexed by the lack of steering. Looks like I have to work on the diff some.

It also seemed to me that the steering block causes the wheels to steering faster in one direction than the other. Is there a fix for that as well?
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:20 PM   #5013
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Quote:
Originally posted by Surge
Just read through those tips for the 710. Those are some good ideas. I drove my 710 for the first time last saturday and was perplexed by the lack of steering. Looks like I have to work on the diff some.
The car understeers and drives easy out of the box. I think partly the fault of the kit tires. Are you using them? The rear tires seemed a little soft. Try and get some 40 shore tires in the front and back. Or even 37 front and 40 rear which is even better to balance out uneven wear in the front and rear.

You might even go with a more angled / steep rear shock by using 2nd hole on the shock tower. Let us know how it turns out.

Quote:
Originally posted by Surge
It also seemed to me that the steering block causes the wheels to steering faster in one direction than the other. Is there a fix for that as well?
Shortened the steering rod linkage connecting the steering servo to the servo saver. Manual suggest 44.5 mm. Try 39 to 40 mm. You may have to trim the balljoints and cut the rod linkage as well.

I posted this sometime back;

I cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.

As for the plastic, I trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.



This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.

Also, I made the servo horn on the steering servo at 90 degrees to the servo linkage instead of 90 degrees to the servo casing at neutral.
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:26 PM   #5014
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
In case you are comfortable with the idea, please visits the following pages

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publmem.asp?pid=9688

or direct to

http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
Pyramid thanks for the link. Im still not quite sure how to modify the shock position the way you mentioned. From the pictures its hard to tell what exactly to trim off and not trim off. Do you have a before pic and after pic that is more detailed so I can see the difference what the differences are? Thanks

BTW who makes those orange rims on one of the pics?
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:47 PM   #5015
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
Do you have a before pic and after pic that is more detailed so I can see the difference what the differences are? Thanks
The shock caps are thinner ! You can see in the picture where the shock is on the car. The side of the shock cap facing the shock tower is sliced to make it thinner.

Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
BTW who makes those orange rims on one of the pics?
Those are GQ tires.
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Old 03-01-2004, 10:47 PM   #5016
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GQ tires makes those orange wheels
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:12 PM   #5017
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After the shock modification did anyone still were able to break the shaft? Want to know how much more sturdy the shock pistons are after the modification.
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:18 PM   #5018
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
GQ tires makes those orange wheels
Where can I get those GQ tires online?
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:30 PM   #5019
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Yes, I'd like to know a little more about this shock modification and how strong it is as well. Just wondering if Juluis and "D" did this shock mod or something else? I heard someone post here that they installed 6mm spacer and then put the shock on the rear of the tower. How did that work out and did it make the tower any weaker like stated in the the above article? Thanks. I just want to know all the things I have to do to the car before I get it this week that way I only have to do the mods once and then put the car together! Anybody else ever machine out there chassis for extra belt clearance? Does it weaken the chassis or is it still plenyty strong? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:45 PM   #5020
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Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
I heard someone post here that they installed 6mm spacer and then put the shock on the rear of the tower. How did that work out and did it make the tower any weaker like stated in the the above article? Thanks.
I did not do this shock mod. When I built the car, I put the shock tower forward with a 6 mm spacer but didn't find the need to now. I currently run it at stock position and have not found any problem. Perhaps I don't hit the walls or the curbs.

After mounting it, common sense will tell you that the front shock tower will only be supported by the two spacers.

Quote:
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Anybody else ever machine out there chassis for extra belt clearance? Does it weaken the chassis or is it still plenyty strong? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.
I'm still running the stock kit front belt. I think it has gone through 10 liters of fuel ! There's recently a crack in the middle of the belt as a result of a sharp pebble. The belt rubs very slightly on the chassis once it is slightly loose after some time running and the colour of the belt will turn to silver as a result of that very slight rubbing on the chassis. But my personal opinion is that you should not worry over it. I think it's a lot of work just to mill that chassis section out unless you own a workshop. Just run the car as is. My personal opinion.
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:47 PM   #5021
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.
Hey D,

Is there a reason you made yours 39.5 ~40mm instead of 42mm like it says in the 710 FAQ that markp27 have posted??

I went with that measurement and seem to be fine..........I just want to know if there is another gain by make it shorter?
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:48 PM   #5022
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
GQ tires makes those orange wheels
Hey Pit!!


Congrats on your 1K post!!
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:54 PM   #5023
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Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
Is there a reason you made yours 39.5 ~40mm instead of 42mm like it says in the 710 FAQ that markp27 have posted??
I think the 42 mm figure was given by Julius if I'm not mistaken.

Quote:
Originally posted by PUNISHER
I went with that measurement and seem to be fine..........I just want to know if there is another gain by make it shorter?
Perhaps it has got to do with the type / brand of servo...

I find that the shorter linkage not only gave me equal steering throw left and right, but it also avoids my servo arm to move further back towards the tank when turning right and causing the linkage to rub the front belt as a result. I think shorter is better. My 2 cents.
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:58 PM   #5024
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AAhhhh.....ok

Thanks for the info!
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:13 AM   #5025
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Thanks "D". I'll probably need to do something with the front shocks as I'm sure I'm no where near as good of a driver as you are "D"!
I don't quite understand that shock mod that is explained in that link?? What excatly did he do? Did he shave 1mm off of the plastic end in that picture or did he do something else?? Please help me out with this one as I don't want to be busting shock shafts!! Thanks.
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