Serpent 710
#3002
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Well I might as well be on it too!
Almost had the money to buy my new 710, but the bloody tax man has taken it instead!!!!!!!!
Well I might as well be on it too!
Almost had the money to buy my new 710, but the bloody tax man has taken it instead!!!!!!!!
Diesel, its that time of year for most of us. I'm dreading seeing my tax bill so I'm skipping the country!
#3003
Originally posted by Pit-racer
When I get the 710 what are the things I should know b4 starting to build? Are the book settings and assembly instru. all o.k.?
100th page!
When I get the 710 what are the things I should know b4 starting to build? Are the book settings and assembly instru. all o.k.?
100th page!
#3005
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Pit-racer ... the book settings are OK from my tests.
Pit-racer ... the book settings are OK from my tests.
#3006
okay I hate to get technical here but ackerman is not bump steer, moving the arms up or down in the same location will change how the front toe reacts through the suspension movement, to change ackerman you need to change mounting positions, like shorter or longer arms, this also would require a new servo saver to compensate for the different angle created between the two side.. the 710 has fixed ackerman.. but you can adjust bump steer by moving the arm mount form top to bottom, and in on and off road bump steer is usually never considered a good thing....
#3007
Originally posted by ammdrew
okay I hate to get technical here but ackerman is not bump steer, moving the arms up or down in the same location will change how the front toe reacts through the suspension movement, to change ackerman you need to change mounting positions, like shorter or longer arms, this also would require a new servo saver to compensate for the different angle created between the two side.. the 710 has fixed ackerman.. but you can adjust bump steer by moving the arm mount form top to bottom, and in on and off road bump steer is usually never considered a good thing....
okay I hate to get technical here but ackerman is not bump steer, moving the arms up or down in the same location will change how the front toe reacts through the suspension movement, to change ackerman you need to change mounting positions, like shorter or longer arms, this also would require a new servo saver to compensate for the different angle created between the two side.. the 710 has fixed ackerman.. but you can adjust bump steer by moving the arm mount form top to bottom, and in on and off road bump steer is usually never considered a good thing....
#3008
Originally posted by Julius
I know it is supplied with every 1st speed pinion though.
I know it is supplied with every 1st speed pinion though.
#3009
Originally posted by InitialD
The only thing I would want to worry about and check is the steering linkage. Some say using the measurement on the manual suites them (44.5 mm) but others like myself will need to trim the ball cups as well as the linkage rod to shorten it down to 39.5 mm so that you get equal left and right steering throw.
The only thing I would want to worry about and check is the steering linkage. Some say using the measurement on the manual suites them (44.5 mm) but others like myself will need to trim the ball cups as well as the linkage rod to shorten it down to 39.5 mm so that you get equal left and right steering throw.
#3010
Originally posted by crashed_1
I'd go with the 39.5mm or more. I tried the 44.5 but the rod hits the servo horn real bad.
I'd go with the 39.5mm or more. I tried the 44.5 but the rod hits the servo horn real bad.
#3011
Rene / Julius or anybody,
Is 35wt shock oil with 4 holes the same as 40wt shock oil with 5 holes in terms of shock damping?
How does the 5 hole shock (the fifth hole being 1.2 mm in diameter if I'm not mistaken) throw into the equation? Why was this done? Thanks.
Is 35wt shock oil with 4 holes the same as 40wt shock oil with 5 holes in terms of shock damping?
How does the 5 hole shock (the fifth hole being 1.2 mm in diameter if I'm not mistaken) throw into the equation? Why was this done? Thanks.
#3012
Originally posted by crashed_1
I'd go with the 39.5mm or more. I tried the 44.5 but the rod hits the servo horn real bad.
I'd go with the 39.5mm or more. I tried the 44.5 but the rod hits the servo horn real bad.
Had it by the book and it was good enough but last night I finally put the car on the Hudy set-up system and confirmed what D has been trying to re-interate in this forum.
Clearly, going by the book, there's more steering throw on one side compared to the other. Cut the linkage down to 39.5!
#3013
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I thought you mentioned that you followed the manual measurements and was a perfect fit with the KO servos? So you've shortened yours too?
Ummm, I thought you mentioned that you followed the manual measurements and was a perfect fit with the KO servos? So you've shortened yours too?
#3014
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 783
Originally posted by InitialD
This is what Bruno Heeramans has got to say about Ackerman...
A large Ackermann angle (ball joints above the servo saver) gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in a different direction. A smaller Ackermann angle (ball joints below the servo saver) on the other hand can give you more aggressive steering, aspecially entering the corners. However, it isn't guaranteed that the front won't wash out now and then. Neither is a smooth cornering radius. It can be useful an high-traction tracks, if your car tends to oversteer in the middle of the corners, and you'd like a little more turn-in. Not to mention the psychological impact on the person driving right in front of you when you're entering corners.
This is what Bruno Heeramans has got to say about Ackerman...
A large Ackermann angle (ball joints above the servo saver) gives you smooth, predictable steering. You'll be able to round the corners nicely without all four tires trying to force the car in a different direction. A smaller Ackermann angle (ball joints below the servo saver) on the other hand can give you more aggressive steering, aspecially entering the corners. However, it isn't guaranteed that the front won't wash out now and then. Neither is a smooth cornering radius. It can be useful an high-traction tracks, if your car tends to oversteer in the middle of the corners, and you'd like a little more turn-in. Not to mention the psychological impact on the person driving right in front of you when you're entering corners.
Larger ackerman will make you turns smoother than the smaller one... yes I agree.
But smooth is not means tight.. right?
10 deg. split I just think is too much if we want to take tight corner in a faster manner. Initial coming in (off throttle) the car is very smooth, when partial throttle applied the (my) car is off line so much. If full throtle applied seems like we never have enough steering.
First, I thought it was not enough traction on outside tire but not much change as I softer the front spring and even using lower shore. Release the front bar do help much but off throttle oversteer sometimes came up.
Could be my wrong setup though...
D, have you ever heard any optional part to change this ackerman thingy ?
#3015
Originally posted by crashed_1
Using 44.5mm on a KO servo gives perfect centering...no subtrimming and stuff...just the linkage scrubbing the horns quite badly on a full throw...using the shorter alternative solves the scrubbing and saves the servo from working overtime...
Using 44.5mm on a KO servo gives perfect centering...no subtrimming and stuff...just the linkage scrubbing the horns quite badly on a full throw...using the shorter alternative solves the scrubbing and saves the servo from working overtime...
I still had more throw on one side compared to the other though. Its not obvious looking at it but on the Hudy you could read the graduations and it clearly shows the difference from one side to the other.



