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Old 01-09-2004, 08:10 PM   #2851
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There is someone here a while ago said that he cut the engine mount 2mm lower... Please post a picture on your throttle linkage showing the carburator also from the side with the fuel tank installed. Thank for your time

PS: I did mine at 1mm which I think already the lowest possible (reversing the tank`s bracket already).. I want to do it at 2mm if it ispossible.
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Old 01-09-2004, 08:13 PM   #2852
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
JFC, although mine was not completely set-up yet (as on my HUDY that is), I just couldn't resist starting the car. So today I ran 3 tanks on the bench and then 2 more on the track because its a new engine.

Don't change the pinion and in fact I would also recommend not modding your flyweights just yet. This car is FAST and the pick-up and punch is there.

The only thing I did different to the manual is to do what D did with his for the clutch bell. My floating end-play is minimal and the clutch nut set to 0.9mm.

I'm nervous just thinking what it'll be like after the engine is fully tuned, its rich now!
Heehee The day was yesterday. But 2 tanks only coz the other "Zero Fighters" were already there on the track...so u know, i have to go before they test the kit durability

Yea, i didn't change the 1st pinion. It so punchy(well after retuning the LSN 1/2 turn)..i used to drive on the richer side for RS5 STS
Now i can attack the corner and still on the 2nd gear...damn so cool

My only problem...the clutch bell thing how do u set it to 0.9mm clutch nut....digital caliper?? Pls ignore my ignorance to high tech pricey tools
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Old 01-10-2004, 12:40 AM   #2853
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Default MOTOR MOUNTS

Pyramid,

I cut my motor mounts by .080" which is almost exactly 2mm.

I will try and get a picture of everything for you if you wish.

I actually had no problem with anything else and the Serpent starter box now works perfect since the wheel touches more of the surface of the flywheel as well as lowere the CG of the engine.

I had a machinist do it at work so it was free, however, I feel it's the best route to go since it's accurate.

Now I just need an aluminum front lower bumper plate and all should be well !!!!!!!

Oh yeah, and a front ball diff ?????????????
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Old 01-10-2004, 03:58 AM   #2854
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech
My only problem...the clutch bell thing how do u set it to 0.9mm clutch nut....digital caliper?? Pls ignore my ignorance to high tech pricey tools
Go take a quick look on ebay now, a good decent digital caliper cost less then $25 US shipped.........me too thought those fancy LCD digital caliper might cost as much as a new 710....but good thing we have EBAY and internet in this world....I've got 1 from them and used it to adjust my centax on my impulse, impact and 835......never get anything/number wrong....i even like to use it to measure paper or money thickness when I am bore doing RC
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Old 01-10-2004, 04:44 AM   #2855
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Guys,

I managed to finally have a run with my car today and plan to race it tomorrow. After getting the tweak sorted and and the car to stop from understeering, was a combination of tyres and assisted by spring and piston adjustment it is heading in the right direction. I am still waiting for my new radio and i also have my usual tyres etc in this shipment as well so i am not expecting huge things... Will keep you posted.

SN
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Old 01-10-2004, 12:16 PM   #2856
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Default Re: MOTOR MOUNTS

Quote:
Originally posted by JABRONI
Pyramid,

I cut my motor mounts by .080" which is almost exactly 2mm.

I will try and get a picture of everything for you if you wish.

I actually had no problem with anything else and the Serpent starter box now works perfect since the wheel touches more of the surface of the flywheel as well as lowere the CG of the engine.

I had a machinist do it at work so it was free, however, I feel it's the best route to go since it's accurate.

Now I just need an aluminum front lower bumper plate and all should be well !!!!!!!

Oh yeah, and a front ball diff ?????????????
Is't the long belt touching the exhaust curb?
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Old 01-10-2004, 05:18 PM   #2857
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Default Re: Re: MOTOR MOUNTS

Quote:
Originally posted by RobbyDV
Is't the long belt touching the exhaust curb?
This could happen even using standard motor mount, especially when using new NRS-52607 combo pipe. But no big deal.

I think what pyramid pointing is the throttle barrel/piston that hit the tank bracket.
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Old 01-10-2004, 06:31 PM   #2858
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Default Re: Re: Re: MOTOR MOUNTS

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
This could happen even using standard motor mount, especially when using new NRS-52607 combo pipe. But no big deal.

I think what pyramid pointing is the throttle barrel/piston that hit the tank bracket.
I cut a notch out of the tank bracket to allow the carb ballend to clear it better. I havent lowered the engine mounts yet, waiting to go back to work to do it.

There is heaps of room between the carb arm and the tamk bracket. And remember we can rotate the ballend on the carb arm to get more clearance.
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Old 01-10-2004, 09:47 PM   #2859
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rookie are nats at a track you run on? If so I may have to be extra carefull in planning to allow me to come and race with you.. after all I would say we have been typing and exchanging ideas for four or so years now might as well see if we can wreck crap on the track too...
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Old 01-11-2004, 04:18 AM   #2860
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Default First Race Update!

Due to my engine not wanting to play, i was unable to do anymore then 11 laps during my three heats. During this time the car started to improve with just minor changes...

From my awful amount of track time today, The car does repond well to just minor changes...

I do have a question on rims? Is there an offset you are suppose to use? I used a 0 offset rim for some rubber tires and i now have a mark on the front hubs??????

SN
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Old 01-11-2004, 04:55 AM   #2861
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Default Re: First Race Update!

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
I do have a question on rims? Is there an offset you are suppose to use? I used a 0 offset rim for some rubber tires and i now have a mark on the front hubs??????

SN
The problem is that there is no uniform definition on offset. So eventhough different rims claim to be 0 offset they might well differ.

Where is the mark on the hubs
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:08 AM   #2862
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Default Re: First Race Update!

Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
From my awful amount of track time today, The car does repond well to just minor changes...

I do have a question on rims? Is there an offset you are suppose to use? I used a 0 offset rim for some rubber tires and i now have a mark on the front hubs??????

SN
Julius was right. Not every mfg that stated they have 0 offset is true. In my experience the only rims that would not rubs your ball end or even knuckle is the EVI type(by impulse) and the GQ tyres.

As for the sensitive respond due to minor changes.. I felt the other way around except the front camber and roll center change.
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:42 AM   #2863
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Quote:
Originally posted by jfc_tech

My only problem...the clutch bell thing how do u set it to 0.9mm clutch nut....digital caliper?? Pls ignore my ignorance to high tech pricey tools
JFC, I use a digital caliper for the initial clutch nut setting and like Rookie Solara says you can get these digital calipers cheap on eBay these days.

Its well worth buying, I use it regularly even to check tyre diameters before a run, after a run to check for tyre wear on a particular track and also when I'm truing.

When building or rebuilding the car, I use it to check screw sizes and lengths. Most importantly, when you service your centax, you'll need it to check the internal diameters of the thrust bearing end washers.

GET ONE!
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:48 AM   #2864
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Default Pinion Gear Spacer

I've changed my gearing a few times and I can tell the small/thin spacer that was sent as a supplement to the kit is not going to last very long. after two gear changes it is starting to get chewed up.

Anyone know of a part # and where to get one??
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Old 01-11-2004, 12:30 PM   #2865
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Quote:
JABRONI I've changed my gearing a few times and I can tell the small/thin spacer that was sent as a supplement to the kit is not going to last very long. after two gear changes it is starting to get chewed up.
I didn't think it was meant to be for permanent use... According to the supplement; 1. Assemble the gears and the clutch housing. Use the thin shim between the two gears. Use the supplied pinion gear tools to tighten the gears.
2. Dissassemble the parts again. Clean everything thoroughly and put it together again. Follow this procedure with every new gear you put on. "Once the gears have 'settled' it is not neccessary to do it anymore"

What have the rest of you guys done with the shim...Left it in, or took it out?
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