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Old 01-02-2004, 06:10 AM   #2476
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Any engine that will suite your budget will be fine. Even OS engine is good. Slap it with an outlaw inline Shark pipe and see the car flying on the straights ! Remember, no point having too much power when you cannot control it.

According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..

Do you guys run into a problem with this?...

Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
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Old 01-02-2004, 06:17 AM   #2477
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Originally posted by fastharry
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..

Do you guys run into a problem with this?...

Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
Most people running the shark pipes are not in the USA and therefor being ROAR legal isnt needed.
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Old 01-02-2004, 06:57 AM   #2478
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady

Another good way to share your experiences is to have it on your personal website ... and post the url here.
That's what I've done with my Impulse, hopefully it should'nt be too long before the 710 joins it.

http://www.markanddebbie.net

When will your site be up and running Sow&Steady?
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Old 01-02-2004, 08:16 AM   #2479
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Originally posted by InitialD
Thanks to Goldfinger ! He was the one who discovered the problem and posted it here.

D, please enlight me on who cut what. I think I missed that tip.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:17 AM   #2480
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Default DRS feature

how does that work?

Last edited by Marcos.J; 01-02-2004 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:42 AM   #2481
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r12:
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:45 AM   #2482
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diesel Racer
That's what I've done with my Impulse, hopefully it should'nt be too long before the 710 joins it.

http://www.markanddebbie.net

When will your site be up and running Sow&Steady?
Yes, I've surfed there ... its a good one. I've been looking for other personal sites like your since. Well done Mark!

To be honest, I got the idea (where people should have a personal site on their cars and experiences) AFTER surfing your site.

Me? Hmmm ... need to learn a bit of html first and then find a host. I see that this site (RCTech) has a great little hosting (http://www.rctech.net/pages/advertising.shtml ) deal for personal sites ... everyone should look into it.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:47 AM   #2483
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
D, please enlight me on who cut what. I think I missed that tip.
Goldfinger was one of the first to assemble his 710. He mentioned that in order to get the left and right steering throw equal, you need to shorten the linkage from 44.5 mm to 39.5 mm. This is what I did and I'm very well pleased with what I did !



Ummm, on a side note, I've repeated this a few times already with pics and all. Sorry but I wonder what would happen if I lumped all my replies in one post. People will never get anything !
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:48 AM   #2484
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Quote:
Originally posted by FTSPEEDWAY
r12:
The DRS is controlled bump steer. If the track rod in front of the rear arm ( the plastic piece the third pivot ball is attached to) is parelell (sp) to the drive shaft toe will stay the same under suspension movement. If you make the track rod above or below the parelell(sp) line you will either have a decrease or increase in toe as the suspension compresses and extracts. I tried the DRS above the axle at Full Throttle Speedway in Kissimmee Florida and i was very pleased with the results i was able to take the sweeper even faster and i was still able to accelerate hard out of the sharper turns.
thanks dave
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:55 AM   #2485
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Default Re: DRS feature

Quote:
Originally posted by r12 schumacher
how does that work?http://www.mytsn.com/publ/psimage.aspi?pid=9250&psid=3
Why? Are you trying to put this on the R12?

It works like this. There are 3 settings. Neutral (pivot ball level with the rear toe-in linkage), Above (pivot ball above the rear toe-in linkage) and Below (pivot ball below the rear toe-in linkage).

With the Above setting, the rear toes out during acceleration and during cornering. This improves high speed steering. During braking, the rear toes in. Therefore this gives more stable braking. Vice versa for Below setting.
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Old 01-02-2004, 10:01 AM   #2486
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
To be honest, I got the idea (where people should have a personal site on their cars and experiences) AFTER surfing your site.
Yup, agreed that having a personal site is good but I think the idea of a forum is better as it promotes better interaction amongst racers especially in an interesting and complicated (not to mention expensive !) hobby of ours.

A personal site is more of one party giving and the other party receiving. A forum such as this encourages a free flow of ideas exchanged and opinions expressed.

Of course a personal site eliminates one having to repeat what you have mentioned again and again...
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Old 01-02-2004, 10:02 AM   #2487
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
According to the website,theShark pipes aren't ROAR legal..

Do you guys run into a problem with this?...

Also,Are the pipes THAT good?.....And I presume,only get the outlaw version?(esp since they are not legal anyway?>>)
Yeah, we don't run any legal stuff here...

There is actually a 5.2 mm version of the Shark pipe but it's not the inline type. Don't know if this is legal though.

One thing about their performance and the other thing is their durability !
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Old 01-02-2004, 10:10 AM   #2488
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Goldfinger was one of the first to assemble his 710. He mentioned that in order to get the left and right steering throw equal, you need to shorten the linkage from 44.5 mm to 39.5 mm. This is what I did and I'm very well pleased with what I did !



Ummm, on a side note, I've repeated this a few times already with pics and all. Sorry but I wonder what would happen if I lumped all my replies in one post. People will never get anything !
D, do you allso cut the metal or only the plastic?
Sorry don't know the english names....
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Old 01-02-2004, 10:30 AM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally posted by Thaasman
D, do you allso cut the metal or only the plastic?
Sorry don't know the english names....
I cut both the metal and the plastic !

I cut the metal (the stock rod linkage) down to 17 mm. Stock lenght of the rod linkage is 23 mm from tip to tip.

As for the plastic, I trimmed the length of the ball cups. The picture attached shows the top one being the original (and uncut) and the bottom one is the one that was trimmed.

This combo gives the total length of the ball cups and rod linkage assembly as 39.5 mm instead of 44.5 mm.
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Old 01-02-2004, 10:38 AM   #2490
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Default Re: Re: DRS feature

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Why? Are you trying to put this on the R12?

It works like this. There are 3 settings. Neutral (pivot ball level with the rear toe-in linkage), Above (pivot ball above the rear toe-in linkage) and Below (pivot ball below the rear toe-in linkage).

With the Above setting, the rear toes out during acceleration and during cornering. This improves high speed steering. During braking, the rear toes in. Therefore this gives more stable braking. Vice versa for Below setting.
thanks for the explanation , im not putting it on the r12! jst re-searching thinking of switching back to serpent
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