Thanks Julius. I'll try the Mugen super grease. BTW what type of grease you use?
Dear Jag, Diff lube means the grease for lubricating differencial ball and thrust plate.

I use racing grease from my mountainbike.
It's heat resitant and very sticky. It alos eliminates a lot of dust
The grease for the diff(espcially in the rear) needs to be very thick and sticky. Also a lot of pro drivers use the grease which is used to grease the attachement piece from a big truck. It's very very sticky. Works the best, but it's very hard to get. I got it from a pro driver cause he had more than enough

This weekend my 710 developed a problem. My front belt started to loose some teeth, so I replaced it with a new one from the pro belt set. However, it keeps running off the front diff pulley, and driving a 710 with just rear wheel drive is rather tricky....

Any idea how to fix this? I've been using the diff for months now, and never had any problem with it, until now.


(Upon close inspection, I discovered that my chassis is very slightly bent. If I put it on the hudy blocks it wobbles very slightly... Can this cause those kinds of problems?? Is the new team chassis any good, in case I decide to replace the chassis altogether?)

Had the same problem some months back...still haven't figured out why but found a good remedy by Art Carbonell...

Use the flange from the oneway pulley and hold it down with an o-rings. I'd grease the o-ring a little with AE GreenSlime coz it'll rub a little with the diff bearings. Run it for a while and eventually the o-ring will will flatten itself and seat nicely...

I wasn't sure which items you were refering to. I don't use grease on the diff balls, just the thrust bearing.

DS doesn't the sticky grease cause MORE dust to stick to the diff? Or is the MTB grease made to resist dust? Just curious, but which MTB grease do you use? There is a pro bike shop near my place and I'd like to check it out but not knowing much about mountain bikes, not sure what grease to ask for. Just ask for chain grease?

Thanks in advance.

I'm now driving on a short track for an upcoming competition and have been looking for a good clutch setup. The track has a really long straight but then after that, it's a bunch of small straight pieces linked together by a lot of chicanes. There is very little space to really get the car up to speed. Right now I'm using the 17/22T with 61/56T. The car drives fine but it's a bit too mild. It can be quite hard for me to catch up to other cars. How can I get that sudden punch needed for a shorter technical track? I'm using the yellow shoe, 1.8 spring and set it to 1.2-1.3mm with a 0.5mm clutch gap. What did Julius do to your clutch at the Euros?

It's called racing grease from Putoline. Don't know if it's availible in your country.
It's used for everything in the bike. Like the suspension, the shifters, and steering linkage.
It's really made to elimenate dust. Because a mountainbike could get a bit dirty. It's really amazing stuff. Normally if you have a loose rear diff you can feel the diff balls ''grind'' against the diffplates. With this grease it's just smooth. And after a ful race day there is still grease on the balls. With normal grease, i reff the engine once and i can just see the grease fly out of the diff.
but if you can buy it, buy it. Everyone on the track is amazed on how smooth my diffs work. And it really makes a difference in fast sweeping corners.

A lot of chicanes? Do you have a pic of the track? Without knowing the actual length and the layout, I'd guess that in a lap, less than 10% of the time is spent on the straight.

Like Julius said, the punch needs to come from proper clutch setting. The gears you are using are fine. Hard to believe but true.

The clutch setting you gave above is missing a few parameters ... how are your flyweights set? Stock? between the pins with grub screws? Have you looked at Glenn Cauley's article on clutch settings at myTSN?

He took it apart and re-assembled it and then tuned the car as a whole. I am ashamed to say that until today I have not touched the clutch, I have 2 710s and 4 sets of clutches all assembled on 4 engines. The engine with Julius' clutch is in its box and I just took a quick look ... from the outside I can see (and recall) that he used yellow shoes and also another yellow shoe cut into flyweights. The rest would need the Meister himself to describe.

What's a good price for the Serpent 710 kit (latest version) in US

Awww c'mon, what an anti climax. I'm sure there's more...

The pics of the track online don't show much but you are close. It's more like 17 percent on the main straight followed by a 75 degree turn then more straight, (~35 percent of the main straight in length) then lots of turns. I'll try to grab a few photos if I make it out to the track this weekend.

Oh right. How could I forget? I am using the the stock flyweights. They lack punch but their response is better. I've read Glen's article and do have a set of weighted flyweights but when using them on this track the car takes a little too much time to get moving. The stock makes the car move right away, abeit slower than I would like.

I have used the in-between-pins non-weighted flyweights. The car has a smoother feel but it doesn't seem to make a difference in lap times.

Yellow shoes as flyweights? Interesting. Do I need to shave them down a bit? Did you use them between pins or on pins?

Try here :- http://www.gasrccar.com/

Every peak has a trough!

No, seriously, I have been extremely busy at work since the Euros, away every weekend bar one. there has been two races since and all I did was just race the spare car, clean the other one and then race that. The two "good-ish" engine used at the Euros were removed and now using a rebuilt Mega and the OS-Tz.

I will do a review of the Tz at 3Hobby and then some videos and then *maybe* I'll dismantle the clutch. The reason I didn't touch the clutch, apart from being lazy and short of time, is that the final Nationals race is another huge track like the Euros one ... so this is my "secret weapon" if something goes wrong with the other engines.

So you're nearly there because that's usually how they behave i.e. for the same engine tune, if the clutch response is fast, the punch is less and vice versa. I would use the one that has better punch and then tune the engine to give best low-end. Don't forget the tyres ...

I wasn't watching too closely because the week long Euros gave me aggro every day, mainly my engines. Julius definitely shaved them and used them ON the pins.