Ok, thanks.

I agree as well. I beleive the FAQ is going to be hard to improve on since it is already great! But I know for me the above would be an excellent tool. Also perhaps adding some info that the instructions do not. For example the three things i found most difficult was setting up the rear diff (a graphic of how to put a screw driver or allen wrenches on the shafts and then turn the pulley would be good. its a little confusing when someone explains it to you. then when they show you its like, duh i should have known that.) Also perhaps telling them that some of the instructions are wrong. again when putting the rear diff together when it asked for the bearing that goes in the diff the instructions showed a bearing with a shield. But the one that goes in does NOT have a shield. I lost a few hours trying to figure out where the bearing was and then i thought i lost it.

I got a little lost in the shocks only because even though it said to smooth out the plastic pieces it should have said to sand them down once it was installed and before you put them in. What i did was put the plastic pieces and eclips on the rod and then put it in my dremmel turned it on and then just lightly put sand paper to it until i could take the plastic piece and have it slide into the shock without any resistance.

last was the engine. Now i know this is true for probably everybody but the centax clutch is confusing. I know we have alot of guides out there to help out but sometimes they are confusing. I'll tell you what helped me. A guy at my local track told me that the endplay is up to what you want (5.mm - .7mm). I didnt know this. I was totoally confused and didnt know how we got to those numbers since the book just says .5 -.7 and doesnt say its up to you to decide. with .5 being less agressive. So what he did was take out a feeler guage and opened up the .5mm and slide it into the top of the gear and added shims until the feeler guage fit snugly into the space between the top of the gear and the shim. Then for clutch gap we just added shims until we could just pull it out from the clutch shoe but still being able to have it spin freely.

Also perhaps some tips on setups for different tracks. Tight track vs open tracks. high grip vs low grip, etc.

I think with tips on the above and what Darth said would make the FAQ go from Awesome to totally awesome!

Just my 2 cents. Sorry for rambling on guys. I have yet to run the car but i hope to this weekend.

Don't give in to the "dark side" Mark.

Does serpent have a part # for the L shaped battery that fits in the 710? I have one but i bought it from someone and i dont know the part #, if any. Thanks.

The pre-made one Serpent has (801173) is pretty low amp (730 mAH). Mytsn staes it's for the 705/835 but the 710 uses the same one.

I suggest if you can get the newer GP (950 mAH) or Sanyo (900 mAH) AAA cells, then make one or ask someone else who could do a nice job on it. I prefer spot welding them if you can.

Or try ebay for a good price.

Marks, rubber needs to sit on the grove (if you move back the rubber, you will se a grove. I have a carb in my hands at the moment and if i pull the slider all the way out, i see some metal part (barrel)
It is very important to set the servo in order to open the barrel just the amount needed to have a full open carb, and no more than that, because you will have air leaks

Other than that, your barrel is ok

Paolo
Serpent USA

)No photos but a good compression/carburation combo should result in a "brand new plug" (wich means that the pluga after you use it, should be like new, shiny, strigth, etc. etc)

Here are some tips about that:
Compression (shims). You know if the compression is ok or not by looking at the wire of the plug. If the wire is pushed inside, or bent (but still working), you are a little bit too compressed and need to add shims (0.05 or 0.1) When you are totally ofF ( your glowplug will explode (all metal parts of the glowplug in the ceiling of the piston and combustion chamber........no good )

)No photos but a good compression/carburation combo should result in a "brand new plug" (wich means that the pluga after you use it, should be like new, shiny, strigth, etc. etc)

Here are some tips about that:
Compression (shims). You know if the compression is ok or not by looking at the wire of the plug. If the wire is pushed inside, or bent (but still working), you are a little bit too compressed and need to add shims (0.05 or 0.1) When you are totally of (wich means that you have too much compression) your glowplug will explode (all metal parts of the glowplug in the ceiling of the piston and combustion chamber........no good )
If on the other side the wire is pulled, you need to take some shims
A prefect compresiion is a straigth glowplug (like when is new)

Carburation:
You know about the carburation also reading the plug
Too wet, brown wire means is too rich.
Dull, not shiny wire means too lean


Again, brand new look means OK

Sorry for the poor explanation, i hope this can help

Paolo

Thanks for your answers, Paolo - I'm learning all the time - more stuff for the latest FAQ....maybe I should have a Paolo section

Thank you. I will probably get the low amp one now since i want to race this sunday and wont have time to make one. But i will look into getting the items to make the better one.

Guys the FAQ update will take a little longer than I had planned.

I'm trying to sort my engines out for the race at the weekend - and GF wants to go rollerblading No rollerblading, no racing license DANG!

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, use your imagination... Cut short the rollerblading trip. Fake an accident or something.

I have a lot to learn still Master!

Yeah... Just don't go breaking your back rollerblading old man...

You'll have brittle bones, too, one day