Serpent 710
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 826
Originally posted by Brett.w
i kind of had the same problem yesterday, for no reason all the botom end went, i changed the plug, checked the clutch and did the pinch test every thing seemed ok so i am kinda stumped! but when it did pick up it was real good.
i kind of had the same problem yesterday, for no reason all the botom end went, i changed the plug, checked the clutch and did the pinch test every thing seemed ok so i am kinda stumped! but when it did pick up it was real good.
Airleaking.........that's the problem. So far i had same problem in 1 engine. The 2 cams that you use to fix the carb at the crankcase in some case are some tents too long, and so even if you tigth the screw all the way down, still the carb is not really tigth and some air leaks from there (i had 1 engine that with the screw all the way, the carb was loose :weird
To solve this, you need to take out the 2 cams, grind a little bit and then the problem is solved.
Anyway, if there is no airleaking and the engine is running good and progressively is becoming lean, i normally rich the HSN (wich since is the "main" needle, it will also rich the bottom at the same time.
About compression, at sea level with 16% you should use 0.3 mm. Anyway, reading the plug is the best way for me
Another tip is the oring inside the crankcase (there is an internal oring inside the crank where the carb is located. I have had some bad experience with the internal oring cause the fit is so tigth that in several cases when you install the carb you strip the oring and the black parts goes in the crankshaft making a mess (not a big problem, is easy to solve, but anyway). I am using my engines without the oring (i use only the oring that is in the carb and no problem at all.
Paolo
Originally posted by lagnaf

What about the real thing?
Now I realy dont know how to turn the disk

What about the real thing?
Now I realy dont know how to turn the disk
Seriously, I never try to install it the other way around so I couldn't give any comments which directions will be able clean itself, simply, because I tought the AMG brake is the one that should throw all dirts toward front of the car/engine which makes you able to clean them out after.
Originally posted by alucard13
I am planning on racing this weekend and want to get a new pipe. I dont need anything special. Just something that fits without any modifications. Any suggestions with links that can deliver by friday? Thanx guys
My engine is a L3 from Nova Rossi.
I am planning on racing this weekend and want to get a new pipe. I dont need anything special. Just something that fits without any modifications. Any suggestions with links that can deliver by friday? Thanx guys

My engine is a L3 from Nova Rossi.
Originally posted by markp27
What is missing in the FAQ which you would like to see.
I'm spending the rainy day today updating the FAQ.
Let me know what you'd like to see.
Cheers, Mark.
What is missing in the FAQ which you would like to see.
I'm spending the rainy day today updating the FAQ.
Let me know what you'd like to see.
Cheers, Mark.
Donno if it's relevant, but maybe you can put in the quick steps of removing/changing diffs, belts, removing engine, radio tray, etc.
I'm thinking at beginner level...
Cheers...
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Donno if it's relevant, but maybe you can put in the quick steps of removing/changing diffs, belts, removing engine, radio tray, etc.
I'm thinking at beginner level...
Donno if it's relevant, but maybe you can put in the quick steps of removing/changing diffs, belts, removing engine, radio tray, etc.
I'm thinking at beginner level...
Besides, I believe a lot of people out there and team drivers have their own method of doing things and it'll be great if all their tricks of dissassembling and maintenance is known.
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Hi Mark,
Donno if it's relevant, but maybe you can put in the quick steps of removing/changing diffs, belts, removing engine, radio tray, etc.
I'm thinking at beginner level...
Cheers...
Hi Mark,
Donno if it's relevant, but maybe you can put in the quick steps of removing/changing diffs, belts, removing engine, radio tray, etc.
I'm thinking at beginner level...
Cheers...
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, I agree. That's pretty handy to have. For me, I sometimes still forget how or what to take out (for instance replacing belts) as I rarely need to do maintenance on the 710.
Yes, I agree. That's pretty handy to have. For me, I sometimes still forget how or what to take out (for instance replacing belts) as I rarely need to do maintenance on the 710.
That's why you keep needing my dirt-filter® upgrades 
Besides, I believe a lot of people out there and team drivers have their own method of doing things and it'll be great if all their tricks of dissassembling and maintenance is known.
Originally posted by markp27
That's why you keep needing my dirt-filter® upgrades
That's why you keep needing my dirt-filter® upgrades
Sorry, I don't rely on them. WYSIWYG.
Besides, you kep giving crippled versions that ore often than not, it turns out looking even dirtier than it actually is.
Originally posted by markp27
You'll have to kill me to get your filthy paws on Rene's secrets
You'll have to kill me to get your filthy paws on Rene's secrets
Not keeping everything for yourself eh?
I see that the evil RING has corrupted you.
That's why sometimes it's good to just watch how these pros wrench their cars. There's bound to be a trick or two that you can pick up.
Originally posted by markp27
You need to stretch out with your feelings - don't trust your eyes!!!
You need to stretch out with your feelings - don't trust your eyes!!!
Sometimes I try using the Force. Since I am a Sith Lord, I tend to give in to my anger and frustrations. And end up destroying too many parts...
Thanks for the answers - I'll try the shims down to 0.3 first.
Also I've noticed something with the rubber seal on the carb slider shown in the picture below:

When I pull the carb slider out, I see some of the barrel at the location marked with the red circle in the picture, i.e. the end of the rubber seal isn't attached to the slider and won't form a seal (from what I can see).
Should this not be completely sealed? Do I need to place the end of the rubber seal under the silver servo attachment ring?
Also I've noticed something with the rubber seal on the carb slider shown in the picture below:

When I pull the carb slider out, I see some of the barrel at the location marked with the red circle in the picture, i.e. the end of the rubber seal isn't attached to the slider and won't form a seal (from what I can see).
Should this not be completely sealed? Do I need to place the end of the rubber seal under the silver servo attachment ring?
Last edited by markp27; 04-10-2005 at 11:37 PM.
Originally posted by Paolo M
About compression, at sea level with 16% you should use 0.3 mm. Anyway, reading the plug is the best way for me
About compression, at sea level with 16% you should use 0.3 mm. Anyway, reading the plug is the best way for me
I can't read a plug at the moment, as I'm not sure what a good one should look like
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Ah...
Sometimes I try using the Force. Since I am a Sith Lord, I tend to give in to my anger and frustrations. And end up destroying too many parts...
Ah...
Sometimes I try using the Force. Since I am a Sith Lord, I tend to give in to my anger and frustrations. And end up destroying too many parts...
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 478
From: Veenendaal, The Netherlands
Originally posted by markp27
The links will be fixed this time
Adding the articles is a lot more work, though - this won't happen in this revision, but maybe for version 3.
I've added some more things which I think are useful, like the drive ratio table and Julius' Luxembourg setup sheet - these are things which are useful to have at the track.
Any further suggestions?
The links will be fixed this time

Adding the articles is a lot more work, though - this won't happen in this revision, but maybe for version 3.
I've added some more things which I think are useful, like the drive ratio table and Julius' Luxembourg setup sheet - these are things which are useful to have at the track.
Any further suggestions?
I also thing the setup book realy is easy on saying 'change the tires' that's not what i want to do because it costs to mutch for me.... Also, maybe something on the airo package of the car? (body, and hols?)
Anyone interested in buying a used 710 with only 1 tank of fuel used. Also have extra kit used as spare parts....about 90% of the parts are unused including the chassis. Nothing wrong with the car. You can ask Dinotw on these forums.
Max MF modified engine, Sanwa WRX steering, Sanwa WRX throttle, AMB Transponder, Ko Propo power switch, Integy setup system, Black Magic starter box, 4 Hudy tools, Droop guage, and some other parts I cant think of right now. Besides the stock kit I bought additional new clutch shoe and flywheel which are still new unopened.
Reason im selling is I have moved to a new hobby. My Evolution 8
Max MF modified engine, Sanwa WRX steering, Sanwa WRX throttle, AMB Transponder, Ko Propo power switch, Integy setup system, Black Magic starter box, 4 Hudy tools, Droop guage, and some other parts I cant think of right now. Besides the stock kit I bought additional new clutch shoe and flywheel which are still new unopened.
Reason im selling is I have moved to a new hobby. My Evolution 8
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks for the answers - I'll try the shims down to 0.3 first.
Also I've noticed something with the rubber seal on the carb slider shown in the picture below:

When I pull the carb slider out, I see some of the barrel at the location marked with the red circle in the picture, i.e. the end of the rubber seal isn't attached to the slider and won't form a seal (from what I can see).
Should this not be completely sealed? Do I need to place the end of the rubber seal under the silver servo attachment ring?
Thanks for the answers - I'll try the shims down to 0.3 first.
Also I've noticed something with the rubber seal on the carb slider shown in the picture below:

When I pull the carb slider out, I see some of the barrel at the location marked with the red circle in the picture, i.e. the end of the rubber seal isn't attached to the slider and won't form a seal (from what I can see).
Should this not be completely sealed? Do I need to place the end of the rubber seal under the silver servo attachment ring?
The rubber cap is there to stop dust etc getting into the carb. There are orings sealing the throtle barrel.



