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Old 11-11-2011, 04:40 AM   #1381
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Wassup guys!

Plastic diff gears? ftw! That's what happens when Swauger isn't testing for Mugen. I bet he could shred those in one tank!

Not enough turn in? What body are you guys running?

Just remember...

The pros don't have problems like some of us mere mortals. They can easily identify and work around any issues on a new car and make it perform. What we see as a design/manufacturing flaw is nothing more than a minor inconvinience for the pros. They see it, fix it (by any means necessary) and the problem disappears. We end up struggling with it and eventually one of us figures it out - or a pro takes pitty on us and gives us the fix.

It's too bad that nitro has declined as much as it has in the U.S. I miss the "old crew" that did all the grunt work to figure things out make our lives easier.
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/km-mtx5...diff-gear-set/

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Old 11-11-2011, 08:36 AM   #1382
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Max as well, i will attend the biggest event of the year here in HK on Nov 5/6 an i will race with my MRX/MTX 5, hope to have something to post back here
ah...back from the race, finally i have both class in B main and it's a joy to race with all racers from the top. about the MTX5, no more strip gear at the event, car run smooth with a little loose rear end at start. below are the report from the web.

http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/kurzbuc...en/#more-48923

a group photo

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Old 11-11-2011, 01:30 PM   #1383
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also here :-)

http://mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/t2227_t2228e.htm

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Old 11-12-2011, 06:44 AM   #1384
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it seems liek the only gear that strips is the large crown gears right? the gear strips where the pin sits in??

if this is the only place it is stripping you could just change the large crown gears and use the steel ones leaving the other gears and shafts as the lighter original parts....or are people stripping the teeth of the gears also?
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:02 AM   #1385
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The funny thing is that they are going from one extreme (plastic gears) to the other extreme (sleel gears). Insn't there a compromise with 7075 aluminium gears?
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:47 AM   #1386
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My guess is dissimilar materials would make for a poor combo in a diff, I suspect the plastics would chew quickly working against metal.


Titanium would be nice, but then you can bet it would be expensive.

Why not alloy?, my guess is cost, cast plastic can ok, as can cast steel, cast alloy is traditionally soft, you'd need machined alloy gears, which I'd guess would be expensive, like machined titanium, nice but would you pay for them?.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:43 PM   #1387
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My guess is dissimilar materials would make for a poor combo in a diff, I suspect the plastics would chew quickly working against metal.


Titanium would be nice, but then you can bet it would be expensive.

Why not alloy?, my guess is cost, cast plastic can ok, as can cast steel, cast alloy is traditionally soft, you'd need machined alloy gears, which I'd guess would be expensive, like machined titanium, nice but would you pay for them?.
you would only need to buy them once.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:57 PM   #1388
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[QUOTE=TomB;9900705]it seems liek the only gear that strips is the large crown gears right? the gear strips where the pin sits in??

if this is the only place it is stripping you could just change the large crown gears and use the steel ones leaving the other gears and shafts as the lighter original parts....or are people stripping the teeth of the gears also?[/QUOTE

That is the place it goes and it only occurs on the one side of the diff, i shimmed the end float out of that side by using the xray shim which is .3mm as opposed to the mugen one which is .2mm. I ran the car today with this shim in and it was fine
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:10 PM   #1389
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you would only need to buy them once.
Well that is kind of the bad part, cause with alloy my guess is even made with a good grade you would have to replace the gears once or twice a year, the alloy will wear, think of your pinion gears, even hard coated how long do they last?.

And even Titanium would wear, teeth meshing will always wear, hence why steel comes back to being the long option, everything else will wear out at some point a lot sooner.

Really it's why I don't mind the plastic option so much, if they can make them last six months or so, cause last I checked they were about $5 to replace.
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Old 11-12-2011, 11:53 PM   #1390
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i just checked my spare diff and there is no in and out play on my outdrive. also, i remember when i built my diff the pin was very tightly seated in the hole of the outdrive.

Am i right in assuming you only shim the pin out if there is play? I dead set had no play between the pin and outdrive when assembled
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:52 AM   #1391
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i have had mugens sinse mtx2 and hate matanace why take a diff that was unbrakebil an go and do this i have always said you can by a mugen and race it not like some ather brands i hate matince like i spell
car is very good my grandson tell me
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:38 PM   #1392
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Well that is kind of the bad part, cause with alloy my guess is even made with a good grade you would have to replace the gears once or twice a year, the alloy will wear, think of your pinion gears, even hard coated how long do they last?.
The main question is if it is more reliable. If it is a guess if you can finish one race on plastic or know you can race for sure 2 or 3 races on aluminium gears is is a much improvement. Beside that, aluminium is easier to work with than steel, for sure in larger production series.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:49 PM   #1393
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Default Reciever box

How do you like the reciever box ?

Any body did a modification make a little bit harder ( no up n down movements)?

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:50 PM   #1394
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How do you like the reciever box ?

Any body did a modification make a little bit harder ( no up n down movements)?

Thanks.
Being able to flex around is likely a good thing, I known nitro cars are known to create issues with receivers when any vibrations from the car transfer into the radio gear.

Only thing I'm not so keen on is the threads stripped out on two holes on the cover section of mine when building it, using barely any finger tip strength to put the tiny screws in.
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Old 11-13-2011, 11:46 PM   #1395
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Being able to flex around is likely a good thing, I known nitro cars are known to create issues with receivers when any vibrations from the car transfer into the radio gear.

Only thing I'm not so keen on is the threads stripped out on two holes on the cover section of mine when building it, using barely any finger tip strength to put the tiny screws in.
if you have an old busted servo you might find the long servo screws work as a replacement to the stock screws and might create a new thread if they are longer. I haven't tried this but i'm just guessing it might work
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