MTX 5
11-21-2011 | 04:20 PM
#1413
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 676
From: Brisbane
It's an aggressive clutch, flush on the spring nut is a good starting point, it should work like that on most engines, but right now I'm about .20 mm in from flush, I was like a quarter turn more at one point, like in the .30 range, but it started slipping a lot when cold, and not really fully engaging, so it's got a small working range being so aggressive (to be fair I'm not running a real hot motor though).
A-B point, well that is your gap and your end float, you set your gap without the inside bearings fitted, aim for .3-.4mm with stock weights in stock configuration, end float with all bearings should be .1mm, basically no end play but then no binding either.
Keep in mind again though, if you got one of the off drilled end stoppers, you will struggle to get these settings, and it will give you a headache trying to set the clutch.
A-B point, well that is your gap and your end float, you set your gap without the inside bearings fitted, aim for .3-.4mm with stock weights in stock configuration, end float with all bearings should be .1mm, basically no end play but then no binding either.
Keep in mind again though, if you got one of the off drilled end stoppers, you will struggle to get these settings, and it will give you a headache trying to set the clutch.
11-21-2011 | 10:33 PM
#1415
11-22-2011 | 06:44 AM
#1417
11-22-2011 | 09:08 PM
#1418
Grub Screws in Step 3!
Hi
I am just wondering if someone can clarify where the grub screws are spose to go in step three.... the diagram isn't very clear and it talks about a 4x8mm which looks to go into the plastic bumper for droop adjustment. But there is also hole above the bulkhead which the smaller but on hole underneath in aluminium!
Thanxs
I am just wondering if someone can clarify where the grub screws are spose to go in step three.... the diagram isn't very clear and it talks about a 4x8mm which looks to go into the plastic bumper for droop adjustment. But there is also hole above the bulkhead which the smaller but on hole underneath in aluminium!
Thanxs
11-22-2011 | 09:22 PM
#1419
Hi
I am just wondering if someone can clarify where the grub screws are spose to go in step three.... the diagram isn't very clear and it talks about a 4x8mm which looks to go into the plastic bumper for droop adjustment. But there is also hole above the bulkhead which the smaller but on hole underneath in aluminium!
Thanxs
I am just wondering if someone can clarify where the grub screws are spose to go in step three.... the diagram isn't very clear and it talks about a 4x8mm which looks to go into the plastic bumper for droop adjustment. But there is also hole above the bulkhead which the smaller but on hole underneath in aluminium!
Thanxs
11-22-2011 | 10:26 PM
#1420
Thank you for your prompt reply.... Your right after i installed the lower arms and mounted the top cover for the sway bar it all made sense to me.
Have noticed arms are a little tight with the sway bar connected, this is a little different to when i built my MTX3 everything was loose and you had to shim to tighten things up.
Enjoying the build, very impressive Mugen!
11-23-2011 | 07:03 AM
#1421
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 846
Bishop
Thank you for your prompt reply.... Your right after i installed the lower arms and mounted the top cover for the sway bar it all made sense to me.
Have noticed arms are a little tight with the sway bar connected, this is a little different to when i built my MTX3 everything was loose and you had to shim to tighten things up.
Enjoying the build, very impressive Mugen!
Thank you for your prompt reply.... Your right after i installed the lower arms and mounted the top cover for the sway bar it all made sense to me.
Have noticed arms are a little tight with the sway bar connected, this is a little different to when i built my MTX3 everything was loose and you had to shim to tighten things up.
Enjoying the build, very impressive Mugen!
11-23-2011 | 07:14 AM
#1422
The sway bar end links are more the issue if your arms feel they are binding at all, those caps under the arms only need to be a tiny bit tight against the ball links, and the arms suddenly feel like they are binding.
With mine in the end I found you need to allow a little play in those sway links, then everything moves smoothly with the arms in general.
Worst part is actually setting the link heights even, very hard to measure once in place, and you don't want a tweaked bar in your setup.
With mine in the end I found you need to allow a little play in those sway links, then everything moves smoothly with the arms in general.
Worst part is actually setting the link heights even, very hard to measure once in place, and you don't want a tweaked bar in your setup.
11-23-2011 | 06:03 PM
#1423
The sway bar end links are more the issue if your arms feel they are binding at all, those caps under the arms only need to be a tiny bit tight against the ball links, and the arms suddenly feel like they are binding.
With mine in the end I found you need to allow a little play in those sway links, then everything moves smoothly with the arms in general.
Worst part is actually setting the link heights even, very hard to measure once in place, and you don't want a tweaked bar in your setup.
With mine in the end I found you need to allow a little play in those sway links, then everything moves smoothly with the arms in general.
Worst part is actually setting the link heights even, very hard to measure once in place, and you don't want a tweaked bar in your setup.
New issue.... has anyone felt the grub screws in the two speed are too long they push the shoes apart when they are flush with the plastic shoe.
I will keep playing, but it has me stumped!
11-24-2011 | 04:47 AM
#1424
Update:
Been struggling tis arvo with the radio tray... Got it in, but with my Savox 1258TG the servo horn i am using for the steering hits the servo case. I am thinking if i used a longer servo horn i might get enough steering and can use EPA to stop it hitting!
Think i will be visiting LHS tomorrow to see what other horns in can get, or install another brand servo.
Cheers
Been struggling tis arvo with the radio tray... Got it in, but with my Savox 1258TG the servo horn i am using for the steering hits the servo case. I am thinking if i used a longer servo horn i might get enough steering and can use EPA to stop it hitting!
Think i will be visiting LHS tomorrow to see what other horns in can get, or install another brand servo.
Cheers
11-24-2011 | 06:48 AM
#1425
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 846
Your right after i finished the rear end sway bar and saw how free it was i started playing with the caps under the front arms and that free'd it up for me.
New issue.... has anyone felt the grub screws in the two speed are too long they push the shoes apart when they are flush with the plastic shoe.
I will keep playing, but it has me stumped!
New issue.... has anyone felt the grub screws in the two speed are too long they push the shoes apart when they are flush with the plastic shoe.
I will keep playing, but it has me stumped!
i used hpi 3.2mm x 5mm, being .2mm thicker helps to never get loose and ran the shoes with space even when new, just spaced them til they wont fit on the second gear housing and from then backed up 1/4 a turn on each set screw making sure the space on both is the same, works flawless, the transition from first to second gear is perfect constant and by the sound on the engine can be felt! that helps to never strips gears and life of the shoes, but i admit some drivers prefer the kick on the car when 2 speed engages!!!!